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Thread: Bringing my R60/5 back to life.

  1. #61
    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
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    You don't need to rebuild the top-end to replace pushrod tube seals, in fact some people don't even undo the two nuts securing the head to the cylinder when they replace them, just the 4 rocker arm nuts that secure everything to the engine studs. I didn't follow this thread from the beginning, so maybe there's a reason to rebuild, but definitely not just for leaky pushrod tube seals.

    bike's looking good though, keep it up
    // 1975 BMW R90/6 (cafe'd) // 1957 BMW R60 (in pieces) // 1967 Aermacchi/H-D Sprint 250 SS (custom special) // 1973 VW Type 181 Custom SOLD )

    http://symphonyofshrapnel.blogspot.com

  2. #62
    Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
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    Nice job!

    Barron

  3. #63
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Just pulling back to replace the pushrod tube seals doesn't take into account the two small o-rings at the top studs. Also, it can be complicated to clean the sealing surface and put down a new thin layer of sealant if you only pull it out just for the pushrod tube seals. I suppose it can be done, but you're working in close quarters.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Typ181R90 View Post
    You don't need to rebuild the top-end to replace pushrod tube seals, in fact some people don't even undo the two nuts securing the head to the cylinder when they replace them, just the 4 rocker arm nuts that secure everything to the engine studs. I didn't follow this thread from the beginning, so maybe there's a reason to rebuild, but definitely not just for leaky pushrod tube seals.

    bike's looking good though, keep it up
    Godo to know, part of it is that it has 45k miles on it, and has sat at times. I assume its all pretty good in there, but want to take a look at everything, and replace all the gaskets / seals in the top end. Once I have it apart I will have a good idea if I am going to have to do a more complete head / jug servicing (hopefully not). Luckily its only an R60 so relatively low heat, and I dont think it has ever been ridden really hard.

    Thanks for the advice.

  5. #65
    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Just pulling back to replace the pushrod tube seals doesn't take into account the two small o-rings at the top studs. Also, it can be complicated to clean the sealing surface and put down a new thin layer of sealant if you only pull it out just for the pushrod tube seals. I suppose it can be done, but you're working in close quarters.
    yeah Kurt, when I did mine I took everything apart and changed all seals + cleaned everything really well (though I did have my heads off for rebuilding). I've just heard of a bunch of people going the "express" route
    // 1975 BMW R90/6 (cafe'd) // 1957 BMW R60 (in pieces) // 1967 Aermacchi/H-D Sprint 250 SS (custom special) // 1973 VW Type 181 Custom SOLD )

    http://symphonyofshrapnel.blogspot.com

  6. #66
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    She is back on the road! I got all my DMV paperwork finished up on friday, started her, let all the dust and muck burn off for a while (have not started the bike in a couple weeks) and I was off. I was surprised how rusty I was at first, but it all came back to me really quickly.

    There were lots of adjustments, the valve covers are both dripping. I rode out to the bmw dealership and picked up some new gaskets (which I know I have a set somewhere in the garage). The front brake was loose, the rear brake was too tight (got hot). The clutch was also slipping a bit when I got on it. So I adjusted everything, need to double check the clutch adjustment a little more closely, but overall she ran wonderfully. Rode all over SF, and up to Sutro Tower.

    Still to do in the immediate future:
    - Try to get the valve cover / oil pan to stop dripping. I ordred a silicon valve cover and oil pan gaskets, as well as a helicoil kit and tap guide. I know I have at least one screw that is a little stripped for the oil pan.
    - Re-adjust the clutch.
    - Grease all the wheel bearing
    - Adjust rear wheel gap (I have a set of shims that I do not think I ever sent Duane a check for, so I will definitely send him a check, 4 years late is better then never)
    - Run it a few hundred miles, add some oil detergent to the engine / trans / drive / final and drive for a few miles before replacing everything.
    - have new seat mounts fabricated for the corbin seat (the ones that come with it are absolute crap, always bend loose almost as soon as I sit on the bike)

    I have to say I forgot exactly how much I love this bike. Everywhere I stopped someone complimented it. I really attribute that to the chrome tank. It was a pleasure to ride around on an unseasonable warm SF summer day.

    Thanks again everyone for all the help.

    Going to enjoy it through the summer then dive into powder coating the frame / painting the metal work / vapor blasting the engine case / having the speedo rebuilt /

  7. #67
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    So after a few weeks the bike is running great. I am so glad to have her back. I also got my 01 Dakar back on the road this week. Nice to have the pair. The R60 is leaking a little oil from the valve covers and the oil pan. I have picked up some silicon gaskets, and am going to replace all three with silicon next time I do an oil change (probably in a few hundred miles).

    I am also getting some smoking from the right pipe. Not a ton, and it is not really collecting, but you can see it a bit. I am still thinking I will do a top end rebuild next winter. 45k miles seems like a good time for it. Also thinking about doing

    This bike has always had a bit of a rattle, usually when I am first taking off and lugging the engine a little. Is this common? Anyone know what this might be if it is not common. I am assuming it is something under the tank or lower, that just hits a certain vibration that lets it hit something. I may take a video to better explain.

    I also have a minor shot down oddity. When I turn it sometimes sputters out like a really old car (think model T) would. I assume this is just carb mix but would also like to know if anyone has any insight into this.

    Thanks again.

    Here is a quick pic of the bike up at Sutro Tower over-look here in SF. It was the first place I took her.

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