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'73 R60/5 Blocking Crankshaft Technique

Removing clutch

Hi Gang,

Made good progress today - my buddy came by and helped me pull the tranny. I received my tools today from Northwoods Airheads and a couple Q's about pulling clutch.

1. Do I need to mark the clutch parts with my paint pen so I put it back the same way it comes out?

2. When I use the (3) bolts to compress the springs, what is the procedure for removing the clutch - It seems the long bolts take the pressure away from the springs and then after removing the remaining (3) bolts, I slowly remove each long bolt so the clutch doesn't spring out suddenly.

Am I on the right track here?
 
Hi Gang,

Made good progress today - my buddy came by and helped me pull the tranny. I received my tools today from Northwoods Airheads and a couple Q's about pulling clutch.

1. Do I need to mark the clutch parts with my paint pen so I put it back the same way it comes out?

Can't hurt!

Kentuvman said:
2. When I use the (3) bolts to compress the springs, what is the procedure for removing the clutch - It seems the long bolts take the pressure away from the springs and then after removing the remaining (3) bolts, I slowly remove each long bolt so the clutch doesn't spring out suddenly.

Am I on the right track here?

You should also have three nuts. The nuts are up against the clutch and the bolts are threaded in minimally. Hold the bolts and loosen the nuts--it's probably a two wrench job. Go a turn on one, then a turn on the next, and a turn on the third releasing pressure gradually. If you can get the long bolts all the way in, they are probably not long enough and there will still be a buncha pressure on the spring when the bolt runs out.
 
and yes, unless you are replacing clutch parts, mark them so they go back together the same as they came out. keeps things balanced.
 
Removing Flywheel

Making progress here . . . removed the clutch and marked everything.

Put flywheel at OT, blocked it up front & removed (5) bolts.

Flywheel doesn't want to come off with my hands.

What's best / safest way to remove it?

Thanks!
 
Thanks, Kurt

I've got a can of PB Blaster - that's a good suggestion.

I read another post and I think I'm going to find a longer brake metal bar, drill 2 holes and use the long bolts (the ones used to take pressure off the clutch) I'll heat & then pull the center of the bar spanning the flywheel. I have a breaker bar I could put under the bar and get more leverage pulling from the center of the flywheel.

If that doesn't work, will there be any damage gently using a couple small pry bars to work around the flywheel?
 
Interesting . . . the Haynes book has a blueprint on how to make a flywheel extracting tool - so I guess I may have a solution now for getting some purchase on removing the flywheel. More news to come.
 

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Success

Flywheel is off.

It was a combination of PB Blaster, a small ball peen hammer, and the bar on previous post.

Now I can move forward to clean the bell housing, R&R the main seal and change the O Ring - there is some oil around the bottom of the oil pump cover.

That's all for now - thanks for all your help!
 
Opps...

I just realized you had already taken a look at my write up. :blush Oh well, take another look! lol
Have fun with your project and remember it will simply lead to another project! How is your front brake? My 1972 front brake is not so good. Then the other day I rode a 1973 R75/5 that has had fairly good care and has about the same miles on it, mid 50,000, wow, that front brake worked nearly as good as a disc. Just goes to show that with the proper set up it can brake to fairly high standards. Gotta work on that.
Regards,
Kurt
 
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