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R100 Cafe Racer Build Thread R100CCR

But these wheels, with the polished rim and I assume powder coated rest, look sharp (the ad says the fork legs are powder coated).

It sure look powder coated, or at least painted. I powder-coated my top triple clamp on my /5 and really liked the result. I used a "pewter" color, but the gray in the photo is subtle. I live within a half mile of the Pacific Ocean and the salt air has always played havoc with the bare metal on my bike. I'm seriously considering powder-coating the lower triple clamp this winter, aluminum turn signal housings, etc. No exactly "correct" but it would certainly be different.

I also like the "coordinated" look between wheels, front sliders, etc. "Continuous" would be the design term... There would more than likely be a number of other elements that could be the same color.

It might even be fun to explore powder coating the tank, fender, and seat, and then use gloss areas to accent them. I don't know whose bike it was on /5United, but he painted his Toaster panels the same color as the tank and it was striking (IMO) Like NOT painting your knee pad recesses...
 
Image is Everything. . .

Les, and others --

On Firefox (mine), I have to first click on the picture, then go up to the top of the page, right under the Toolbar words (File, Edit, etc.), where I find a new little "bar" related to the picture, such as "BMWMOA Flea Market. . ." Click on THAT, and ONLY then will it show me an enlarged picture.

Trust me, I know NOTHING about this stuff, and on some days, it's clearly the hand of the devil at work. It it took me awhile to figure this out, and it was mostly an accident. Before this revelation, I ruined my eyes by squinting at the miniature pictures, so don't let this happen to YOU. Tragic.

Walking Eagle
 
Les, and others --

On Firefox (mine), I have to first click on the picture, then go up to the top of the page, right under the Toolbar words (File, Edit, etc.), where I find a new little "bar" related to the picture, such as "BMWMOA Flea Market. . ." Click on THAT, and ONLY then will it show me an enlarged picture.

Trust me, I know NOTHING about this stuff, and on some days, it's clearly the hand of the devil at work. It it took me awhile to figure this out, and it was mostly an accident. Before this revelation, I ruined my eyes by squinting at the miniature pictures, so don't let this happen to YOU. Tragic.

Walking Eagle

No worky! I don't have that.

I think you guys who get this option have registered with Photobucket possibly.

The advantage of Picasa and Flikr are that you don't need to register. I don't register if I don't have to.
 
I checked again on pc with no Photobucket history and it works full screen.


Well figured out what it was, definitely my end. Funny thing is that it affected all 3 browsers on my Computer. I cleared out all History, Cookies,and cache and the page is totally different.
 
UPS man comes today!

Not much getting done. It's been too nice and riding calls. However, the weather will change with the time change, so more shop time.

Can't find any wire wheels off a paralever bike. The bike's overall concept depends on wire wheels IMO.

The Brown man did bring me a nice minty NOS Koni shock today. Not as much bling as the Hagon, but that's good. The spring has a gunmetal flake to it that looks good offset by the gray engine. Probably won't show up in the pic. More http://bit.ly/ClymerFlatRacerPhotoAlbum
 

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Probably the closet thing available would be the wire wheels off a R80ST, Would probably need the final drive and total front end assembly off the ST to use those wheels. These bikes were monolever so it has that going for it. The rear wheels I think were mounted with 3 bolts instead of 4 on the later monolevers. Might work for you though.
 
Probably the closet thing available would be the wire wheels off a R80ST, Would probably need the final drive and total front end assembly off the ST to use those wheels. These bikes were monolever so it has that going for it. The rear wheels I think were mounted with 3 bolts instead of 4 on the later monolevers. Might work for you though.

Thanks. I think the issue is as you mention, the 3 vs 4 bolt wheel/hub on ST/GS monolever. At least that's what I've seen on a quick look of pics and parts info. I have been emailing with a guy who used a 4 bolt paralever spoked hub. "Easy" was his explanation. It did require a spacer to be made and machine work on the inner part of the hub to final drive mating surface.

So from parts lists this narrows it down to a R100R or R100R Mystic 91-94. This may include GS models, but I wasn't sure if the spoke count was same. I now think it is, so maybe a GS paralever will be a good donor as well and that would certainly add to my chances of finding some used parts. Although there are some other parts on the Mystic that I'd like to source. So if there is a wrecked one out there, let me know.
 
Looking Good

Looking good my friend.

Thanks,
Shane

PS: Thanks for the shop manual, that was way too generous of you.
 
Hubs Arrive

A pair of paralever hubs from a GS arrived over the weekend. They look good without any blems or damage. The bearings are smooth and there's little wear on the brake surface, so maybe a low miles machine?

The paralever hubs, from what I could find in parts books and sales lit, provide the only 4 bolt hub option to match the 4 bolt late model monolever final drive. The early monolevers (GSs) were 3 bolt.

A little over 20 mm needs to be removed from the paralever hub so it'll match the monlever final drive at the lug bolt mating surface.

Up front, there were a number of options for a dual disc wire wheel hub. But the gentleman with the rear hub from a GS also had the front, so the wheels are underway!

Going with a spoked wheel setup is a major part of the theme for this build, so glad this is rolling along.

Photos of the front and rear test setup on the bike and some prelim measurements for machine work here:

http://bit.ly/ClymerFlatRacerPhotoAlbum
 

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What year/model is the front from? I'm looking to dual disk my cafe project as well with spokes. I don't really want to run snowflakes if I can help it.
 
GS Hubs

Using the GS rims??

GS Spoked wheels are able to use a tubless tire do to the spokes going to the outside of the rim. Making a spoked wheel that will be able to use a tubless tires.

Hub/ spoke angle may require you to use a GS rim.

Just a thought:clap
 
What year/model is the front from? I'm looking to dual disk my cafe project as well with spokes. I don't really want to run snowflakes if I can help it.

These are from a 92 GS I believe. I was initially looking for hubs from a 91-95 R80R or R100R. I wasn't sure initially on the spoke count for GSs. But later found they are the same, so this opened it up to 88-95 GS models also.

However, for just the front you have more options available, as there were a number of machines using the 285mm disc fitted hub. For the the rear the issue is the 4 bolt hub and those paralever years are it from what I can tell.
 
Using the GS rims??

GS Spoked wheels are able to use a tubless tire do to the spokes going to the outside of the rim. Making a spoked wheel that will be able to use a tubless tires.

Hub/ spoke angle may require you to use a GS rim.

Just a thought:clap

No hoops at this point.

Now that I have the hub, and after it's machined. We'll look at the offset required, probably around 10 mm, to get the roughly 3 mm rubber to swing arm clearance.

If I had found hubs laced up to rims, I think we would have issues anyway with offset because the paralever swing arm is longer. While I don't have one to compare, I'm guessing it has an indentation like the monolever swing arm does at the tire's widest point.

Also, the GS was a 17 in cross spoked setup. I think the R100Rs used the same. Plus monolever stock is 18 in.

So maybe GS rims will be the way? I'm not that familiar with what options might be available in non stock form on these.

And while for esthetics, the wire wheels are the way to go, the rear in complete setup, in stock from, is pretty heavy. So maybe there are some rim and spoke options to offset this?

Anybody built up some trick GS or R paralever stuff with some tips?
 
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Oh and when machine work is done, the Y shaped cast wheels will be available if anyone is interested.

[ Admin Hat On ]

Please keep this type of posting off the forum...use the PM to make contact. Thanks...

[ Admin Hat Off ]
 
Hub and Wheels Moving Along

Jim has been on the phone with Buchanan's looking at the options. We'll go with Buchanan's Sun rims. The spokes have to be made and we should see everything by mid week next.

http://www.buchananspokes.net/categories/index.asp

In the meantime, the rear hub is with Layne Machine Works. These guys are great and we are talking old school. As Bobby says: "a big run for us is...two."

Dropped off the Y cast wheel for reference and the GS to be machined and then talked Indy cars. Yep, they had recently finished restoring an Offenhauser equipped Indy car that was driven in 1955 by Jimmy Ryan(?).

http://www.laynemachine.com/
 
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