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clutch removal question 1970 R75/5

I can't imagine getting "behind" these screws with any penetrating oil. I'm trying to get PB blaster around the face of the screw. I'll put some more on today and probably try again with the impact this weekend.
 
OK- after further review- I think there IS a way to spray a little PB Blast behind the screws. It appears there is a spacer and if the flywheel is rotated, I was able to bend the straw and spray some behind the screw. I tried impact on all screws and none moved. If the engine is turned, you can access the bottom of the clutch and try each screw which seems the easiest access. I have sprayed again heavily (turning the garage into a hazmat site)and will try again tomorrow. I'll find the heat gun in the meantime.

Now back to sanding down my saddlebags for paint.
 
Tried paint stripper gun today. No luck. I held the gun up for about 3-4 minutes on one screw. Heat gun temp is supposed to be 700-800. Not sure if I tried enough time or temp. Tried to light my cheap propane torch and couldn't get it to light.

Found ADDITIONAL way to access behind with solvent by rotating to point screw is visible in timing window. Sprayed more PB Blaster through the window onto the back of the screw/spacer.

So have I heated it enough? Does anyone know if there is a larger flat blade bit available? It seems like the standard bit that seems to come with all of the kits is about a half of the size to properly fit in the slot. That is, I'm leaving about half a slot surface area unused when trying to impact. Maybe there is a special tool? Seems like the flywheel could be blocked somehow and a breaker bar/large flat blade screwdriver combination?
 
It seems like the standard bit that seems to come with all of the kits is about a half of the size to properly fit in the slot. That is, I'm leaving about half a slot surface area unused when trying to impact. Maybe there is a special tool? Seems like the flywheel could be blocked somehow and a breaker bar/large flat blade screwdriver combination?

You need to find a tool that is thick enough to fill the slot, and wide enough to fit the length of the slot. It would be nice if it had a hex that would fit the impact driver. If not, it would be nice if it had a hex that would fit an impact socket that would fit an impact driver. You need to measure the slots in those capscrews and go to a good tool store or get on line and find something that fits.

Then, either fix or replace the torch. One of the small (one-hand size) butane torches would be perfect for these capscrews. Then apply the heat directly to the head of the screw. I don't think my heat gun would be sufficient for this application.

The biggest bit here might work. I'm not sure because I haven't seen the screw head like that in 25 years, if then.

http://www.amazon.com/Vim-Tools-IMP...9501&sr=1-5&keywords=impact+driver+drill+bits

Here is an example of what I would be looking for in a torch:

http://www.amazon.com/American-Science-Surplus-BUTANE-TORCH/dp/B0001CULK6
 
This was sent to me from a buddy.

For All of you Mechanic's and Self doerÔÇÖs out there. Penetrating Oil - interesting.

This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters:
Recently ÔÇ£Machinist Workshop MagazineÔÇØ did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ÔÇÿscientifically rustedÔÇÖ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

This last ÔÇ£shop brewÔÇØ of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat out the commercially prepared products costing far more.
 
Thanks all- looks like I'm going to be shopping and "brewing". That's really interesting stuff about the lubricants. I will look for some Kroil for my collection too!
 
Thanks Paul. I looked at the sites. The slot is approx 1/2" wide and the largest bit in the kit that I bought (for less than $10.00 and looks exactly like the complete kit in the photos for $30) is approx 3/8".

The bits shown do not list sizes, so I'm not sure if the largest one is any larger than what I have, but I may gamble and buy a set to find out.

In the meantime, i'm going to keep spraying solvent and put some more heat on it.

I'm aftaid to heat too much and warp or crack. Should this even be a worry?
 
I'm aftaid to heat too much and warp or crack. Should this even be a worry?

if you're using a heat gun.. no worries.

i have a Milwaukee paint stripping gun, and regularly use it for heating up pivot bearings on my oilhead. that loctite requires about 270 degs. before it lets go. i don't use a IR temp sensor, but i've found that about 2 songs on the radio is the right amount of time to leave it on there.
 
You really are NOT gonna apply enough heat with a heat gun to hurt anything, nor really to get the threads to the temperature necessary to break them loose with impact. YOU NEED A TORCH....It really is that simple. You put the tip of the flame on the head of the screw, keep heating it until a gob of spit on your finger applied to the head will sizzle.....Crude but effective..........

Go to any good auto supply outfit and request a screwdrive tip to meet your needs. They are typically sold in a set; but it is common to get one up to perhaps an 1/8 inch thick blade. Really, what you are doing is daunting task that requires the right technique; but observe what others are actually advising you......FOLLOW THE WRITTEN ADVICE and techniques that others KNOW works......Good luck and God bless..........Dennis
 
the 50/50 penetrating oil formula works great - have been using it since I read about it
a year or so ago

enclosed another pic of the tool, the bit, and one of these screws

This tool and bit have never failed me
 

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I'm going to buy one of those little torches. They look like what I need to concentrate a flame/heat in a small area. Still trying to locate a wide blade that will work with an impact driver. Went to Wholesale Tool and they didn't have any. Still soaking in PB, but will also buy some Kroil.

I'll just keep soaking and trying with what I have until I get the new toys- I mean "tools".

Thanks everyone for the input. Looks like I'm on the righ path, just need to keep going.

Hard to believe they didn't use at least a Phillips type head on these.
 
rogermansfield;842960 Hard to believe they didn't use at least a Phillips type head on these.[/QUOTE said:
As troublesome as slotted screws are, if really tight a Phillips can be worse. By design, the blade ramps up out of the cross slots when overtorque is encountered. Its a feature, not a flaw.
 
Craftsman has some flat bits in their socket selection. I have an old 1/2" drive one that has been ground down a little in width and can be used with an adapter on my 3/8 drive impact. I assume they have a 3/8 drive as well

I recently took a few clutch screws off the R69S with the standard impact bit in my impact hammer kit...one good rap with a machinist hammer and they were loose. Mine were apparently way looser than what you are dealing with....good luck!
 
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