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Anyone had experience with BG products for your bike?

willhawks

New member
Hello to all who have the psychiatric condition known as BMW Motorcycle Addiction!
35 years ago I was working in a European Car Shop and we used BG products extensively because they worked beyond our expectations. I have not tried their products in motorcycle applications and would be most appreciative for any feedback the faithful could provide RE: their experience using BG products in their motorcycles. Advice, experiences, death threats and sexual harrassment welcome.

Regards,

Will
 
I think the oil additive BG MOA?« would be recommended by our organisation!
 
If you are a REAL BMW addict you use only REAL BMW parts including REAL BMW air in the tires. Any substitution can cause blindness, death, or worse.
 
bg products

I have sold and used by products for 30 years in the GM dealerships,I have used these products in about everything I own. They work just fine but so does the factory BMW products it depends on what you feel comfortable with
 
I think the products would work exactly the same in a bike as it would in a car as long as the amount is adjusted for the bike.
 
If you are a REAL BMW addict you use only REAL BMW parts including REAL BMW air in the tires. Any substitution can cause blindness, death, or worse.

I see you've been to the BMW dealer in Vermont. ;) He told me:

1. Touratech crashbars would crack the engine in a tipover
2. Galfers brake rotors would cause my brakes to seize, sending me over the bars
3. Risers would change the steering geometry and make the GS unstable
4. Using Amzoil MC oil would shorten my engine life by half
5. Installing a Mudsling would cause my rear shock to overheat and fail
 
>>4. Using Amzoil MC oil would shorten my engine life by half<<

Damn, and I've been using this stuff for years now!! :p
 
fwiw, i used their Extreme Pressure Concentrate as an additive after my airhead transmisison drained itself in the Rocky Mnts years ago. (and any rumors about my failure to fully tighen the drain plug allowing it to leave the bike 2,000 miles after a fluid change are unfounded and unsubstantated).
That trans made it another 7,000 miles before i arrived back home and had it opened up and repaired- most all the bearings were shot, but it worked very well for the rest of that trip. In fact, it actually shifted better & smoother after being run totally dry for about 25 miles than it had in its previous 85000 miles of life.
 
I see you've been to the BMW dealer in Vermont. ;) He told me:

1. Touratech crashbars would crack the engine in a tipover
2. Galfers brake rotors would cause my brakes to seize, sending me over the bars
3. Risers would change the steering geometry and make the GS unstable
4. Using Amzoil MC oil would shorten my engine life by half
5. Installing a Mudsling would cause my rear shock to overheat and fail

Frank? Sure doesn't sound like Bud.
 
The #1 that "works" with respect to BG products is the rebate program provided for mechanics that put these products in their customers' vehicles.
 
You can use some of the stuff they offer. If you're using a good properly formula and balanced oil that meets specification you don't need to use any of the motor oil additives. It only takes away from the oil that you already spent money on. The gear oil is fine, fuel additives won't hurt but don't add more than necessary because double dosage doesn't mean double the cleaning and enhancement. If you maintain your bike as scheduled there's not really a benefit using BG over any other product. I don't recommend running extended drains on motor oil or gear oil even if their marketing material says that you can do so by using their products.

Be careful when using any of the boutique products out there. (i.e. Amsoil, Royal Purple, BG) Their marketing department usually over states that you can double your miles our more between services. This is not good practice unless you are performing oil analysis on a regular basis and you would still need to change your filter. I only say this because I see a lot of vehicles (automobiles) of all makes needing new or rebuilt crate engines because someone bought into the marketing and went 30,000 miles on an oil change because something and someone said they could. Lubricants are cheap and it's not hard to change them out.

Hopefully this helps and not completely off topic.
 
Be careful when using any of the boutique products out there. (i.e. Amsoil, Royal Purple, BG) Their marketing department usually over states that you can double your miles our more between services. This is not good practice unless you are performing oil analysis on a regular basis and you would still need to change your filter. I only say this because I see a lot of vehicles (automobiles) of all makes needing new or rebuilt crate engines because someone bought into the marketing and went 30,000 miles on an oil change because something and someone said they could. Lubricants are cheap and it's not hard to change them out.

Hopefully this helps and not completely off topic.

I agree. I don't change oil because it is worn out, I change it because it gets dirty. I don't think it makes much difference what the dirt is floating around in. Like someone said long ago here regarding oil "any oil is better than no oil and clean oil is better than dirty oil".
 
I agree. I don't change oil because it is worn out, I change it because it gets dirty. I don't think it makes much difference what the dirt is floating around in. Like someone said long ago here regarding oil "any oil is better than no oil and clean oil is better than dirty oil".

Actually in the 21st century some of this is no longer true.

Once the cleaning additives have done their job and suspended whatever "dirt" there was, the oil itself becomes a better lubricant. Constantly changing the oil at shorter-than-recommended intervals means you've always got poorer lubricating oil in there.

This of course applies to the synthetics designed for long intervals and not for ancient formula (but ultimately more expensive) dino oils.

http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/
 
Actually in the 21st century some of this is no longer true.

Once the cleaning additives have done their job and suspended whatever "dirt" there was, the oil itself becomes a better lubricant. Constantly changing the oil at shorter-than-recommended intervals means you've always got poorer lubricating oil in there.

This of course applies to the synthetics designed for long intervals and not for ancient formula (but ultimately more expensive) dino oils.

http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/

This should never be done unless your actually doing an oil analysis frequently after the recommended drain interval. Not all oils are created equally and some barely make it to the manufacturer drain interval. I do a lot of work with Automotive, Commercial and Industrial customers that are on a preventative maintenance program which uses oil analysis to determine actual drain intervals on individual vehicles. It's not always just about viscosity, "dirt" "crud" and color. You can have a a fleet of 10 identical vehicles and each one can have different results on oil analysis when using the same oil and filters. Everything from slightly different tolerances, environmental (i.e. dusty environment, operating temp, load, idle time etc.)

I'm going to try to attach a sample from a customers Ford pickup with a Powerstroke. I have also performed some analysis for the BMW dealership for guys who ride a lot of mile and do Iron Butts and are always running 12,000 - 15,000 miles drains. They typically are using Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50. It is very impressive to see what the report looks like on those bikes.
 

Attachments

  • VESCO - Unit Jeff Mox 2008 Ford Powerstroke 6.4 x.pdf
    57.4 KB · Views: 11
dirty oil

Dirty oil is actually a good sign that your oil is working,the detergents in the oil are doing a good job at keeping carbon and contaminants from your engine note that keeping the oil and filter changed and adding the bg moa,no pun intended,definitely helps
 
Dirty oil is actually a good sign that your oil is working,the detergents in the oil are doing a good job at keeping carbon and contaminants from your engine note that keeping the oil and filter changed and adding the bg moa,no pun intended,definitely helps

Adding BG MOA will not do any good if your using a quality oil that meets the specification. In fact if you ad BG MOA or any oil additive it actually alter the properly balanced oil formulation. For example: adding an oil additive to a Mobil 1, Valvoline Syn Pwr, Pennzoil Platnium or a product like Ams Oil and Royal Purple you just made a great oil into a mediocre oil.

There is absolutely no need to ad an oil additive to just about any oil that had the API starburst on it. Some of their products can enhance or help a system but the oil is a joke and marketing ploy to make BG and the installers more money. Service Writers and dealers get spiffed (given cash) to promote and sell products like BG, Valvoline VPS, MOC, Wynns. Usually the Service Writer and Technician get $5-$10 for adding 1 item. When they sell you a trans flush, coolant flush, power steering flush, brake system flush it all adds margin to the dealer parts dept, service dept and lines the pockets with cash.

The biggest benefit to the consumer for using these services is that they actually get a parts and labor warranty along with performing the services. If you perform a transmission flush before 36,000 miles and perform it every 36,000 miles after that you have up to a $4,000 parts and labor coverage after the manufacturers warranty runs out. This is like buying an extended warranty for each major component of your vehicle. To keep the warranty you HAVE to perform the service on the recommended intervals published by the chemical supplier.

For our motorcycles you will not have any coverage by using these products. However if you use a major oil product like Mobil, Valvoline, Shell/Pennzoil and have service records or receipts you will have assistance from the oil company if you actually have an oil related failure. For the record most failures are not oil related unless you put in the wrong oil in the first place. Most failures are due to mechanical design flaws or other catastrophic failures. Changing you oil as recommended with a quality product is all you need to do.

It amazing how passionate people get over oil and recommendations. The response of forum members that see them come and go says it all. I also sell Service Chemicals and refuse to sell any kind of "Motor Oil Additive". Why pay $20-25 per gallon for a high quality synthetic and ruin it with an additive?
 
With all the bloviating about oil and additives, I am amazed that no one has mentioned BG 44K fuel system cleaner, since the original question concerned BG products in general. Best darned injector cleaner I ever used in 25 years wrenching cars. I'll bet it works great on Motronic EFI but I haven't needed it yet.
 
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