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Thread: Another rescue project '74 75/6

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by henzilla View Post
    Have been on several rides, a little further each time. I did a 200 mile loop this past Saturday and all seems well. Bike seems tight and responsive throughout all ranges...just doesn't stop well! It sure purrs on the 65/70MPH two lanes around here. Passed a few under the limit Cruisers and a R1 with a skill-less rider...all good The look on the faces of what had passed them was priceless.
    Attachment 37664

    I have adjusted the front brakes a few times and have not replaced the front pads yet, they are sitting here however. It spins freely one day, drags a day later, then will free up again. I need to get the O ring for the adjuster pin before I pull it....thinking it's a possible issue.

    I still have a hard lever and with adjusters all the way in at lever and master cylinder cannot get any clearance at the master cylinder under the tank.
    The manual says you should be able to get a feeler gauge in there...not happening!

    The grandson replaced the MC and front hose in 2002 when he ran it for 2000 miles before re-parking it. The records had a gap and I finally found that 2002 Santa Cruz receipt for a battery, oil change kit and brake parts.He said he used it a few times while stationed in CA.

    I have bled it several times. Guess I just need to pull the pads and start at square one again. Also noticed in parts fiche the header says clutch/brake cable with the short or long option for bars...are the two the same? Cannot find a separate listing for a brake cable. I thought he had also changed that cable and maybe put a shorter one on, but the receipt doesn't reflect that.

    Oh yeah, still confident from all the records I was the one to roll over to 21K...just a baby still!


    Just curious...how did [adjust] the front disc brakes?

  2. #32
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71243 View Post
    Just curious...how did [adjust] the front disc brakes?
    After I fixed the routing/ cable connection to the m/c and having a bit of slack at lever finally...I had bike on centerstand and played with the angle with the adjuster under the caliper until it stopped rubbing the rotor.
    Steve Henson
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    It's not the breaths you take, but the moments that take your breath away-D.Dillon/G. Strait

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by henzilla View Post
    After I fixed the routing/ cable connection to the m/c and having a bit of slack at lever finally...I had bike on centerstand and played with the angle with the adjuster under the caliper until it stopped rubbing the rotor.
    This is where I am confused....adjuster under the caliper? Slack in the lever ? I have never seen an adjuster anywhere on a disc brake? The [adjustment] is in the fluid filling the caliper as the pads wear....

    Are you talking about lubing / centering ? everything in the caliper mounting ?

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71243 View Post
    This is where I am confused....adjuster under the caliper? Slack in the lever ? I have never seen an adjuster anywhere on a disc brake? The [adjustment] is in the fluid filling the caliper as the pads wear....

    Are you talking about lubing / centering ? everything in the caliper mounting ?
    First I'd say try searching the Airhead forum using the link at the top right of the page. Put "eccentric" into the search box. You will see a number of posts that discuss adjusting the ATE brake caliper. I'm sure somewhere in there will be a reasonable set of pictures showing the process.

    Once you take off the small cover at the bottom of the caliper, you'll see a slotted screw head in there. This is part of the "eccentric" adjuster and moves the angle of the pads back and forth. The idea is to get them to be parallel to the disk so that you get maximum area of pad on the disk. Two ways to do that. One is to use a sharpie pen and make a line across the disk. Rotate the tire so you see how much of the sharpie line is erased. Adjust the eccentric until virtually of the line is removed or removed evenly. The second way is to lightly hold the brake lever, squeezing the pads against the disk. Then turn the eccentric until you feel the middle and where it just "wants to be". That likely will be the proper adjustment point.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    First I'd say try searching the Airhead forum using the link at the top right of the page. Put "eccentric" into the search box. You will see a number of posts that discuss adjusting the ATE brake caliper. I'm sure somewhere in there will be a reasonable set of pictures showing the process.

    Once you take off the small cover at the bottom of the caliper, you'll see a slotted screw head in there. This is part of the "eccentric" adjuster and moves the angle of the pads back and forth. The idea is to get them to be parallel to the disk so that you get maximum area of pad on the disk. Two ways to do that. One is to use a sharpie pen and make a line across the disk. Rotate the tire so you see how much of the sharpie line is erased. Adjust the eccentric until virtually of the line is removed or removed evenly. The second way is to lightly hold the brake lever, squeezing the pads against the disk. Then turn the eccentric until you feel the middle and where it just "wants to be". That likely will be the proper adjustment point.


    Is it something peculiar to the "per-Brembo" brakes ? I never owned or worked on any of those as I recall ? If the Brembo's had it ? I just don't remember. I'll pull out one of my old manuals, see what i can find.

  6. #36
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71243 View Post
    Is it something peculiar to the "per-Brembo" brakes ? I never owned or worked on any of those as I recall ? If the Brembo's had it ? I just don't remember. I'll pull out one of my old manuals, see what i can find.
    It's the only disc set-up I ever needed to line up as the caliper rotates in line w/rotor on a pivot point. The pads on these are not flat, each side is angled. The adjuster is under that 19mm plug.

    pics are looking up from floor
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Steve Henson
    SABMWRA MOA Club#62's Flat Fixer/ current forum moderator
    It's not the breaths you take, but the moments that take your breath away-D.Dillon/G. Strait

  7. #37
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    bummer

    DANGIT...

    Pulled the heads to do a complete top end seal since I lost the head gasket on the left a week or so ago. Found a bit of an issue as I noticed a sign of major heat scarring on the intake rocker and the bottom nut was loose. A little sink in my mood of just replacing the gasket.

    I had checked torque when I was going thru the bike when we first got it and recalled that same head bolt was the one not near torque value.Yet it tightened back to spec. I was closing in on another oil change and valve check. The bike has been running well and no signs of a leak or popping until it let go.
    I had found most of the service history and never saw a head re-torque in it's 20K previous life. Maybe it was just waiting on me.

    The threads are shot on that stud and must have been working itself loose again. End result is a damaged head. Good news was the valves and piston dome are clean from any carbon build up and I think the gasket mating surface on the left cylinder isn't damaged. Now have two 750's on the lifts waiting on parts and patience.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Steve Henson
    SABMWRA MOA Club#62's Flat Fixer/ current forum moderator
    It's not the breaths you take, but the moments that take your breath away-D.Dillon/G. Strait

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by henzilla View Post
    It's the only disc set-up I ever needed to line up as the caliper rotates in line w/rotor on a pivot point. The pads on these are not flat, each side is angled. The adjuster is under that 19mm plug.

    pics are looking up from floor

    That splains it good pics thanks.

  9. #39
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    Can something like that be welded and machined back to spec? I can't say that I've ever seen anything like that...ouch!
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  10. #40
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    I'd ask Randy Long if he can fix that.
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  11. #41
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Thanks Anton...I'll check on that.
    Steve Henson
    SABMWRA MOA Club#62's Flat Fixer/ current forum moderator
    It's not the breaths you take, but the moments that take your breath away-D.Dillon/G. Strait

  12. #42
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    'Cuz I'm curious, what is a new head worth? I have, Ahem, fudged things like back together (Back to serviceable) but that does look like a really deep one.
    OM
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  13. #43
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    One of those..."If ya have to ask"
    Saw a new one for $800-ish...looking at a few used on the Net, but none as clean as this burnt one. I had planned on having the heads re worked for the valve seats at some point...just not this soon. It is pretty deep....looks like a factory casting groove as it's so smooth.

    The sleeve in the head acted like a chimney...really got hot!

    And the stud is destroyed...somehow it tightened when I checked it the first time
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Steve Henson
    SABMWRA MOA Club#62's Flat Fixer/ current forum moderator
    It's not the breaths you take, but the moments that take your breath away-D.Dillon/G. Strait

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by henzilla View Post
    DANGIT...

    Pulled the heads to do a complete top end seal since I lost the head gasket on the left a week or so ago. Found a bit of an issue as I noticed a sign of major heat scarring on the intake rocker and the bottom nut was loose. A little sink in my mood of just replacing the gasket.

    I had checked torque when I was going thru the bike when we first got it and recalled that same head bolt was the one not near torque value.Yet it tightened back to spec. I was closing in on another oil change and valve check. The bike has been running well and no signs of a leak or popping until it let go.
    I had found most of the service history and never saw a head re-torque in it's 20K previous life. Maybe it was just waiting on me.

    The threads are shot on that stud and must have been working itself loose again. End result is a damaged head. Good news was the valves and piston dome are clean from any carbon build up and I think the gasket mating surface on the left cylinder isn't damaged. Now have two 750's on the lifts waiting on parts and patience.
    Hey Steve, that picture shows what a recessed valve looks like. I'm pretty sure that your exhaust valve there is sunk way down into the seat. It's a good thing you took that cylinder apart when you did.

  15. #45
    Nutfarm
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    Nice old relic. I have a 75 R75/6 I bought new, that has over 175,000 miles on it, out of the 20 motorcycles I have bought or still own, it has been the best one of the bunch.

    I put dual disc on it early on as it did need better brakes. It got a top end and a clutch at 90,000, when the gearbox was out it got the updated shifter assy. I've had to repair the drive splines on the final drive.

    Not bad for 38 years. I hope you have fun with yours.

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