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Thread: R60/5 Drive Shaft Filler Plug Stripped

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  1. #1
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    R60/5 Drive Shaft Filler Plug Stripped

    Hello Everyone,

    On the newly acquired R60/5 (1973) when I checked the drive shaft fluid, I removed the top bolt (not an allen hole) and saw a piece of metal attached to the threads on the plug/bolt. When I tried to tighten, it started spinning.

    If it were the bottom I'd be more concerned - wondering if I could either find a longer bolt or use a little red or blue loctite to hold it in place between maintenance cycles.

    Otherwise, I could remove FD, take it to a machine shop and get it re-tapped for next size up or heli coiled.

    Open to suggestions.
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  2. #2
    I would have it tapped for a bigger plug. "Normal" taps have a tapered nose and would hit the pinion shaft before completing new threads. But you can get a short, stubby tap that will work. A machine shop can do this in a few minutes if you bring them the final drive.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  3. #3

    Teflon tape temporary fix

    If you want to take the bike around the block or a little further you could always wrap a couple turns of Teflon tap around the plug and reinstall it for a temporary fix. After all its on the top and you may find other little things going on with the bike during your test rides that could be fixed while the threads are being straightened out.

    If you have the mechanical ability and tools to remove the final drive and swing arm to take it to a machine shop you should be able to fix it yourself by simply removing the final drive and either helicoil or time cert it or go to a bigger plug all together. Just pull the final drive and be real careful not to bottom out your tap or insert on the drive shaft bell.

  4. #4
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    Thanks, Guys

    Just thinking ahead as this will be a Spring project - hopefully a machine shop can get a larger metric "bolt." This approach is the "do it right" way - thanks again.
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  5. #5
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    But you can get a short, stubby tap that will work.
    Referred to as , a "bottoming tap". Do it right Ken. Pull the FD (it's only held on with four nuts), take it to a real machinist, and have a Helicoil, Keensert, or other "proper" thread insert installed. OEM plug, and crush washer will work forever.

    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden
    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner
    1963 Dnepr

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Lmo1131 View Post
    Referred to as , a "bottoming tap". Do it right Ken. Pull the FD (it's only held on with four nuts), take it to a real machinist, and have a Helicoil, Keensert, or other "proper" thread insert installed. OEM plug, and crush washer will work forever.

    Thanks for the terminology. I knew what I was trying to describe (I own a couple of them), but certainly didn't know what the correct name was.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

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