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New to Oilheads ?'s, '04 R1150R

Bobmws

Curmudgeon At Large
OK, I've done a partial deilenberger, partial because I've kept my K while Don deserted the fold! :stick
I bought an '04 R1150R ABS with 10k miles.
Over the years I've gleaned a bit of info re Oilheads, but didn't pay alot of attention. I remember some posts about cam tensioners being upgraded, alternator belt changes & upgrades.
I guess I'll need a synchronizer, probably the Harmonizer.
Any issues I should check or be aware of immediately? :dunno
 
I'd wait until about 20K miles, then pull the starter off and check the transmission input splines. You either have a good one or a bad one. If you have a bad one you will easily be able to ascertain damage at that point.

I'm in Jax. If you're interested I'll let you know next time I'm doing a tune-up to my R1100S. You're welcome to come up and watch.
 
I'd wait until about 20K miles, then pull the starter off and check the transmission input splines. You either have a good one or a bad one. If you have a bad one you will easily be able to ascertain damage at that point.

I'm in Jax. If you're interested I'll let you know next time I'm doing a tune-up to my R1100S. You're welcome to come up and watch.

Thanks Jim, I probably take you up on that offer. :dance
Isn't there a CD someone makes showing the major service procedures?
 
Bob,

Look at the screw-in cam chain tensioners. The one on the bottom of the right side is easy to see. The one on the top of the left side, tucked by the Telelever arm is a bit more secluded.

Anyway, BMW came out with a replacement for the old style on the left side that won't drain down causing chain slap noise and maybe other problems (broken chain guides are a major pain). If both sides take a 17mm wrench then the left side is the old style. If the left side takes a 15mm wrench instead it is already the new style.

If you still have the old style, replace it.
 
Maintenance Video Tutorial Links

Here are some great video tutorials on common tasks for the 1100/1150 motors. These are large wmv files and they take time to load depending on your connection speeds.
But not as long as mail order videos that sometimes disappoint. :laugh
First make some :lurk

Ignition Timing: http://www.bmwmc.net/uploads/tm11/R4V Ignition timing_medium.wmv

Throttle Synch: http://www.bmwmc.net/uploads/tm11/R4V Throttle Synch_medium.wmv

Valve Adjust: http://www.bmwmc.net/uploads/tm11/R4V EngSvc115_medium.wmv

Belt Tensioning: http://www.bmwmc.net/uploads/tm11/Poly V-belt sequence_medium.wmv
 
Paul, is it SOP to replace the lower, right side tensioner? I understood that the left side was prone to failure and replaced that one but that the right side pumped up ok and was not the source of chain slop and racket. 20K RR.
 
Paul, is it SOP to replace the lower, right side tensioner? I understood that the left side was prone to failure and replaced that one but that the right side pumped up ok and was not the source of chain slop and racket. 20K RR.

The left side tensioner makes a racket at startup and the mechanism beneath it is prone to premature wear due to the fact that the oil drains out of the bottom of the tensioner cylinder after the engine is stopped.

The right side tensioner faces up and so the oil stays in.

The replacement tensioner is designed so that the oil does not drain out so it is quiet at startup and does not cause premature wear. If you have the old style it is a very good idea to replace it.
 
Twin-Max Throttle Body Balancer

I guess I'll need a synchronizer, probably the Harmonizer.
Any issues I should check or be aware of immediately? :dunno

I just sold my R1150GS and bought a F650GS, so I don't need my Twin-Max TB balancer anymore. Make me a good offer and I'll sell it to you.

-Sirby
 
Paul, is it SOP to replace the lower, right side tensioner? I understood that the left side was prone to failure and replaced that one but that the right side pumped up ok and was not the source of chain slop and racket. 20K RR.

Right side is OK. Original left would drain down and there is a new design replacemnent for the left side only.
 
I replaced the left side tensioner on my '04 1150 early on and it did rattle at start up pretty good before replacement. Now i wonder if I should do the same thing to my '94 1100 even though there is no start up rattle?
 
I replaced the left side tensioner on my '04 1150 early on and it did rattle at start up pretty good before replacement. Now i wonder if I should do the same thing to my '94 1100 even though there is no start up rattle?

If it doesn't rattle at start up then maybe it has already been replaced?
Old one has 17mm bolt head. New one is 15mm. You can check with a wrench without disturbing anything else.
 
I don't hear any left side rattle, am @ 27k on bike that has old style cam chain tensioner. Are we talking 3 parts to update: piston,"cap" & crush washer?
BTW, who's giving a discount on bike parts these days? Like many Chicago was my go to place with ~20% until they went out.
 
Yep. 3 parts to it.
Tensioner: 11 31 7 688 629
Piston: 11 31 7 656 922
Crush washer: 07 11 9 963 308

I got mine from Ozzie's BMW in Chico and it turned out cheaper than the Rubber Chicken one.
Doesn't Bob's BMW give a discount to MOA members?
 
So is the wear coming from frequent cold starts? If so, then why would a "long trip,non-commuter bike" give a problem anytime soon? If not, when does the slap seem to appear, as in miles? :ear Thanks for the part #'s!
 
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