• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

R1200R Handlebar Swap?

rapiddog

Barback King
2008 R1200R
Heated Grips

I want to swap the bars out on this bike to a fat bar with a different sweep.
I plan on using ROX risers with the fatbar adapter.

Never had one of these sets apart, though I looked at the ends with the weights removed.
Any advice or insights on what's involved with pulling the grips off, etc.?
 
I've just been through this as part of an R12R bar replacement; discussion and some pics here.

Remove the mirror clamps (I removed the mirrors first so the clamps would be easier to handle; remember that the clutch-side mirror stalk and stalk clamp have left-hand threads) and support the hydraulic reservoirs while you work; I removed the windscreen and used zip ties around the windscreen mount. The switch housing covers are removed with small Torx screws, T10 I think, two on each side. Then the wire connectors are separated. Then the switch housings can be unscrewed (more small Torx fasteners) from the grip assemblies. On the clutch side, the grip is held to the bar with two small self-tapping screws; peel back the inside end rubber and you'll see them. Remove the self-tapping screws and the grip slides off the bar.

On the throttle side, the grip assembly is clamped to the bar; a single larger Torx machine screw tightens the clamp, and is visible when the switch housing cover is removed. Disconnect the wire connectors. Loosen the screw, and the throttle grip assembly slides off.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Brick.
I did see the screws.
Does this mean yuo need to drill and tap the new bars for said screws?
 
I presume the new bars won't have these holes already drilled, so yes, the drilling is up to you. Doing a similar job on an R65 decades ago, I discovered that the small screws are self-tapping and will cut their own threads - you don't need to tap the holes.

When marking your drill point, remember that the location of these grip-mount screws determines the position of the switch pod, and because of the little ridge on the inside face of the grip assembly, the position of the switch pod determines the position of the mirror clamp and the angle of the clutch lever. (On the throttle side, the switch pod clamp allows you to freely set the brake lever angle you wish.) On the clutch side, I assembled things first without drilling; the grip was retained on the bar by the end weight, but the grip could still move around the bar a little. Then I rode and adjusted the mirror clamp until I was certain I had the clutch lever where my hand wanted it. Then I marked and drilled for the grip mount screws.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top