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1150GS seat height

B

buckeyeclark

Guest
Okay since I am 46 the odds of my legs getting any longer are remote at best. My bike has a Russell day long seat that I love but I am on my tippy toes when stopped. What are my options, other than getting a different bike, for getting a little more of my feet on the ground?
 
Okay since I am 46 the odds of my legs getting any longer are remote at best. My bike has a Russell day long seat that I love but I am on my tippy toes when stopped. What are my options, other than getting a different bike, for getting a little more of my feet on the ground?

I think there is only one. Lower the bike slightly with different shocks.

I'm 5'10" with a 30" inseam and that makes me too short for most BMW bikes, especially the GS models. But I've had to tip toe bikes since I was 15 and the thing is you do get used to it and there are ways to compensate like picking where you choose to stop more carefully. I know that is not always possible and once in a while things get more exciting than is optimal but you do adjust and adapt.
 
Okay since I am 46 the odds of my legs getting any longer are remote at best. My bike has a Russell day long seat that I love but I am on my tippy toes when stopped. What are my options, other than getting a different bike, for getting a little more of my feet on the ground?
Do you try to put both feet down when you stop?

The reason I ask is I have a 30" inseam on a tall day, and I ride my wife's R1150GS with no issues -- but that is in large part because I'm comfortable with *only* putting my left foot down, and further not feeling a need to put my entire left foot into contact with the ground (i.e., I'm usually on the ball of the foot at a stop). FWIW, my R12RT with standard seat is even more of a reach than the GS. For me, riding technique/practice/developing confidence has eliminated the need to modify the bike.

Not bragging or saying this is the only "right" solution -- just offering up the idea as an alternative to lowering your bike, which can be a pita (e.g., which you swap in sorter shocks, you need to modify the centerstand to make it sorter, and the sidestand will make the bike stand more upright/be more tippy).
 
What about the low seat I have seen mentioned?
I avoid them due to thin/uncomfortable padding. By the time you add cushions to make them livable, you're back up to standard height anyway.

You may be able to get one of the custom seat makers to build a relatively comfortable low seat (Russell, Mayer (Rick or Rocky)).
 
Before you try different shocks, you could try changing the preset on the rear shock. I moved mine to a lighter setting, which was good for me, but in the process, it also lowered the bike and center of gravity, which has also been good for me.
I also like the boot idea :)
 
Sell the Russell seat and get a seat with a narrower profile. If your legs don't straddle a wide seat they can extend down to the ground easier.
 
Be advised that lower rear shocks can make it a real P.I.T.A. (and spine) to heave the bike up on to the centerstand.

If you go with a custom seat, get a layer of gel in it to compensate for less foam - the stuff works great.

Avoid Rocky...
 
Seat height and short legs

When I was shopping around for a bike a few years ago, I stopped at the local HD shop. Since I'm 5'6" and am quite comfy in 29" inseam pants, I asked the very young salesman if there was some sort of "rule of thumb" about bike size and/or seat height for those of us who are vertically challenged. He was very close to my same size and simply said, "If you can throw your leg over it, you can ride it." I thought him a bit of a smarta$$ and went on to buy an 1100RS. Well, I can throw my leg over it, but I definitely can't flat-foot it. Initially it was a bit uncomfortable, but after riding it for a while, it feels totally natural. So, my suggestion is to simply put some miles on that bike. I'm betting it'll get more normal as you roll up the miles.
 
Solutions

1 Change the shocks out (expensive)
2 Buy a lower seat (expensive and you suffer on long rides)
3 Build some height in your boots. A cobbler can add 3/4 of an inch of sole on BMW type boots and (or) you can buy oversized boots and add some inserts in them until the boot fits your foot well. This can add another half inch.

Lowering the bike with shorter shocks can render your center stand inoperable and make you afraid to use your side-stand on a windy day. Some people have had to spend 300 dollars to lower their stands.

The best advice I have is to buy a stock bike that fits you from the start.
 
If you ever rode very tall off road bikes you learn the very simple concept that one flat foot on the ground is better than two sets of tippy toes. Just slide that left cheek off the side of the seat and you're good to go, or stop might be more what you're after.:laugh
 
Lowering

You can lower your 1150 very inexpensively by changing out the shocks with an 1150RT front and rear. Then you sell the 1150 GS shocks.

The 1150 GS kickstand is inherently too short, so no need to modify it.

If you are interested in a set of 1150RT shocks and/or an after market lifting handle let me know. Jon
 
Sell the Russell seat and get a seat with a narrower profile. If your legs don't straddle a wide seat they can extend down to the ground easier.

THIS is your best first option!!!!!!!!!!!!!

lowering the bike itself upsets the steering geometry and ground clearance, both things you would probably like to avoid doing. lowering the adjustment at the rear shock (preload setting) may do bad things to your sag settings, also unwanted.
Unlike the Russell (or Corbin), Rick Mayer's saddles are built to you, and he goes with a pretty narrow profile at the nose, which makes reaching the ground easier than on a stock saddle.
 
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