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2000 R1100RT cutting out

limbo00rt

New member
After returning home from a 1300 mile road trip the bike was washed and refueled. The following day 10 blocks away from home it starts to surge, I pulled over and the bike dies. Restarts but cuts out immediately. Had it towed home and tried restarting. It runs normally but after 3-4 minutes cuts out again and again it restarts but cuts out. Checks fuel pressure and spark, everything seems normal and to spec. Running an external inline fuel filter and changing filter didn't help. What am I missing? Any insight is much appreciated! Thanks!
 
After returning home from a 1300 mile road trip the bike was washed and refueled. The following day 10 blocks away from home it starts to surge, I pulled over and the bike dies. Restarts but cuts out immediately. Had it towed home and tried restarting. It runs normally but after 3-4 minutes cuts out again and again it restarts but cuts out. Checks fuel pressure and spark, everything seems normal and to spec. Running an external inline fuel filter and changing filter didn't help. What am I missing? Any insight is much appreciated! Thanks!

Bad fuel??
 
After returning home from a 1300 mile road trip the bike was washed and refueled. The following day 10 blocks away from home it starts to surge, I pulled over and the bike dies. Restarts but cuts out immediately. Had it towed home and tried restarting. It runs normally but after 3-4 minutes cuts out again and again it restarts but cuts out. Checks fuel pressure and spark, everything seems normal and to spec. Running an external inline fuel filter and changing filter didn't help. What am I missing? Any insight is much appreciated! Thanks!

Welcome to the forum Donald. Some questions for you:
- When you say "it restarts but cuts out" does it stop suddenly or seem to starve for fuel and then stop running?
- Did the problem start immediately after refueling or did you ride home, it ran fine and the problem started after washing the bike?
- Did you pressure wash the bike or just by hand?
- How many miles are on your RT?
- Do you have the service records?
- I am curious to know the mileage and whether the hall effect sensor was ever replaced.
- When was the fuel filter last replaced?


It sounds as though you may be having a heat related failure but more info needed.
 
Thanks for the welcome! The bike was hand washed but I did spray dry with an air hose. Rode over to the gas station a 1/2 mile away putting in just about 2 gal of fuel. Back home and parked it till the next day when the problem started. Started the bike again this morning and it ran and idled normally for about 4 minutes then cuts out like I hit the shut off switch. Did not try to run it under load. Sounds like it wants to run on restart but cuts out immediately.
The bike has 70k and I have done all the maintenance since it had 6k. The Hall Sensor has not been replaced by me or on any of the records I have from the previous owner. Installed a new fuel filter just before the road trip.
In 2/09 and at 50k I installed the external filter and replaced the in tank filter with some regular fuel injection line not being able to locate any submersible line at the time. Could that line have deteriorated enough to collapse when the engine warms up? Or would that have shown up when I checked the fuel pressure?
 
Thanks for the welcome! The bike was hand washed but I did spray dry with an air hose. Rode over to the gas station a 1/2 mile away putting in just about 2 gal of fuel. Back home and parked it till the next day when the problem started. Started the bike again this morning and it ran and idled normally for about 4 minutes then cuts out like I hit the shut off switch. Did not try to run it under load. Sounds like it wants to run on restart but cuts out immediately.
The bike has 70k and I have done all the maintenance since it had 6k. The Hall Sensor has not been replaced by me or on any of the records I have from the previous owner. Installed a new fuel filter just before the road trip.
In 2/09 and at 50k I installed the external filter and replaced the in tank filter with some regular fuel injection line not being able to locate any submersible line at the time. Could that line have deteriorated enough to collapse when the engine warms up? Or would that have shown up when I checked the fuel pressure?

A split or cracked line would show up when you check the fuel pressure I wound think but I would not rule out a problem inside the tank. If you did not use fuel submersible rated line it might be deteriorated by now. Three years soaked in ethanol...

Right now I'd be leaning toward the hall sensor due to the mileage and the fact they all seem to go sooner or later. Also, if it is cutting right out as you describe, that sounds electrical. But it might be worth a look in the tank before you spend $219 on a new HES.

- Is your sidestand switch in good condition? If they get flaky the bike can cut out like this also.
 
Tomorrow I will place my order for a new Hall Sensor since there is no way to check them without a replacement. While waiting for the part I'll replace the fuel the in tank fuel line with the proper submersible hose too. Will check on the alternator output too but since the ABS check light cleared during that short run before the engine cut off, it should be functioning properly. Think that I replaced the side stand along with the switch when I first got the bike because the foot tab was broken off.
Thank you everyone for your input. Will let you know how it turns out Even if it still doesn't run, but I have faith that the Hall Sensor will work.
 
you can do a visual inspection on the HES wiring (good, but not perfect inspection); that is where they most frequently go bad.
 
running

"...you can do a visual inspection on the HES wiring ..."
Since the wire fails inside the shrink wrap underneath the clamp near the sensors, you have to actually split the shrink wrap to check it. Once inside the shrink wrap, the failure is REAL obvious. The insulation just completely dissolves, and once it starts arcing between wires you are toast.
 
I'll look into the wiring once everything is apart. Does the wiring going bad also fry the sensors too or can the wiring be repaired. Be nice to have a backup in the parts bag. Decided the change out the HES regardless just to be on the safe side rather getting stuck in the middle of nowhere since they seem to fail at just about the mileage and age the bike is now.
 
Got a chance today to strip off the shrink tubing from the HES while waiting on FedX for the new part. Found 3 of 4 wires just pass where the wires from the 2 sensors come together with cracks on the insulation. The call was on the money! Thanks! You guys rock! Installed the new HES today and only had time to run it for a few minutes and everything seems good to go. Will take it out for test run tomorrow before reinstalling the tupperware. Also replaced that fuel line where the in tank fuel filter was and it still looked good after 3 years, but installed the correct submersible line just to be on the safe side. Ready to have this back on the road!
 
Got a chance today to strip off the shrink tubing from the HES while waiting on FedX for the new part. Found 3 of 4 wires just pass where the wires from the 2 sensors come together with cracks on the insulation. The call was on the money! Thanks! You guys rock! Installed the new HES today and only had time to run it for a few minutes and everything seems good to go. Will take it out for test run tomorrow before reinstalling the tupperware. Also replaced that fuel line where the in tank fuel filter was and it still looked good after 3 years, but installed the correct submersible line just to be on the safe side. Ready to have this back on the road!

It's great when the symptoms and solution add up to a quick fix. Not always the case for sure but great to hear you are up and running.

It feels pretty good to fix your own bike, doesn't it? :dance
 
Look up Tom Cutter's shop. I hear he does waterproof HES rebuilds though I've never used his service. In case you don't know, he's a well known BMW racer and wrench...

Better plan on a correct hose job. If you didn't use submersible rated the stuff you did use will strand you sooner or later, probably sooner....Might cost you a pump in the process if left too long....
 
I've been considering replacing my HES due to the age of my bike and would prefer to take a proactive approach to replacing it. Anyway, has anyone rebuilt their HES, ie., wiring? What wire did you use for a high temp environment?
 
I've been considering replacing my HES due to the age of my bike and would prefer to take a proactive approach to replacing it. Anyway, has anyone rebuilt their HES, ie., wiring? What wire did you use for a high temp environment?

Have at it. See here: http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf

I read this great article by Dana Hager and decided to buy a new and improved one that already has higher temp rated teflon wire from euromotoelectric for $219. :wow


A friend rebuilds HES plates here in BC but he's well equipped with the right tools, extractors, replacement HES sensors and great hand skills. The correct wire is expensive and hard to buy in small amounts. It can be done!
 
Outstanding article with great technical info. Thanks!

Yeah he wrote quite a few excellent pieces. First rate technical writing. But I still like this solution http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BOSCH-Hall-Effect-Sensor-R1100-12-11-2-306-137-p/boignsen-r137.htm to get a bike on the road quickly and with improved materials that should not break down like the original did. Whoever picked that wire for this application clearly did not take into account the tremendous heat stress in that area of the engine. And BMW never did a recall on a pretty obvious design defect. I mean, they ALL go!
 
Dana Hager did a great job explaining how to rebuild the HES. I am grateful for his excellent instruction sheet. So, I don't want to be disrespectful in pointing out a slightly better material choice. As I have previously posted, I am not convinced that his wire choice is the best solution.

Wire failures are generally caused by one of the 4 conditions:

1. Casing threshold temperature is too low
2. Corrosion of the wire (yes, solid copper can corrode)
3. Overload of current through the wire.
4. Movement causes breakage.

Dana's solution only addresses the first condition. I am not convinced that there isn't a corrosion problem. One way to avoid the 2nd condition is to use Marine grade wire. That is, tinned wire.

I would use an oversized wire that is tinned along with a high-temp casing (such as TFE or other material). This would address the first 3 conditions, instead of just the 1st one. You only want to do this job once.

It is also important to make sure that the wire you order is solid copper, and not CCA or CCS. CCA and CCS wire is become popular due to the economy.
 
Where to get CHME56 Hall Effect Sensors

Just a quick post for anybody trying to purchase new Hall Effect Sensors. I used the hogwash technical article to repair my wiring that was bad.... and this did fix my no spark condition on my 1999 R1100-RTP .... however I was going to try and find the Honeywell 2AV54 Hall Effects Sensors to make sure of the fix. I was unable to locate any at Digikey or Mouser or anywhere else in the USA.

I did find a company at this web address: www.chenyang-ism.com that has CYHME56 units that duplicate the 2AV54. The 2 units cost me around $42 including shipping from Germany. At the time I ordered the units the company would accept a wire transfer of money or you could give them your credit card number.... however I was not able to do this due to my particular bank does not allow this. I was able to arrange the use of Paypal to get the money to them. I received the units about a week later in the mail and they look fine. I am going to keep them in case my K bike breaks. Anyhow the people at Chenyang were very helpful and went out of their way to supply my small order. I highly recommend them, and the cost is very fair.
 
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