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Osram H11 Nightbreaker

I've ordered the Osrams from Powerbulbs to try in the Toyota, still getting conflicting reports re the Toyota projectors and HID's.

I like the color temp (4300k) of the HIDs through the Toyota (Scion) projectors, but whether the light output is better is quite debatable. These are 35watt HIDs.
 
Don,

I COULD be wrong, but I think you meant the Osram SILVERSTAR and the Sylvania SILVERSTAR.

I read your article several years ago and ever since have been using the OSRAM Silverstars. A DEFINITE improvement with not much notice loss of life (I'm still going strong on my second bulb in 40,000 miles).

I have since read in several other lighting reports that they are indeed way better than the Sylvania Silverstars that are readily available in car part stores.

One of the few places in the US that carries the Osram Silverstars is:

http://www.casporttouring.com/cst/motorcycle/OSR/144737.html



:dance:dance:dance

Lee - you're absolutely right. NightCutters were another companies product and they also tested out reasonably well to the claimed specs.
 
The DDM HID in my K1200RS has the same pattern as the halogen with no glare outside of the cutoff lines, as judged by the light on the garage wall.
FWIW, I've ordered the Osrams from Powerbulbs to try in the Toyota, still getting conflicting reports re the Toyota projectors and HID's.

Bob,

Part of the reason for glare is - many halogen bulbs come with a black coating on the end of the bulb.. to prevent the driver of an oncoming car from seeing the filament directly. That is a cause of glare if the coating isn't there (these are primarily low-beam bulbs) and it won't necessarily show in a pattern on a garage door. The HID bulbs don't have that coating. Can't due to the way the two connections to the bulb are made.

It's also true that the patterns may match, but that doesn't mean there isn't more light above the cutoff line. More light above the cutoff will cause glare. Since you're increasing the overall light output of the lamp assembly, there is almost certainly more light all over the bulb pattern (above and below the cutoff line.) On an HID designed reflector - this is accounted for, and the actual light above the cutoff is no more then the light a halogen bulb puts out.

FWIW - there are Federal standards for these, and no HID conversion light I know of meets the standards.

More is not always better. Better often is light that is used better, better pattern, or a good set of auxiliary lights that can be turned off when there is oncoming traffic.
 
+1
On the current RT, HID conversion works pretty well but as Don notes there is a bit more light above the cutoff even though the pattern doesn't change. I found the swap works well enough providing one lowers the aim a small amount to compensate for the difference. But HID swaps aren't very satisfactory on some things and actually impossible on some new cars that have engineered light sockets so the usual HID bulb swaps can't be fitted.
 
+1
On the current RT, HID conversion works pretty well but as Don notes there is a bit more light above the cutoff even though the pattern doesn't change. I found the swap works well enough providing one lowers the aim a small amount to compensate for the difference. But HID swaps aren't very satisfactory on some things and actually impossible on some new cars that have engineered light sockets so the usual HID bulb swaps can't be fitted.

My K is hacked and has a trail reducer which sits the front end a bit lower than stock, even with the Hyperpro shock & spring adjusted for the proper sag. I have not raised the headlight to where it was when the bike was solo. The last mile of my road is tree lined with no atreet lights, I'm well aware if additional light is at a higher level than acceptable for oncoming traffic.
Now when I go the halogen high beam and the ADVMonster LED's come on, I can see the treetops..............
 
Update

FWIW I have had the Nightbreakers in my Camry for a week now. They are definitely whiter as I can see the yellow of the halogen fog lights (clear bulbs, not yellow) against the low beams. They definitely throw the light further down the road, at least 1/4 mile, this based on the reflection of a stop sign that is visible much sooner, again a 2 lane road with no street lights.
I think part of the 'magic' is the bulbs have 1/4" mirrored band against the top capped end of the bulb and also at the base of the bulb. I suspect this is to focus the light to emit from the center of the filament/bulb and work with the lens/reflectors.
Personally I'm pleased with the performance of these bulbs, time will tell what the longevity is.
I also replaced the high beams with a similar bulb. The high beams are also used at partial power as DRL's. The old bulbs had some discoloration on the glass capsule after 22 months, 52k miles of use.
OBMWC, I'll most likely replace the high beam in my K12RS with a Nightbreaker.
 
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