I had mine installed my my local dealer when the bike was split apart four years and 55,000 miles ago for a clutch input shaft replacement.
It has been maintenance and trouble-free ever since.
What were your symptoms that let you know something was wrong with your paralever pivot bushing - or did you simply discover the wear during normal maintenance?
I'd like to be aware of how some of the signs of excessive wear might translate into rideability or handling. Could you tell something was wrong before you took it apart?
I discovered that while gently bouncing the rear on the pavement while on center stand I could feel and hear a tiny clunk. Sticking my finger in between the swingarm and FD with boot removed I could feel movement.
The '6 and 12 vs 9 and 3' wheel grab doesn't work for me.
1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F
"drop method" is to tighten adjustable pin to point of no free play left at pin. ensure that FD can still move smoothly on its own with a barely perceptible amount of drag (it will drop of its own accord when you let go of it). now, tighten just to the point where the drag prevents it from moving quite so readily, then back off a bit from that. you are looking for slight tension when you let go of it, but not enough to prevent free movement.
play in the FD relative to the shaft (could be wheel movement, but can also feel/see it with wheel off) is the "normal" method for assessing wear. unless you are very perceptive, or the play gets very excessive, you will not be able to feel it becoming loose.
Ride Safe, Ride Lots
Thanks, Bikerfish. The only (obvious) thing I would add to what BF wrote is take off the rear wheel before the test! That wheel-and-tire adds a "little" too much weight to the FD to make this test accurate!
Another fine day in the garage.
I hope I am not throwing this old this old thread too far astray. But how often are the aftermarket bronze bushings supposed to inspected and or regreased. Mine have been in for three and one half years and twenty thousand miles. I used the Honda Moly as recommended by Tom Cutter.
Installed mine @ 32,900miles, in 2008.
Had to send the FD to Tom for rebuild @ 39,500mi. Bushings looked nearly new. This was July 2009.
Had to send the tranny to Tom for rebuild @ 50,000mi. Bushings looked excellent. May 2011.
I'm at just over 64,000mi now, and I don't plan on checking them again until I decide to do a spline lube. I check frequently & rear wheel is solid as a rock. I also used the 'drop method' to torque the pin, no loctite on threads. But I do put a drop between the locknut & swingarm. Both pin & locknut are indexed to the swingarm, and neither has ever moved.....
Deep in the OH wasteland...
Paul -- 1. What are the advantages of Moly in a BMW Trans? (I have a 1995 R100GS-PD and a 1999 R1100S)
2. What 'Moly' would you recommend in the Trans, and how much?
3. Would you recommend adding Moly at every Trans Oil Change? Every-other change? Because some/much of the Moly remains within the Trans, even when the oil is drained 'hot'.
Thanx, Sgt Colt
Moly in a gear oil additive is finely ground molybdenum disulfide powder in suspenion in gear oil. Depending on the brand it is added 3% to 10% or so by volume - depending on the concentration of the moly in the additive. And you are right- since some moly remains coating things when the oil is drained a lower concentration can be used on repeated oil changes.
For a reasonable discussion of the lubricating properties of moly go her: https://guarddogmoly.com/what-is-moly/
You can find similar inforaamtion from Dow Corning about Molykote and from other suppliers as well.
Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
"The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell