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2003 R1150RT To lube the spline or not to lube the spline

jwadedtx

New member
Hi all,

I purchased a 2003 R1150RT with 27K on it last year. I have been very happy with it and want it to last. That being said I'm tipping in at about 300 LBS and ride reasonably aggressively. Of course the best thing to do would be to lose weight but seeing as I, in essence, ride 2 up all the time I am wondering about if and when I should have the spines lubed. I have a great mechanic who I trust to do the job but I question if and when I need to do it. The bike has 38K on it now and at first I was thinking I would have it done at 40K. I am experiencing no unusual symptoms and have no concerns about the bike. My only real concern is about what I have read regarding spline failure and possible prevention. Any opinions?

Jon
 
every 40-50K is a good idea in general (so asserts PG). Your extra weight probably does not impact spline lube wear. Once your bike starts experiencing symptoms (difficulty downshifting, usually 3 to 2 or 4 to 3), you have only a few thousand miles before full failure happens. And Murphy's Law tells us that will NOT happen anywhere convenient. I'd do it this winter if it was my bike.
 
You can also check the condition of the splines by pulling the starter off and looking into the slot. Tie off the clutch lever, then rotate the clutch disk back and forth with a small tool. The disk and the splines should turn in unison. If not, you have problems.

Here's a youtube video that will give you the idea. He has a small amout of movement.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGg9HvuFzfU&feature=youtu.be
 
There are a few good threads started offering pictorials of the service, take advantage of them here in this forum.
 

Worth watching, no affiliation and haven't tried myself yet. Sounds like the m/c was one with the worst factory defect of mis-aligned engine - transmission to fail drastically and quickly and repeat.
 
Last year I created a pictorial of the entire process of disassembly of the 1150RT. Also included were the locations of all threads I found concerning the same on BMWMOA. I did a search and can not find this thread. Could the moderators assist with this? Search for "A pictorial Spline Lube"
 
Ok, I wonder how hard it would be to replace the hydraulic clutch assembly with a mechanical cable operated system like the 1100's used? I see no advantage to the hydraulic system, NONE!
 
Last year I created a pictorial of the entire process of disassembly of the 1150RT. Also included were the locations of all threads I found concerning the same on BMWMOA. I did a search and can not find this thread. Could the moderators assist with this? Search for "A pictorial Spline Lube"
This:
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?58748-Pictorial-2002-1150RT-Spline-lube
Thanks much for putting together.
Search hint. Use Google "Pictorial-2002-etc site:http://forums.bmwmoa.org"
 
Ok, I wonder how hard it would be to replace the hydraulic clutch assembly with a mechanical cable operated system like the 1100's used? I see no advantage to the hydraulic system, NONE!

it would be hard. very hard. next door to impossible kind of hard.

Take a look at the clutch cable assembly and associated parts in a R1100 parts fiche, and then compare that to the 1150's or 1100S's hydraulic system.
 
A couple days ago when I was working on the starter I had a look at the splines. After tie-wrapping the clutch handle to pulled in, I looked for movement between the hub and aplines. At the clutch plate outer edge I had about 1/16 of an inch of free movement before the splines also moved. This calculates to about 1 degree. I'm assuming this is fine.

Can I ride with piece of mind that all is well?
 
Chris Harris, who prepared the above 5 minute video in his Manchester, NH shop, believes many of the 1100 and 1150 machines have a design defect in the interface between transmission shaft and clutch assembly (3 mm gap), such that the transmission splines do not fully engage. He uses a redesigned clutch plate manufactured by Bruno Sax (http://www.brunos.us) in Canada, which closes that 3 mm distance to achieve full transmission/clutch engagement. Interestingly, he believes those riders like me - who tend not to wind the rpms out in each gear - are more likely to have the spline problem with their bikes than riders who push their machines harder. He says riders who have installed the redesigned non-OEM clutch plate do not have this issue, which is not a function of lubrication, he maintains. Interesting ...
 
Chris Harris, who prepared the above 5 minute video in his Manchester, NH shop, believes many of the 1100 and 1150 machines have a design defect in the interface between transmission shaft and clutch assembly (3 mm gap), such that the transmission splines do not fully engage. He uses a redesigned clutch plate manufactured by Bruno Sax (http://www.brunos.us) in Canada, which closes that 3 mm distance to achieve full transmission/clutch engagement. Interestingly, he believes those riders like me - who tend not to wind the rpms out in each gear - are more likely to have the spline problem with their bikes than riders who push their machines harder. He says riders who have installed the redesigned non-OEM clutch plate do not have this issue, which is not a function of lubrication, he maintains. Interesting ...

about 6 or 7 yrs ago there was a guy in Canada (pretty sure it was not Bruno) that did basically the same thing. he had made up some prototypes, and was offering kits for sale for about $1G. never sold well- as stock parts were less than 1/3 of that, and most prospective buyers (he had posted on Pelicanparts.com's ) didn't see themselves replacing the clutch pack 3+ times.
do you know what Bruno's charging?.. i did not see the items on his website.
 
If there is an alignment problem with the gearbox housing, which does cause spline failure. This clutch disc wont correct it.
 
If there is an alignment problem with the gearbox housing, which does cause spline failure. This clutch disc wont correct it.

True. But misalignment is not the problem this modification addresses. The fact that the shaft only partially sticks into the clutch hub is the issue here. Engaging the entire clutch hub spline has to be better than engaging 80% of that spline.
 
...
Interestingly, he believes those riders like me - who tend not to wind the rpms out in each gear - are more likely to have the spline problem with their bikes than riders who push their machines harder.
...

Interesting video, thanks.

To your point above, riding at high RPMs for any given power output results in a lower torque load than lower RPMs.

For example, 15 HP output at 5200 RPMs takes about 15 lb-ft of engine torque at the transmission input shaft. If you drop to 2600 RPM for that same 15HP the engine has to deliver 30 lb-ft of torque at the input to the transmission. I don't think that's a great reason to keep the bike so wound up but it is the physics of the matter.

As I mentioned above, I've got about one degree of play between the clutch hub and input shaft. Any ideas what the play is on a new hub/shaft?
 
I've got about one degree of play between the clutch hub and input shaft. Any ideas what the play is on a new hub/shaft?
That would be about .008 inch tooth-to-tooth clearance. I'd guess there is maybe .003 tooth clearance (strictly a guess) on a new spline but someone with a spline set could come up with an actual number.

Your spline alignment is presently pretty good obviously. If it was my bike, rather than chance an additional misalignment from dis and re assembly, I'd look into a hypodermic lube of each tooth. It is critical that each surface be lubed yet not get so much in that it would splatter onto the clutch disk. Some experiments with a bent insulin needle and slightly thinned spline lube would be in order first.

Strictly my opinion.;)
 
That would be about .008 inch tooth-to-tooth clearance. I'd guess there is maybe .003 tooth clearance (strictly a guess) on a new spline but someone with a spline set could come up with an actual number.

Your spline alignment is presently pretty good obviously. If it was my bike, rather than chance an additional misalignment from dis and re assembly, I'd look into a hypodermic lube of each tooth. It is critical that each surface be lubed yet not get so much in that it would splatter onto the clutch disk. Some experiments with a bent insulin needle and slightly thinned spline lube would be in order first.

Strictly my opinion.;)

The hypodermic lube has been on my radar screen. This is probably an inexperienced question, but how could I create a misalignment by taking it apart and putting it back together. Won't the alignment pins insure that it is assembled in the same alignment?
 
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