I was able to get my bike into the porch - now able to do some work during the MN winter!
Planning to pull the transmission and do a spline lube, as no baseline as when this was last done. While I'm doing that, I want to pull the clutch and check to see if it's still in spec. In the June 2010 issue of ON magazine, Matthew Parkhouse writes about this subject: on removing the clutch he says "with the earlier style, you're fighting a compressed spring. Remove every other bolt and place some sort of compression set up in their place." In the picture, he's showing a steel bar with a couple faucet handles on it used to compress the clutch plate.
Is this what I'm going to need to do and if so, do I need to make a tool like that or where can I find one?
Since I'll be pulling the clutch, I want to check the main seal and replace it if it's not in top shape. I'll also replace the oil pump "O" ring, then re-torque of the oil pump cover.
In case the main seal is bad - I read 2 ways t block the crankshaft - Matthew Parkhouse writes "I blocked the crank by replacing the alternatior bolt with a different bolt that stood proud about 1/2 inch. Then I replaced the front cover and bolted it down. This eliminated any possibility that the crankshaft would move forward when the flywheel came off."
Oak uses a different technique: "the way to do it is take a piece of wood like a strong 2x2 @3 feet long. Remove the front engine cover. Rest the wood at the FRONT of the alternator rotor. Then securely lash the wood to each cylinder using about 6 bungee cords around each cylinder and wood. With the wood pressing agains the alternator rotor the crankshaft cannot move forward."
Interested in your experience in doing this service and how you did it. If anyone has the tool used to R&R main seal available for loan or sale, let me know - I won't know if I need it until I get the flywheel pulled. This may be several weeks off.
Interested to also know what bolts I should replace - ie. driveshaft & bolts that hold the clutch plate.