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Alaska Trip

lrccci

New member
I would like to plan a trip to Alaska. I am looking for info on traveling to there on my RT. I live in southern CA and would like to ride there, but don't know what to expect, once I get north of Washington state. What is the route from there and what can I expect in the way of road conditions and accommodations? Are there any books on this subject? Thanks for any info that you can send me.undefined
 
Go, but don't be a Tourist

:thumb
lrccci said:
I would like to plan a trip to Alaska. I am looking for info on traveling to there on my RT. I live in southern CA and would like to ride there, but don't know what to expect, once I get north of Washington state. What is the route from there and what can I expect in the way of road conditions and accommodations? Are there any books on this subject?
I've been there twice on a motorcycle, 1996 on a K100LT (not exactly the perfect bike for AK) and last year on an 1150GS (close to being the perfect bike for AK). Two trips don't make me any kind of expert, but there are some things I can tell you.
~The best time to ride AK is 1 July to Aug 20 or so. That's past black fly and the heaviest rainy season.
~Your first reference should be The Milepost, which I have seen for sale in the large chain bookstores. Make sure you get the 2005 edition - it changes every year.
~There's a saying amongst riders up there that any road information that is not first hand, or is more than 24 hours old is useless. I have found that to be true. Bad information is worse than no information.
~There are a million naysayers, who will tell you war stories about riding AK. Most, if not all of them have not ridden there. Those who have will tell you to GO.
~As the adage goes, AK has two seasons: winter and construction. It's true. Crews move incredibly fast up there. One day, the road is fine, but needs repaving. The next day, the road is gone - from right-of-way to right-of-way. Mud, sand, gravel, boulders, dust, blasting, you name it. Third day, they are hauling, dumping, dozing, leveling, grading. Fourth day, they are paving. Fifth day, you hardly know they've been there; 30 miles of new road.
~Your RT should do just fine. Go with an all purpose tire, but not nubbies necessarily.
~Expect stone damage to lights and Tupperware. Protect what you love and need the most.
~To keep dust down, they use what I think is Calcium Carbonate, or such. Mixed with dirt, it makes a form of concrete. Wash your bike frequently, especially hot engine parts. Once that stuff has set, you'd need almost a jackhammer to get it off.
~Expect your bike to age significantly on the trip. It will. AK really isn't the best place to take your show bike - it will be mildly (or wildly) trashed depending on how and where you ride.
~Remember that a nice, hard, packed, gravel road in AK can turn into a quagmire in a long heavy rain.
~Look out for forest fires. You'll have plenty of warning, but they take most of the fun out of riding BC, Yukon, and AK - last year was a disaster for riding in early July. If I knew then what I know now, I would have turned around and gone someplace more fun. You can't see much except the centerline in a fire area.
~Keep in mind that you will probably ride more miles in BC and Yukon than AK, and study accordingly.
~You will find the locals to be exceptionally friendly and helpful.
~Consider going to the Last Frontier rally north of Anchorage. It's the world's friendliest rally, with great people, who come from everywhere.
~Don't forget your passports. You will move from CA to the US several times.
~Excellent service is available for BMW riders in Anchorage. Also George Rahl (sp?) at Trail's End BMW in Fairbanks can be very helpful, but quirky. Call ahead if you know you're gonna need an oilchange or new tire, and know in advance.
~Follow the rules for bears, etc. if you're camping.
~Consider taking the Alaska Marine Highway one way, maybe. It's gotten pricey, but it's a magnificent cruise. Last year, it cost about $350 for me, $350 for the bike, and $300 for a stateroom for the ride all the way from Haines to Bellingham. If it hadn't been for the forest fires, I would have ridden it. YMMV.
~Most important, remember that AK is not your sandbox to play in. It is beautiful and challenging, but it is serious riding. As a businessman in Dawson City told me, "You're in the wilderness up here, boy. You know what that means? That means you ride outa here tonight, and fall off, we'll maybe find your shoes next Spring. That's what wilderness means." Or as George Rahl put it, "We got two kinds of BMW bikers up here - we got riders and we got tourists. And the tourists more often than not leave their motorcycle up here and go home on a plane. Don't be a Tourist."

Jim
 
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jim - great post!

irccci - check out advrider.com ride reports. lots of folks head up to alaska over there. then post a great ride report over here so we build more of a body of experience on the MOA site!

and regarding bears, it's like corporate america - you dont have to outrun the bear, just the slowest camper. ;)
 
I second what Jim is saying......

One last note: Call the Motorcycle Shop 907-561-1165 ASAP to set up any type of service you might require at about the time you will be here. They usually try to help get the traverlers in and out but any type of notice will be appreciated. I was just over there about an hour ago and their services lead time is already three weeks out. I made an appointment for a 12K sevice for May 31, :thumb

Duct tape works wonders for protecting painted plastic pieces......It looks like crap but, it is better than paint chips and rock dings. Besides, duct tape is an Alaska staple. You can find it in most any store and in Every home!

Have fun and ride smart!!
 
Thanks everyone for the info, it really helped. I will probably go someday,sounds like it would be a lot of fun. I'm the kinda of guy that gets all the information I can get, then studies it throughly before I make a decision. Looks like I will need to get a GS model. I told my wife ,when I bought the RT ,that would be my last motorcycle purchase. Oh well, never say never!
 
GS isn't required

lrccci said:
Looks like I will need to get a GS model.
I hope nothing I said indicates you NEED a GS to go to AK. Your RT will do a very credible job up there for the most part. Sure better than the Gold Wings, Harleys, and my old LT, who have made it home and given their riders a fun time.

It's just that the GS is close to the perfect bike for AK. That's because it carries a lot of baggage, has a durable suspension that takes road and rider abuse without complaints, and doesn't have a lot of shiny stuff to get dirty. On rutted gravel and in construction zones, the spoked wheels are a big asset. But the rugged dependability of the RT is plenty good enough. Just take it a mite easier on the holes and ruts. And slow down a little on the frost heaves. And if you have the amazing, collapsible three spoke wheels (well known BMW safety feature), keep a lot of air in the tires.

And remember, you'll have some frontal protection on the brisk rides up and back. Last year, in huge crosswinds in Manitoba and Alberta, I envied my riding partner on his K12LT. He envied my GS whenever the pavement ended.

GO!

Jim
 
Jim wrote:
~Consider taking the Alaska Marine Highway one way, maybe. It's gotten pricey, but it's a magnificent cruise. Last year, it cost about $350 for me, $350 for the bike, and $300 for a stateroom for the ride all the way from Haines to Bellingham.

But you can save the money for the stateroom. If you have a tent you can set it up on deck, or you can sleep in one of the many lounge chairs. Lots of people do. Showers are readily available.

It is a wonderful highlight to the trip. When Paul and I went we rode up and cruised back to Prince Rupert, and then took the Yellowhead highway. A never to be forgotten trip! Just go!!

And no, you don't need a GS.

Voni
sMiling
 
Last edited:
Jim Shaw said:
IIt's just that the GS is close to the perfect bike for AK.

Agreed, and for all the reasons Jim mentions. Your RT will do just fine, but the GS is the ideal.

To help you with planning, good friend Tom Bowman wrote a great article about preparation and for packing your bike to ride to Alaska. These are on "dark" pages on our site, so I've given you links straight to them. We rode there together in 1998 and posted our adventures on the Internet well before it was easy to do such things.

Bigtok-web.jpg


One of the best riding days of my life occured between Whitehorse, YT and Tok, AK. We rode alllllllllllll day long, stopped at the Salmon Bake restaurant.... which featured all you can eat Salmon, Halibut, beef ribs and reindeer sausage... and then free camping for diners. Oh yeah! :clap

Don't miss the Denali Highway!

Wish I was going with you!

Ian
 
I wouldn't fret too much about having to buy a new GS to make it up there. I know a guy who went clear up to Prudhoe Bay on a severely clapped out R80/7. Remeber what Nietzsche said:
"Be bold and mighty forces will come to your aid."
 
And there's Bob Hall who rode his stock R11RT to Prudhoe Bay - and back - to win the 2001 Iron Butt Rally.

Voni
sMiling
 
Gotta go, gotta go

lrccci said:
I will probably go someday,sounds like it would be a lot of fun. I'm the kinda of guy that gets all the information I can get, then studies it throughly before I make a decision. Looks like I will need to get a GS model. I told my wife ,when I bought the RT ,that would be my last motorcycle purchase. Oh well, never say never!
No, no, too late now. You asked, and we went to all this trouble spilling our guts on truths and fantasies of an AK trip. Now, it's your turn - you gotta go. This summer! No backing out. Gas up the RT, check the air and oil, put the kids in the kennel and the pets in boarding school. Pack five sets of undies, the Milepost and a warm shirt. Leave a note for the post office. Turn off the coffee pot, and pedal down the driveway. About July 1st would be right.

Jim :wave
 
Good advice by Jim and others. Here's some additional input:

The Milepost: Alaska is available through Whitehorse Press www.whitehorsepress.com

Alaska by Motorcycle: How to Motorcycle To Alaska by Greg Frazier is also available through Whitehorse Press. Greg may be a bit of a curmudgeon, but he's made a number of Alaska trips, and his advice will give you lots of ideas.

There are alternatives to the Alcan ("Alaska-Canadian") highway. As Voni Glaves pointed out, you can take the Alaska Ferry (Alaska Marine Highway) between Haines and Prince Rupert, or all the way to Bellingham (90 mi N Seattle) There is also a BC ferry between N Vancouver Island and Prince Rupert. (W terminus of "Yellowhead Highway")

I mention the ferries because boats ARE the main highway in SE Alaska. Ferry tolls may seem excessive, but can turn out to be cheap compared to getting your bike trashed in a construction zone, or plated with calcium chloride.

The roads in BC and Yukon are wild and scenic, but you can never assume you'll be able to ride a motorcycle on your planned schedule. Construction, weather, forest fires, etc. may require that you delay a few days or take a different route. For instance, if the weather is good, definitely ride the Cassiar #37, but if the weather is miserable, you'll appreciate the ferry ride instead. Alaskans are used to this, and able to alter travel plans according to what's happening.

I'm off to Hyder myself on Monday, ferry to Vancouver Island, ride north, Ferry to Prince Rupert, ride E, N on 37 to Mesiadin junction, W on 37A to Stewart & Hyder. Southbound will be 37 back to Yellowhead, E to Prince George, S on 97 through the Frazer Canyon to Hope, W on 1 to Abbotsford, S to WA state.

I'm taking the ferry north because it's on the right schedule. I'm riding south because I don't want to wait for the next boat. As it happens, the ferry may be a good idea because of the weather pattern at this time.

What's a good "adventure touring" bike? Get on your bike and go somewhere. When you get there, stand back and look at your bike. It's an adventure touring bike.

pmdave
 
Yes, GO! Having riden up there on a Yamaha TDM850 I agree with those here that say you dont NEED a GS. However it would be most fun on a Honda Trail 90. :thumb
 
Ferrys?

Thanks for the info. Will I need to make reservations for these Ferry boats , or can you just show up?
 
lrccci said:
Thanks for the info. Will I need to make reservations for these Ferry boats , or can you just show up?
For the Alaska Marine Highway, if you want to camp on deck, you can probably just show up a few hours before sailing. To book a stateroom during July and August, you will have to reserve in advance - they sell out quickly. If you are merely going from Prince Rupert to Haines, it's just two nights, so sleeping on deck or in a lounge chair is probably fine. From Bellingham, I'd try for a stateroom. YMMV.

On the BC Ferries, there are no staterooms, and no advance booking that I know of. They can generally always accomodate a motorcycle and rider. Just be sure to get to the dock when they tell you. BC Ferries have food on board, so that's no problem. BC Ferries are also much less expensive than the AMH.

Last year, the Cassiar Highway (37) was undergoing a LOT of construction, so some California GS riders with immediate experience influenced me not to take it. This year could be completely different.

Jim
 
lrccci said:
I would like to plan a trip to Alaska. I am looking for info on traveling to there on my RT. I live in southern CA and would like to ride there, but don't know what to expect, once I get north of Washington state. What is the route from there and what can I expect in the way of road conditions and accommodations? Are there any books on this subject? Thanks for any info that you can send me.undefined

I rode to Alaska / YT / NWT back in 1999 on an R11rs. Here's my trip report, including lists of gear, etc:

http://www.ibmwr.org/pastevnt/grosjeanalaska/alaska.html

We ferried north, rode back on the Cassiar Hwy, after doing much of the Dempster.

I took an Oilhead RS because it had a big alternator, a comfy seat, good suspension, and it was what I owned at the time. Now I own an Airhead GS and a Concours and a DR-350s, and if I were leaving next month for Alaska I'd get a big alternator for the GS, and maybe a kickstart just in case, and go. The Concours is slightly more comfy, but I'd rather have a "dirtier" bike under me if given the choice between several different machines. In 1999, I didn't have as many choices, and the DR-350 wasn't chosen due to lack of comfort.

Regarding the rest of this thread - I haven't seen any bad advice anywhere in it.

Oh, and regarding ferry boats - I called a year ahead, and was told if I was willing to camp we could just show up. That's *almost* what we did.... ended up calling just a couple days before to confirm there was room. I was told that staterooms and space for RV's in the hold fills up early. A motorcyclist willing to camp could almost always be squeezed in somewhere.

Best,
Doug Grosjean
Luckey, Ohio
www.douggrosjean.com
 
Outstanding advice from Jim. I've done the trip in a cage (driving from FL to AK) and that was the experience of a lifetime. I WILL go back in a couple of years on two wheels. And I plan to do so on my airhead RS and don't expect any serious trouble doing so.
 
Yukon/Dempster Travel

Its interested to read about people riding up to Alaska/Yukon/Dempster Aiway. Our club ride these roads all the time, and not even think about it anymore. After 29 years living in Inuvik its all old hat. Took the Cassiar highway and the Dempster highway a couple of times last year with not a problem. Usually ride a R1150RT and been on the Alaska Ferry system also. The Inuvik club is riding to the www.rideyukon.com rally in Whitehorse this year in Whitehorse, so I hope to some of can make it there. Then its off to Lima. I really do not see why you would just ride up to the Arctic Circle, and turn around. Everyone should just continue up to Inuvik, and then fly up to Tuk for a swim in the Arctic Ocean.
 
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