Synthetic motor oil - R1200GSA 2011

I change my oil and filter every 10,000 km. (6,000 mi.)

Is there ANY advantage to using synthetic motor oil in my moto?
Other than the price, is there any disadvantage?

I've heard everything from "synthetic" is too slippery, or, use only semi synth., or ANY synth will ruin the engine, and so on...in the end, what's the OFFICIAL BMW word on this?

I don't want to void my guarantee and extended guarantee.

Thanks, Ness

As I understand it, the "Official" answer for warranty purposes is:

You must use an oil which meets the minimum specifications expressly stated in your owner's manual.

As to synth vs. dino, the question still is: Does the oil meet the minimum requirements stated in the owner's manual?

If it takes a synthetic to meet those specs, yes, it is required. If dino will meet the specs, then no, synth is not required. Your manual has the definitive answer.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


After the above, it's the endless Internet pros/cons debates, with a few facts, and lots of unsubstantiated opinions.

A couple facts:

-- Synth is generally more expensive than dino oil meeting the same specs.

-- Synth handles high heat better.

The latter point is not as much an issue with liquid-cooled engines with stable head temps, but it is a factor to consider in air-cooled engines -- particularly in the case of the oilheads/hexheads/camheads, which are designed to use a high flow of oil around the exhaust valve region of the heads to take heat out of the hottest region of the engine. This is the reason I personally opt for synth in my oil/camheads.

-- Synth flows better at very cold temps.

Whether synth is "slippier" (i.e., provides "better" lubrication) is where facts vs. self-rationalization starts coming into it. There may be theoretical advantages to synth, but the practical reality is that with oil in normal use and being changed every 6K mi., both provide more than adequate lubrication for the application.

So, for most folks, the issue is money vs. an unquantified amount of additional protection. Unless your manual's specs = only synth, it's up to you.

FWIW, BMW is now starting to put synth in a least some crankcases at the factory -- my K16GTL had synth in it. I am not sure, but I believe my 2012 R12RT also did -- and the dealer put synth in at the 600 mi. service. Was it necessary to meet the specs for my 2012? Don't know -- I'll have to read my manual this evening.

HTH!

ness said:

I've heard everything ...

Click to expand...

Most of the time the cost of synthetic oil is offset by the fact you can run it longer.

That is, there is basically zero disadvantage and multiple advantages. It's the 21st century and there is so little reason to continue using nonsynthetic motor oils. Fact is the real car companies, i.e. Porsche, Mercedes, BMW (cars) specify their use always. BMW motorcycles easily could, too, and I'm sure they'll update their specs when they get the courage.

But, there will remain plenty of unsubstantiated and unsustainable rumors like the things you've "heard." You know, if you're not "hearing" them from petroleum engineers and engine designers they're worthless by definition.

I'm a strong believer in quality synthetic oils... the newest Camheads (at least in my 2012 R1200R manual) doesn't list a requirement to stay on mineral oil for any period of time after the 600 mile break in.

I switched my bike over to synthetic at just over 2000 miles; did the oil change myself and opted to use Castrol TWS 10W60 which I got from my local BMW auto dealer. IF you can get a 20W50 pure synthetic (and you likely can't in the US), you should consider that also... and I've also heard from a BMW motored engineer that they're considering revising the oil list and might start to recommend "more strongly" the use of a pure synthetic 15W50..

Understand that if you're using a mineral oil of a certain viscosity that it may not flow as well as a synthetic oil of the SAME viscosity... don't confuse viscosity with flowability.

R1200RClassic said:

I'm a strong believer in quality synthetic oils... the newest Camheads (at least in my 2012 R1200R manual) doesn't list a requirement to stay on mineral oil for any period of time after the 600 mile break in.

Click to expand...

Cut and pasted from page 149 of the 2011 Rider's Manual:
BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic oils for the first 10000 km.
(6000 miles)

Many camheads use a lot of oil until broken in. BMW feels that synthetic oil is so slippery it can prevent the engine breaking in properly. Once oil consumption has diminished, synthetic provides lower friction and superior service life.

32232 said:

Cut and pasted from page 149 of the 2011 Rider's Manual:
BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic oils for the first 10000 km.
(6000 miles)

Click to expand...

Sadly there is no page 149 in the 2012 manual, nor is there any mention of synthetic oil (not unless you infer it form the viscosity's approved)..

Having talked to BMW both here and in Germany ad nauseum over the past week, I get the over all impression that the mineral oil is on its way out soon with all new bikes, including boxers.

Many camheads use a lot of oil until broken in. BMW feels that synthetic oil is so slippery it can prevent the engine breaking in properly. Once oil consumption has diminished, synthetic provides lower friction and superior service life.

Click to expand...

Interestingly at the 600 mile change where I went to a mineral 20w50 at the dealer, he told me it had essentially burned VERY little oil... and when I took it out at 2000 miles, there was no measurable oil burn... maybe 1/4 liter at best but that's hard to measure.. I was able to refill my 4 liter bottles almost to the top of each is how I measured. Whether it's because I broke in the engine well (I did the method of using higher rpm frequently with in the limited of the breaking period). The old "Ride it like you stole it" method works well to seat the piston rings which is the problem when people over baby a new engine and it continues to burn oil...

this is a very good video btw for the OP to watch....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZivhWIM0Q8s

32232 said:

Cut and pasted from page 149 of the 2011 Rider's Manual:
BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic oils for the first 10000 km.
(6000 miles)

Many camheads use a lot of oil until broken in. BMW feels that synthetic oil is so slippery it can prevent the engine breaking in properly. Once oil consumption has diminished, synthetic provides lower friction and superior service life.

Click to expand...

Neither the dealer supplied owners manual for my 2011 rt nor the digital version say anything about oil on page 149. Ar should sure you have the correct year OM?

R1200RClassic said:

I'm a strong believer in quality synthetic oils... the newest Camheads (at least in my 2012 R1200R manual) doesn't list a requirement to stay on mineral oil for any period of time after the 600 mile break in.

I switched my bike over to synthetic at just over 2000 miles; did the oil change myself and opted to use Castrol TWS 10W60 which I got from my local BMW auto dealer. IF you can get a 20W50 pure synthetic (and you likely can't in the US), you should consider that also... and I've also heard from a BMW motored engineer that they're considering revising the oil list and might start to recommend "more strongly" the use of a pure synthetic 15W50..

Understand that if you're using a mineral oil of a certain viscosity that it may not flow as well as a synthetic oil of the SAME viscosity... don't confuse viscosity with flowability.

Click to expand...

Doesn't Mobil have a 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil? I imagine Amsoil would as well.

Ponch1 said:

Doesn't Mobil have a 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil? I imagine Amsoil would as well.

Click to expand...

apparently these are available in the US, but not overseas yes.. which is partly why BMW left that spec out of the book.. Again, I understand the new recommendations by BMW are for a 15W50 synthetic however which can be found in their latest dealer sheet (part #07 51 0 394 083).

R1200RClassic said:

apparently these are available in the US, but not overseas yes.. which is partly why BMW left that spec out of the book.. Again, I understand the new recommendations by BMW are for a 15W50 synthetic however which can be found in their latest dealer sheet (part #07 51 0 394 083).

Click to expand...

Oh, for sure available overseas as Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and 15W-50

Rumor has it also available at USA Triumph dealers but not in my town.

http://www.mobil.com/UK-English/Lubes/PDS/EUXXENPVLMOMobil1Racing4T.aspx

Tain't puttin' nothing in my bike that says "V-twin" on it, but if I could find this 15W-50 in the USA it would be my oil. Until then, Castrol Power RS Racing 4T, 10W-50.

oil thread

my manual says use 10=40,in my 2011 R1200RT,

Well, isn't a BMW flat twin, basically a V-Twin with a really WIDE included angle?

But the biggest difference is our twins get equal cooling to both cylinders. Not like the heat-sink known as the rear cylinder on any Harley.

lkchris said:

Oh, for sure available overseas as Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and 15W-50

Rumor has it also available at USA Triumph dealers but not in my town.

http://www.mobil.com/UK-English/Lubes/PDS/EUXXENPVLMOMobil1Racing4T.aspx

Tain't puttin' nothing in my bike that says "V-twin" on it, but if I could find this 15W-50 in the USA it would be my oil. Until then, Castrol Power RS Racing 4T, 10W-50.

Click to expand...

I meant you can't easily find 20W50 synthetic in Europe and overseas... the 10w50 and 15w50 IS readily available all over.

But yeah, I'm still keen on the 10W=>50 in mine too.

If I switch to synthetic, it'll be the mobil 1 20w-50 motorcycle oil. Right now I use castrol 4t dino.

Living in Montreal, I think the Mobil 4T 10-W40 is a great choice. I'm west of Boston, and like you the cold weather performance, where most wear occurs is important. The 10W rating drove my selection.

If you were to buy a dino 10W40, it starts as a 10W oil that is thickened with VI Improvers which break down over time. The synthetics start as 40W oils that are constructed for 10W like cold-pouring performance.

I'm AZ now, so 10w-40 won't be used anymore. It gets hot here.

Ponch1 said:

I'm AZ now, so 10w-40 won't be used anymore. It gets hot here.

Click to expand...

spent 10 years in the Phoenix/Peoria area until moving to Oregon last year.... you are correct... I'd go at LEAST 50W if not the 60, and pure synthetic, even if you're not spending time in traffic..

R1200RClassic said:

I meant you can't easily find 20W50 synthetic in Europe and overseas...

Click to expand...

Got it.

But of course when talking synthetics, the lower number is basically meaningless.. I one time checked the cold-pour specs for various Mobil 1 varieties and they were all the same at something like -55F. The 15-W-50 might have been -50 instead, but bottom line is there is no cold performance concern with synthetic oil.

lkchris; said:

....but bottom line is there is no cold performance concern with synthetic oil.

Click to expand...

This is a fact lost on many.