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Thread: R100/7 Electrical starting issue - any advice?

  1. #16
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    Jimmy Lee... sent you a PM.
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  2. #17
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Panasonic LC-X1228P

    Jimmy Lee,

    Check this one:
    http://www.tnrbattery.com/lc-x1228p-...sonic-battery/ $90 + shipping

    The Panasonic 28AH with nut & bolt terminals can also be found if you search other places online. Be careful of some pages that offer "Panasonic replacement" - those are cheaper and not as well made. I've been using the Panasonic LC-X1228P battery in two airheads for over 10 years. They are giving me 6 years of solid life and then I am replacing them as a preventive maintenance item even though they are showing no sign of failure. Yes, it is true that these type of AGM battery do occasionally have a sudden failure.

    The Panasonic is a good fit; just slightly smaller than the OEM wet cell battery but just a hair taller than OEM. The terminals fit to the battery cables, and don't require adapters that the Odyssey needs.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  3. #18
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    Much has been shared about batteries, so here's two more cents. '74 R90S, and various other airheads in the past, have always used lead acid batteries. Way back got ahold of large battery tray so a garden tractor battery fit. I get'em at the Battery Store, type U-1R, terminals reversed, just over thirty bucks. Can buy'm at wallystore, but check the cold cranking amps at 0 degrees, should be around 300amps. I'm frugal, not cheap, so I gladly pay the thirty bucks. Last one was five years old and still cranked pretty good, but there was a spring sale. It's a tight fit, each to their own meds, have a prosperous new year.
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  4. #19
    Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
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    Seems like batteries are almost as clear cut as oil**, which tires are the best, or maybe, whether points top an electronic ignition (lots of opinions about what right looks like)!

    I used a variety of lead acid batteries over the years. I went through a period where I used Sears DieHard lawn tractor batteries (you have to slightly expand the battery carrier). My last lead acid battery was the BMW OEM brand, the name of which escapes me at the moment.

    I've been living in areas where I can ride 9-10 months of the year and often (like today) get the odd ride in even during December and January when there isn't snow.

    But, when it gets below 40 degrees, my bike gets hard to start. Especially if it has been sitting in a windy parking lot for 8 hours or in the unheated garage for a week or more.

    Over time, I've gone through the electrics and charging, cleaned everything up, replaced some key sections of wire, and added some extra grounds. I also sent my starter to Motorrad Elektric for an overhaul. Plus, I almost always kept the bike on the Battery Tender in between rides.

    In the cold weather (below 40 degrees), I was never happy with the lead acid batteries. Cranked slow and didn't seem to have much staying power. I always felt the cause of the cold weather starting challenge was because the engine wasn't cranking fast enough.

    So, in the summer of 2011, after having read much discussion over several years about the "new battery technology" (and most importantly, with prices dropping), I got the PC 680. I think it has been worth the expense. I think it is better in the cold weather than the lead acid batteries ever were. Also, during the summer, when I was riding nearly every day, I found I was only putting the Battery Tender on once a week (versus every day). I don't have any graphs, or measurements to conclusively prove the PC 680 is better. Plus, there are so many variables, especially with riding style, that I don't think anyone can say one type of battery is definitively better. I'm looking forward to the reported 6-7 year life and I'm hoping not to experience the sudden total failure from an internal break. I totally understand about the cost factor. In my case, there a limited funds available for an unlimited list of upgrades. But, I was never happy with the lead acid battery, and so far, am pleased with the PC 680.

    Either way, with a new-to-you bike that has some electrical mysteries, getting a fresh battery (of any type) seems like a good first step.

    Cheers,

    Barron

    ** We are making progress in the oil discussion - thanks Kurt.

  5. #20
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    I put an Odyssey PC-680 in my '96 Oilhead and put the exact same battery in my '81 G/S. They crank better than anything I've used before and do not require trickle charging because they don't self discharge like many lead acids do. You do need to charge them up to the correct voltage periodically and longevity would benefit from an adjustable regulator. They like a slightly higher voltage. See specs.

    That said I have the Panasonic sealed lead acid battery mentioned already in my '82 RS and it still takes a charge after five years or more now. When it comes time to replace it though, it will be with an Odyssey.

    I get my Odyssey batteries here http://sepbatteries.com/pc680-odysse...FdIAQAodtmYK7A and have yet to find them cheaper elsewhere. Someone will be along shortly now and find you a cheaper one somewhere else of course!
    $108 bucks, free shipping. Game on!

    If you want really cheap there is one here that should work. Other guys here use these with no big complaints. Good old universal batteries: http://www.staabbattery.com/product/...UB12220-V.html
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  6. #21
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    [So there's lots of variables on battery life - charging system heath, type of driving, battery care, and probably even luck. Not all batteries are built the same.

    You're best bet is to find a battery that fits, that you can afford, make sure your connections are clean, treat the battery right, and buy a battery tender (smart charger) to keep the battery topped off when not in use. It sounds like you won't be riding full time during the year...I see a battery tender in your future for sure![/QUOTE]

    OK, if I would go with the traditional lead acid battery, what one would you recommend?

    thanks,

    JimmyLee

  7. #22
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmylee View Post
    OK, if I would go with the traditional lead acid battery, what one would you recommend?
    The last three batteries I've gotten from the dealer. Before that, I had a couple of Yuasa batteries...I forget the model right now. Basically it's the one that had 28AH. I believe Interstate Batteries has the same battery, just badged differently. IIRC, there are really only a couple of major battery manufacturers although there may be many more retail companies.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmylee View Post

    OK, if I would go with the traditional lead acid battery, what one would you recommend?

    thanks,

    JimmyLee
    I got my last battery from here: http://www.staabbattery.com/product/...B-Battery.html

    It's a basic lead acid battery that I can recommend. If the charging system needs works, the basic lead acid battery can handle (temporary) over voltage without permanent damage - just remember to check the water level. A battery tender is necessary.
    Stan

    AH# 13238

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