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07 R1200GS clutch issue

rhafe

New member
I just replaced my slave cylinder. Can't get it bled properly. If I pull the lever in about half way I have "feel" for about 2 seconds and then it goes away. Could someone give me an idea of what that means? I've tried every trick in the book to get it right to no avail. The bike only has about 9000 miles. Thank you.
 
I just replaced my slave cylinder. Can't get it bled properly. If I pull the lever in about half way I have "feel" for about 2 seconds and then it goes away. Could someone give me an idea of what that means? I've tried every trick in the book to get it right to no avail. The bike only has about 9000 miles. Thank you.

How did you bleed? BMW recommends pushing the hydraulic fluid in from the slave using a syringe until the level in the reservoir is correct.
 
Change "recommends" to "specifies."

Your dealer will sell you a repair CD.
 

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How did you bleed? BMW recommends pushing the hydraulic fluid in from the slave using a syringe until the level in the reservoir is correct.

Did it that way and a few others. I'm guessing there must be something else. Probably have to take it a shop if I can get the up the nerve and the money.....
 
Just curious - why was the original slave cylinder replaced?

And you did use the specified mineral oil not brake fluid right? Unfortunately - if you've used brake fluid, chances are good you're looking at replacing the master cylinder and the slave cylinder.. the seals are not compatible with DOT4 (or any other brake fluid..)
 
Just curious - why was the original slave cylinder replaced?

And you did use the specified mineral oil not brake fluid right? Unfortunately - if you've used brake fluid, chances are good you're looking at replacing the master cylinder and the slave cylinder.. the seals are not compatible with DOT4 (or any other brake fluid..)

I was exhibiting symptoms of slave cylinder failure like not fully disengaging at times, vague clutch release point, etc. several people at the ADV Rider forum had very similar issues and replacing the original slave with the newer model fixed it. I suppose there is a possibility that the replacement slave is faulty. I did use the specified mineral oil type fluid. Thanks.
 
Do you have any "high points" in the line that could trap air? There should be a constant upward slope from the slave to the lever.
 
The last few times I did this I simply opened the bleed valve installed at the end of the hose and periodically added fluid to the master cylinder reservoir at the top. It flowed perfectly fine by gravity. When clean fresh fluid began to emerge at the bottom I closed the valve and checked the level in the reservoir. End of job.
 
Or if there is a banjo bolt at the reservoir, pump the clutch lever until it just holds, then crack open the banjo bolt briefly, then tighten. Repeat this a few times.

I've found that the above method works well when air is trapped either in the reservoir or upper part of the lines. These are very small pistons in both the brake master cylinder & clutch, so there is no way you can get the air to go down to the bleed screws.

As Paul as noted, gravity will normally work as well as long as you are not in a hurry.
 
Do you have any "high points" in the line that could trap air? There should be a constant upward slope from the slave to the lever.

Zackly.

I'm a bit new to hydraulicly operated clutches and recently had a problem with my R1100S just bought used. The fluid was a bit low and I managed to park it with extra left lean and got air in the system. Really easy solution was an overnight in my garage with the clutch lever strapped pulled. It bled itself nicely. I maybe "plinked" the line a couple times at the outset. "Bled" is kind of the wrong word here, as what happened was the bubbles came to the top. As noted, they really aren't going to get forced out the bottom. Thanks to my parts guy for this tip.
 
The last few times I did this I simply opened the bleed valve installed at the end of the hose and periodically added fluid to the master cylinder reservoir at the top. It flowed perfectly fine by gravity. When clean fresh fluid began to emerge at the bottom I closed the valve and checked the level in the reservoir. End of job.

I am going to try this method. I've attached a clear plastic line to the bleed nipple and fed it to a small container. Should the clear line drop immediately down from the nipple or should it go up a ways and then down? Thank you.
 
I am going to try this method. I've attached a clear plastic line to the bleed nipple and fed it to a small container. Should the clear line drop immediately down from the nipple or should it go up a ways and then down? Thank you.

I like to loop it upward because it is easier to see what is happening with fluid and air.
 
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