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Bleeding brakes on 1150RT with abs?
- Thread starter gnrogers
- Start date
NavyDad
New member
Yes and there are plenty of how to threads online to help. I have the servo brake system on my 04 RT and I do mine every year. Probably overkill, but makes me feel better. It does take a bit of time and even longer on the first try. I usually allow about two hours to do the brakes and clutch. Not a difficult job, just time consuming. Save yourself some $$$ and go for it. Here is a good article for the servo brakes. http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf I know it looks intimidating, but really not bad at all.
Speed Bleeder
Here's another ('nuttier) question: After looking up speedbleeder.com I found the correct application for my 1150RT: front: (2)SB8125L, rear: (1)SB6100, clutch: SB1010S. Then they list ABS unit: (4)SB7100S & (2)SB7100.
Do I need all of these bleeders, and with "youse" guys who do their own bleeding, do you also bleed the control unit (and thus removing the gas tank) or just the front and rear? Maybe one day I won't have to ask so many questions and can answer a few (oh glorious day!)
P.S.--I do have the dvd on the 1150 & 1200 by jvb, but I didn't see anything mentioned about bleeding the control unit that is mysteriously hidden under the fuel tank.
Here's another ('nuttier) question: After looking up speedbleeder.com I found the correct application for my 1150RT: front: (2)SB8125L, rear: (1)SB6100, clutch: SB1010S. Then they list ABS unit: (4)SB7100S & (2)SB7100.
Do I need all of these bleeders, and with "youse" guys who do their own bleeding, do you also bleed the control unit (and thus removing the gas tank) or just the front and rear? Maybe one day I won't have to ask so many questions and can answer a few (oh glorious day!)
P.S.--I do have the dvd on the 1150 & 1200 by jvb, but I didn't see anything mentioned about bleeding the control unit that is mysteriously hidden under the fuel tank.
Brake Bleed
You have to get to the abs unit to do the bleed. There is no way around it if you have the servo brake system. If you have a 2007 or later, no servo power assist, you do not need to get to the abs unit.
Here's another ('nuttier) question: After looking up speedbleeder.com I found the correct application for my 1150RT: front: (2)SB8125L, rear: (1)SB6100, clutch: SB1010S. Then they list ABS unit: (4)SB7100S & (2)SB7100.
Do I need all of these bleeders, and with "youse" guys who do their own bleeding, do you also bleed the control unit (and thus removing the gas tank) or just the front and rear? Maybe one day I won't have to ask so many questions and can answer a few (oh glorious day!)
P.S.--I do have the dvd on the 1150 & 1200 by jvb, but I didn't see anything mentioned about bleeding the control unit that is mysteriously hidden under the fuel tank.
You have to get to the abs unit to do the bleed. There is no way around it if you have the servo brake system. If you have a 2007 or later, no servo power assist, you do not need to get to the abs unit.
NavyDad
New member
I don't have the speed bleeders, but I will have the next time I do the job. They do make it a lot easier, especially if you don't have another person to help out. Yes you need to do the front, rear, and the control circuit. I have heard that old, contaminated fluid can lead to servo unit failure. I don't know how true this is, but I do know that left unchanged brake fluid can do some nasty things to the system. I recently rebuilt the braking systems on a 96 1100GS and a 1979 Suzuki GS850. Both bikes required a complete master cylinder and caliper rebuild because of the crud and damage that moisture contaminated fluid had caused. Bleed all of it and the clutch too if it is hydraulic.
I don't have the speed bleeders but will next time. The dvd for the 1150 don't show the control unit but you do need to flush it. When I ordered the dvd from the boneyard they asked if I had the servo unit, and if I did to order the R1200 dvd it show how to do it.
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When I purchased SpeedBleeders for my '04 GS there was no special designation for BMW, so I'm unsure what the adapters would be.
I've bled my servo-ABS brakes yearly since purchasing my GS in 2004. If I had it to do over again I would only buy the SpeedBleeders for the 3 brake calipers and the clutch. I have found them to be invaluable in doing the fluid changes for the clutch and brake system. The 6 SpeedBleeders on the ABS unit don't really help that much because you're standing right next to the ABS unit as you bleed it and it is very easy to close off the OEM bleeders after forcing fluid through the system.
I've always used the instructions for bleeding ABS 3 (aka iABS) brakes in Advrider.com' s Hall of Wisdom http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/
Front brake bleeders
I looked at my front calipers today and discovered that both of the bleed screws appear to be the same. I'm pretty sure neither of them has a grub screw. That said, as there any way to tell the difference from the outside between the standard BMW bleeder and a speed bleeder? I feel sure mine are the standard bleeders, but would like to know if there's any different appearance.
I looked at my front calipers today and discovered that both of the bleed screws appear to be the same. I'm pretty sure neither of them has a grub screw. That said, as there any way to tell the difference from the outside between the standard BMW bleeder and a speed bleeder? I feel sure mine are the standard bleeders, but would like to know if there's any different appearance.
nevergrowup
New member
Bleeder on left is speed bleeder note smaller hole and you can see insert in bleeder holding check valve.
Bleeder on right is BMW has larger hole and is one peice.
Device above is a one man brake bleeder from parts store. Just a bleeder you attach when you need it. Does same thing as speed bleeder.
Bleeder on right is BMW has larger hole and is one peice.
Device above is a one man brake bleeder from parts store. Just a bleeder you attach when you need it. Does same thing as speed bleeder.
Attachments
vachenleug
Wild Boar
Question on the process for EVO brake bleeding
I have to bleed the air out of my front left caliper due to opening the brake line and losing fluid. I replaced the pads with new pads on both left and right calipers. So far I have not begun to attempt the bleeding. Can I bleed the front calipers without removing them and using the wood blocks? I am not flushing the fluid since that was done 2 months ago. I just want to get the air out that is most likely in the line. I expect I will need to get into the resivoiur for the front wheel circuit. I intend to get speed bleeders for the front before I start the job.
twinsig
New member
ABS Unit Bleed
I did my RT for the first time last week, not bad really, you just need the right stuff and follow the instr on that pdf file floating around the net/advrider.
One thing i need is a 7mm boxed-end with nice offset, the ABS bleed valves are tricky to access, cheap thing to make though.
I did my RT for the first time last week, not bad really, you just need the right stuff and follow the instr on that pdf file floating around the net/advrider.
One thing i need is a 7mm boxed-end with nice offset, the ABS bleed valves are tricky to access, cheap thing to make though.
Speed bleeders are useful any time you need to manipulate the brake lever/pedal and the bleeder at the same time but can't physicall reach both. Otherwise, no real benefit.
They do require that the line be ful of fluid to operate because otherwise operating the brake will just compress the air in the line and not move any fluid. So if you replace a line, you'll want to temporarily pull the speedbleeder to help fluid fill the new lne unless using a vacuum bleeder.
They do require that the line be ful of fluid to operate because otherwise operating the brake will just compress the air in the line and not move any fluid. So if you replace a line, you'll want to temporarily pull the speedbleeder to help fluid fill the new lne unless using a vacuum bleeder.
