• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

R1100s ABS wheels vs Non ABS wheels

Nishka

Nishka
Hi,

I'm new and my applogies if this was asked some time ago, but I've been unable to track down a thread where it has been discussed.

I have a 1999 R1100s NON-Abs bike. I'm looking at changing the rims and I've found a reasonable set of ABS rims. Are they the same? I am hoping just to change over the brake disks and tires. Is it that simple or are they non-compatible?

I think if I had the bikes side by side I could see if they were, but I don't have the luxury.

If anyone could tell me if this is possible I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks
 
It's hard to say without actually trying to fit it, but not so hard if you know the part numbers.

For the early bikes with/without ABS2, the part numbers are different between ABS and nonABS bikes.

For the later bikes with/without Integrated ABS, the part numbers are the same and this part number is same as earlier bike without ABS.

So, kind of depends, perhaps on which version ABS the wheel is for.

Be nice, that is, if part number ended in 692 and not 693

The above for the rear

As for the front, it's the same story, i.e. the later ABS wheel is the same as your nonABS wheel, but the earlier ABS wheel isn't. You want part number ending in 026.

Clearly BMW took the opportunity when improving the ABS to rationalize wheels for R1100S, making it make no difference if with/without ABS on the later versions and using one of the early version wheels while doing it. In the long run this likely means those with early ABS will have trouble finding wheels.

Part numbers indicated for silver wheels. If the potential wheels are mandarin, white, blue, etc., they're the later wheels.
 
OK, without doing a lot of reasearch here is the deal, by memory. the only difference in wheels is the "height" of the rotor mounting "towers" on the early ABS wheels.

They are, by memory 6 MM taller (rear and LF side) for the early NON-abs, and the later wheels Both abs, and non abs. This was to accommodate the "Thick" abs ring used on the early bikes. The later used a thin stamped ABS ring so the short towers were not necessary.

So bottom line YES they will work, if later version, simple bolt on, if earlier ABS (short towers) you will need to have 6 mm thick spacers made for the rear and LF rotor, and purchase the longer bolts that the early ABS bikes used. That might negate any cost savings of a good deal.
 
Thanks for all the advice. It almost feels like I have an old British sports car which when ordering parts the VIN is absolutely key. There aren't just year to year changes but month to month.

I have gone ahead and purchased the wheels They are two boxer cup mandarin orange wheels. I'll get back to the thread when they arrive in a few weeks and let you know how it goes. I only paid $500 for the pair of rims so it isn't a huge investment and I figure I should be able to sell them easily enough if the experiment doesn't pan out.

So why mandarin wheels? I do love the 2004 boxer cup mandarin and titanium. But I own a 1999 that came with very low mileage and a great price. So I've been changing the look while keeping a strong healthy bike that doesn't seem to have been abused. Fairings are done, now it's just the wheels. They will be the last change over. Thank you to everyone for your input and guidance. It's my first BMW and I haven't been so attached to a bike since my first set of wheeels.
 
Last edited:
.......................
I have gone ahead and purchased the wheels They are two boxer cup mandarin orange wheels. ..............



Just set a straight edge across the rim, an measure the distance to the rear and LF rotor mounting points and compare them to your current.

Like i said, worst scenario is find a machinist to make the spacers, I made mine 21mm od, I also lucked out and found the bolts on Ebay, but even if you have to buy them new, it is not outrageous. I have a drawing somewhere, I will forward it if I find it.
 
Last edited:
Thank you that would be great. Fortunately I'm a high school vice principal and the school has a machine ship so I can get spacers made if need be. Nothing like seeing your VP ridein on a bike you had a part in putting together. I do know about Pelican, I joined them and that is actually the site I bought the wheels on.
 
Wow, I had never heard of Realoem until your post. Thanks, I'm slow but I'm learning!

Join the club. No wait... you already did that. Nevermind. :)

We're all learning here. I would have guessed the only difference in non ABS wheels is that the ABS ring would not be bolted on the hub.
 
Realoem doesn't show any mandarin wheels in the old style so I bet you're good to go.


I think this is your answer.

But here is the drawing for anybody that might find this in the future. I had a retired machinist friend make them so I dimensioned it in inches.
 

Attachments

  • 5mm washer.jpg
    5mm washer.jpg
    11.6 KB · Views: 128
I think this is your answer.

But here is the drawing for anybody that might find this in the future. I had a retired machinist friend make them so I dimensioned it in inches.

Great reference for the McGyver files I have...thanks:scratch
 
Hey Nishka,

If your plan doesn't work out for any reason, I'm looking for a 5.5 inch ABS (early ABS) rear wheel.
 
They fit!!!! They fit perfectly..... The wheels are from a 2004 boxer cup prep and fit my 1999 like they were made for it.... that you all for your input.. this is a great place!!
 
I've been through some pain fitting PVM wheels to my 1999 R1100S. So I'll kick in here. I also have a post on the pelican board.

My 1999 is an ABS II bike, which means it has the thick ABS rings (5mm thick flanges) with 305mm rotors with Brembo calipers. The later ABS bikes (i.e. 2004) us use the stamped sheet metal ABS rings which are probably the same as non-ABS for the same years with 320mm rotors with the BMW (Tonico) calipers.

Two things you're looking at here, the wheel brake rotor post heights (one side is shorter on the earlier ABS II bikes) AND reliefs cut into the wheel brake rotor posts for the 305mm rotors over the 320mm (do not need the relief cut).

Given what I just stated above, it is a major surprise to me that the 2004 wheel (320mm rotors) fits the 1999 (305mm rotors) but if he says it does, I have to believe it. I would have expected the wheel rotor posts to hit the brake calipers since the later wheels typically did not have the relief cut in them for the smaller and earlier ABS II rotors. The spacers to fill the difference between an early model ABS II rings (thick flange) and the later stamped steel ABS rings makes sense, not later ones fitting an earlier bike as stated, but as I said, if he says it works, I have to believe it.

I've read non ABS wheels will work on later ABS bikes that use the stamped steel ABS rings. I've also read the ABS II rings are interchangeable with the later stamped steel ABS rings (with spacers of course).

Bottom line, later wheels fitting earlier ABS II bikes can be a problem as the wheel brake rotors are typically too tall on one side and you need to verify clearance with smaller 305 mm rotor brake calipers. Earlier ABS II wheels can be made to fit any of the other years using the spacers shown earlier in this thread and their wheel brake rotor posts clear both the 305mm and 320mm brake rotor calipers.
 
Back
Top