Very Basic Tech Notes
Hi, I took notes in the Very Basic Tech presentation. It was well organized and made my rally trip.
Here are the notes for others. They are draft and I didn't proof read them.
A) 'Learn your bike'
Find the signatures on the bike. 'Know your bike'.
a1) Look for bolts coming loose or backing out.
a2) Look for how oil marks on the engine look normally.
b1) Pressure and proper inflation.
Most tires have can take pressures either less or more than the manual states. Tires that take less pressure than the manual may not have the load rating for the bike, and should be returned. Paul had a friend that had this issue.
Tire Pressure settings:
Old bikes use by-ass tires and can go up 10% higher pressure when the tire is warm/hot.
Radial tires are on most bikes can go up 6-8 psi when they are hot.
If the temperature goes higher, they may be under inflated. If temperature does not rise, they may be over inflated. Cold and hot pressure can be a good indicator if the tire is inflated properly.
70F is the normal cold temperature for tires.
b2) Wear indicators exist on all modern tires. Find out where they are and monitor them.
b3) Tire age.
Tire age can create dry and hard tires that slip out. This is dangerous. If tires are hard they are probably expired. The sun's rays burn out the oils. Additionally, heat and cooling can cause them to dry out quicker. Time also causes dry tires. Most tires are good for 5 years. They last longer in storage if they are kept out the sun and kept at a stable temperature.
New tires have a 4 digit birth day on them. First two digits are year. Second two digits are the week.
For example, '0901' would be 2009 1-7th day of the year.:
Old tires over 12 years have a 3 digit number. Don't use them. They are expired.
20W ΤΗτ 50 Best for summer.
Synthetic has a wider temperature range for use.
Oil changes are needed depending on the use. Oil changes are at every 6000 miles unless there is extreme riding. Extreme riding conditions are dusty roads, a lot of cold weather riding, or a lot of short rides.
5000K is an easier number to remember for oil changes.
D) Transmission and Final drive
80W-90 and 75w-90 with a GL5 rating are acceptable substitutes.
Buy magnetic drain plugs can help to help pull out any metal in the transmission and final drive. :
(check this) 180ml is the new recommended volume of fluid.
It was 230 originally.
Most break pads have a grove in them to tell you when they worn. If the grove is gone, you need new pads. Break fluids absorb moisture over time so it is important to change it every year. If not changed, moisture can enter.
Moisture reduces the boiling point of the fluid. If moisture is in the fluid and then fluid boils from use, A low boiling point can cause the breaks to fail.
'Disk quiet' helps get out the squeak. If you get oil on the pads, you will have to replace them.
Clutch cables fail 90% of the time at the top. Make sure you grease the cables at the top if replaced.
Observe what comes on when you turn the key. This also falls under 'Know your motorcycle'. If you understand what is supposed to happen, you will be able to detect issues. Listen to sounds. Electrical issues may come with different sounds when you turn the key or different light up patterns.
Side stand switches fail frequently. Fuel gauge strips fail frequently.
Keep the electrical contacts clean. Use an 'Electric cleaner' like 'CRC brand '. Wd-40 can be used in an emergency.
The time you will be on the road dictates how much tools you need. The longer you are out and destination may require you to carry more tools. However a basic tool kit should have a tire plug kit, air, fuses, a needle nose pliers with cutter, electrical tape. If you ride at night, take a spare headlight, a tail light, turning signals. Also for longer trips you might want to carry sockets, and wrenches.
Carry good tools. Cheap tools can break, mess up parts or cause injury. Paul recommends craftsman or snap-on. Also cheap Allan wrenches are the worst for destroying parts.
A minimal of 10,13,17mm sockets should be brought.