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Yet another R11RT ABS Question

Jim Rogers

New member
Let me start by saying ÔÇ£Yes, I have searched this and other forums as well as other internet searches and have yet to find a similar situation.

2000 R11RT-P with ~70K on the clock. Ohlins (<3K miles front and rear), HID Headlight, Two Brothers CAT Eliminator, Power Commander III (Dyno tuned), New PR3s, CeeBailey Tall screen, Rick Mayer seat, Heavy Throttlemiesters, Cramp Buster.

Problem: Upper ABS Light does not come on during start-up self check (or any other time). Lower light acts normally for properly functioning ABS. (Flashes on first turning on ignition and extinguishes once bike starts moving) No maintenance performed between time when ABS indicators worked properly and this condition.


Troubleshooting To Date:
Replaced light bulb with known good bulb. Light does not come on/flash when ignition turned on. Put known good bulb back in position, works properly. Repeated same with proper new bulb. Light does not flash.
Attempted reset of ABS system using both the count to 8 and waiting full minute when depressing the ABS dash switch procedure. Upper light never comes on, lower light goes solid during procedure. After procedure and cycling ignition switch off then back on, lower light flashes normally.
Have performed fault code check using both 12V LED and analog VOM. LED comes on solid (no flashes) and VOM does not pulse.
Reseated all fuses in box under seat.
Battery is old but starts bike right up and stays on tender (Optimate 4) for ~one week each month. (I cycle the tender between 3 bikes, antique car, and standby generator.)

I am thinking it is just a fluke between the system and the bulb based on no fault codes and the lower light extinguishes when the bike gets underway. Any thoughts? I am getting ready to put her up for sale and want to be able to somewhat intelligently discuss this issue with potential buyers
 
No reason not to test the ABS really. But first off, do you hear the ABS pump test cycle itself when the bike first moves out after starting it? If so, then the ABS system is active, both front and rear. If either circuit was inactive, the ABS pump would not perform the cycle test. The "cycle test" sounds like you've run over an aluminum pie tin after the moves out at about three to five mph. If it does not do the cycle test, then the ABS is not active and it should be inspected to find out why.

The time to be aware how ABS works is NOT when you first need it in an emergency. Pick a clear, flat high traction surface and start at speeds below 45 mph if you have never done any ABS stops. Get up to speed and practice engaging the ABS first with the rear brake. Steady speed, head and eyes up looking well ahead, squeeze in the clutch and at the same time press quick and firm on the rear brake. Press hard enough until you feel/hear the ABS pump activate. You will leave a very slight tire mark on the pavement, but it should not slide.

Then when you are comfortable with that, work your way into the front brake. Again, steady speed, head and eyes up, arms braced but NOT locked firm. Squeeze in the clutch and also squeeze firm, quick and progressively on the front brake lever. When you engage the ABS you'll feel the front end pulse but the bike will stop straight, and quick.

I strongly advise everyone to practice high effort brake stops. For bikes with ABS I also advise at least some ABS stop practice, to get familiar with the bike and what you can do with it. I still practice high-effort brake stops and ABS stops to keep my skills sharp. This past Saturday I test rode an 07 R1200RT cosmetic crash damage bike I am buying. Once I confirmed the ABS is active, I did about six high effort stops from 60mph to engage the ABS, and confirm it is working properly. All is good and the bike has a new home and life.
 
Abs

You should really find a patch of gravel on a hard surface and go through with your brakes applied. Have some one watch to see if your wheels are releasing and rolling though the patch of gravel.

Then again if you don't feel like trying the gravel patch. Find some good pavement, get going about 36mph or more and try and lock up the front wheel. If the back tire comes off the ground and you are looking at the asphalt about 2 feet in front of the tire, you just might have an ABS problem.

Jon
 
It DOES pass the 'cycle test' noted by ANDYVH. Thanks for that piece if info. I wondered what that sound was. I now realize it would be wise to to an actual function check, as others have suggested. I will do that Sunday. Again, thanks to all for the help and suggestions.
 
Do the test on a dirt road

Find a firm flat stretch of ground on a dirt road to do your function test. I use my driveway every time I take the bike out.

If you get out of kilter and fall its doesn't hurt near as much as pavement or gravel covered pavement and the bike would fair much better also.
 
I use my yard to test the abs first, the grass is softer and will do much less damage if you have an oh nooooooo. I did not, but it is always a possibility.

At about 15 mph it will leave very clear and easy to see 1 foot long slide marks.

Then I moved to gravel, when confident I did pavement. Ohhhhhh, can this beast stop.

A firm grip with the legs on the tank is essential

Rod
 
Follow-up

Well, guys, I took the advice to actually function test the ABS, and myself. Tried to lock the wheels up on a dry, gravel free surface and got the response I should have. The ABS is working so I guess it is just a light fluke. That might be a winter project to correct. I even took the GSA out to see how the ABS worked on it. Thanks for the advice. End of input to thread.
 
I bought my 03 1150RT over a year ago and 6,000 miles and never heard the test noise. Maybe it's my hearing so I will have to ask a trusted friend to try it.

DAZ do you hear yours?
 
PAS, Your 03 RT has a different braking system. BMW went to the servo braking system in 2002 I believe. Linked braking system with the servo assist. My 04 RT has this system and there is no "clanking" noise when taking off from a stop. Now, my 96 GS has the old system and "clanks" quite nicely.
 
NAVYDAD, thanks for clearing that up, I almost had a sleepless night! I hoped my hearing wasnt that bad. I still havent tried getting the ABS to activate, the wet grass idea sound like a good idea.
 
To help alleviate any fear of road testing ABS, I'm happy to offer the following. Riding my '02 R1150RT home from the dealership. Steep downhill gravel then a turn into our driveway. All that perfectly painted, beautiful, expensive plastic. The thing brakes perfectly! A dicey proposition on my last 3 bikes over 11 years and this thing does it on autopilot! It always does.
 
The top light not lighting, and the ABS working correctly points to the ABS relay modification. Although generally the top light eventually comes on as the alternator spools up. One more place to check is the green wire coming from the large ABS plug on the left side of the bike under the tank. This wire powers the ABS, and if it has been spliced, it might go to a relay, delaying the light.
 
2000 R11RT-P -- Close Out of "Yet another R11RT ABS Question"

After trying to sell Hilda for quite some time, I realized I would never get close to getting out of her what I have in her. (Ohlins, Rick Mayer seat, Two Brothers exhaust, HID headlight, new PR3s, Throttle Meisters, CeeBailey screen, paint job, Power Commander III, etc) So, I am giving her to one of my sons-in-law. While getting her ready to transfer ownership (changing fluids, plugs, throttle balance, etc), I just could not get that dang non-functioning light monkey off my back. I gave the fuse/relay check just one more try. Low and behold, I discovered the ABS Warning Relay was not fully seated. I can only guess the last time I checked that stuff, either I did not check that particular relay or I did it improperly. Now, all is well. I hate telling on myself, but maybe this will help someone else.
 
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