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Thread: 1150RT Warning Light

  1. #1
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    1150RT Warning Light

    Here's my R 1150RT story.......ignition on, ABS does it's thing, start the bike, ride off, ABS light goes out, warning light stays lit. Seems to be no problem with ABS or servo's (?). All light bulbs are in working order and stop light comes on when either front or rear brake lever is engaged. All wiring seems intact. Bike runs fine, brakes fine. No hesitation, No hard starting, No change in fuel consumption, oil consumption or power. So..........why is the warning light still on? Thanks for your help!


    Bob Ridenour

    2004 R1150 RT
    2007 F650 GS

  2. #2
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    Standard BMW answer: "They all do that".


    Sorry, I really don't know.
    '03 R1150R, '03 F650GS, '97DR200SE,'78 Honda CT-90, '77Honda CT-90

  3. #3
    Scottish Transplant Picinisco's Avatar
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    the tail light bulb is programmed that if the stop light filament burns out, the tail light bulb gets more amps or wattage to make it brighter when the brakes are applied. That is why you think that the lamp is working when in fact it is not. The warning light is telling you that. Change the tail/stop light bulb and you should be to go.
    2004 R1150GS 1978 R75G/S Frankenbike
    AMA - BMWMOA - BMWRSOC - AZBEEMERS
    Gilbert, Arizona

  4. #4
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Here's the list of fault codes; yes change the bulb(s) even if they "look okay".

    Gen OFF, ABS ON = Only residual braking in both circuits.
    Gen OFF, ABS flashes at 1 Hz = ABS not available. Pull-away test not completed.
    Gen OFF, ABS flashes at 4 Hz = Only residual braking function available in both circuits.
    Gen ON, ABS off = rear light/brake light defective.
    Gen ON, ABS flashes at 1 Hz = At least one brake circuit without ABS.
    Gen ON, ABS flashes at 4 Hz =At least one brake circuit in residual braking function mode.
    Gen AND ABS flashing alternately at 1 Hz = Fluid level in Integral ABS too low, or Low voltage.

  5. #5
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    R1150RT Warning Light On

    Thanks to all who responded. PICINISCO hit it right on! The smaller of the "stop light" bulbs had indeed burnt out, leaving the larger bulb above it to take up the slack. From a safety stand point, how awesome is it that BMW thought to make this happen! This was an easy replacement. Undo the two thumb screws under the pillion seat and the entire rear light cluster came out as a unit. Simple! Again, thanks for your help.

    Bob Ridenour

    2004 R1150RT

    2007 F650GS (for sale, see flea market ad)

  6. #6
    tdomek
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    @Picinisco: thanks man; your post solved my problem and explained a strange set of symptoms that I was not seeing as a problem; fault code/warning light cleared for $1.99!

  7. #7
    Registered User pettynerd's Avatar
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    Highjacking the tread! My 04 RT is doing the same thing but I changed all of the rear brake lights and running lights and I still have the General Warning light on 24/7. weird thing was that it came on after I got my new tires installed, any connection?

  8. #8
    Scottish Transplant Picinisco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pettynerd View Post
    Highjacking the tread! My 04 RT is doing the same thing but I changed all of the rear brake lights and running lights and I still have the General Warning light on 24/7. weird thing was that it came on after I got my new tires installed, any connection?
    ABS sensor. Check installation and required gap.
    2004 R1150GS 1978 R75G/S Frankenbike
    AMA - BMWMOA - BMWRSOC - AZBEEMERS
    Gilbert, Arizona

  9. #9
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    I'm not sure whether any of you have been having this problem, but now that I've removed my brake and tail light assembly a few times, the plastic nuts will vibrate loose and the light will hang down by its wires.

    Solution I tried today was a little blue Loctite on the threads. It seems to be staying on now, but the real confirmation of how smart this solution is will be when I need to take it off again.

  10. #10
    Bill Lumberg 175781's Avatar
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    I never go more than a month or two without my warning light coming on. I replace the brake bulb. It goes away for a while. I got to work one day and found the whole brake assembly hanging from the wires. At first I thought I'd forgotten to put the thumbscrews back on, but they'd just vibrated loose over the course of 100 miles or so.
    R75/6, 2004 R1150RTA.

  11. #11
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Loctite is not compatible with some plastics: they will become brittle.
    I don't know if that specifically applies to the thumbscrews and/or the taillight housing, so I use a dab of silicone sealer instead. Works great, you don't have to "over"-tighten them, and it comes apart when you want it to.

  12. #12
    Registered User LCBIKEMAN's Avatar
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    BRAVO! 2000 r1100rt

    Your posts are superb...I was about to loctite bulb housing threads and GS mirrors that I added to my rt, the left of which, even with a lock washer, never stays in place. I shall use the silicone! Many thanks.

  13. #13
    Bill Lumberg 175781's Avatar
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    Yesterday, I decided to pick up OEM bulbs, instead of the silverstar auto bulbs I'd been using. I was convinced (from folks following me and telling me they could barely see my taillight) that an OEM bulb was either generally brighter or a higher wattage than what I've always used. I learned two things a) the parts manager at the dealership thinks that there are two taillight bulbs (separate from the brake light bulb), and that the tiny lower bulb, 10W IIRC, is only for the license plate. He almost had me convinced, even though I knew better. Zero visible difference between the ones from autozone and the ones from the BMW shop. Longevity (no pun intended) is yet to be determined.
    R75/6, 2004 R1150RTA.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    Loctite is not compatible with some plastics: they will become brittle.
    I don't know if that specifically applies to the thumbscrews and/or the taillight housing, so I use a dab of silicone sealer instead. Works great, you don't have to "over"-tighten them, and it comes apart when you want it to.
    i believe that if you look closely at those plastic thumbscrews you will find a threaded metal insert inside it, providing direct metal to metal contact to housing threads- blue loctite is perfect.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 175781 View Post
    Yesterday, I decided to pick up OEM bulbs, instead of the silverstar auto bulbs I'd been using. I was convinced (from folks following me and telling me they could barely see my taillight) that an OEM bulb was either generally brighter or a higher wattage than what I've always used. I learned two things a) the parts manager at the dealership thinks that there are two taillight bulbs (separate from the brake light bulb), and that the tiny lower bulb, 10W IIRC, is only for the license plate. He almost had me convinced, even though I knew better. Zero visible difference between the ones from autozone and the ones from the BMW shop. Longevity (no pun intended) is yet to be determined.
    i believe this goes under the heading of... just like oil, BMW does not make bulbs, they just sell them. so does Autozone, and a million other autoparts stores.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

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