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1977 r100s

mikeyork5

New member
I would appreciate some of your thoughts -

One of my bikes is a 1987 K75 with 50K on it, not exactly riding the wheels off it but always have had several bikes. Here's the deal - my cousin has a 1977 r100s in red with 11K on it. Been in his garage under a blanket for 11 or 12 (updated 10/12 - make that around 28 years!) years in Michigan, carbs were drained, gas tank was not drained but filled. Bike is in excellent condition so he says (haven't seen it). My questions -

1. I'm thinking is might be worth around 4K, whatdayathinK? (He wants 5, I offer 3.8, we settle on 4 or something close - I'm thinking)

2. What kind of shape do you think seals/gaskets will be in?

3. Other than the ususal stuff, draining all the fluids and replacing, new tires, battery, etc., what do you think might need to be done to the beast to make her road worthy AND anything major you think might be in store?

I know all this is pretty subjective - but I need the information to try get my arms around this to determine if I should proceed or not. I've got to admit I've always had a soft spot for an airhead - and the bike is in the family so to speak, I love the ideal of a r100s, and I love the looks of the beast - I'm thinking it might be a good bike to resurrect (and I'm also thinking there might not be a whole lot to it on this bike). Thoughts? Thank you all -
 
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I say go for it. Neat, cool bike. Everything is correctable, fixable and straight forward. Low milage is in it's favor. :thumb
 
sitting 10 to 11 years

You will find everything needs to be gone through:

Brakes
Carbs
New tires
Battery

You do all the work and looking at 500 to 600 hundred in parts.

Look at Airheads in the Flea Market prices are lower - should pay at most 2500:dance

My 2 cents worth!!!!:blah

example:

http://www.bmwmoa.org/flea/detail.php?siteid=33512&catid=1

Need to get your family member to look also so you don't create Bad Blood!!!
 
Low mileage has its good and bad points

If the paints in good shape and its all there with no significant damage to body work and drive components it would be a decent deal at about $3,000 - $4,200 anything more unless its a museum piece and ready to ride would be a risky move. If it looks nice and is ready to ride buy it and don't look back, if you like to tinker and work on carburetor & points bikes then get it and enjoy all it has to offer.
I would pull the tank off and examine the master cylinder, frame and underside of the tank for leaking brake fluid and its damaging affects. Look at the wheels, tires and all the frame and front end components and look for bends, damage, rust on the forks, leaking or damaged brakes and brake lines, fork tube seals and other odds & ends. If the bike has been sitting for 12 years or so you can plan on the following: oil and filter change X 2 plus oil pan gasket $65, brake master cylinder(don't bother to try a rebuild) $350, fork rebuild $80, tires $240, carb rebuild and refresh $150, fuel petcock rebuild and gas line $30, battery $65 and that is for parts alone no labor. I would also plan on pulling the final drive, swing arm and transmission to at the very least inspect the splines and lube as needed. If you can do the mechanical stuff great but if your paying somebody it will get very expensive very quickly. Once you start riding it your going to find a few bugs to work out and may find more stuff. I recently picked up a one owner R 100S with 129,000 on it and two 1 1/2" thick maintenance logs. Every repair and part purchased and performed by the owner was recorded and I have still managed to pump about $900 into it for incidentals with about another $400 to go. I am thrilled to own it and can't wait for the P.O. to take his promised ride on his (was his) refreshed bike.
 
Attitude is Everything

IF you look upon this as a FUN project, go for it. There is no better way to develop an intimate, long-term relationship.

Otherwise --- well, don't do it.

As others have said, once a bike has been sitting for this long, you'll need to go through every system, if you want a reliable ride.

Good luck, and keep us posted.

Walking Eagle
 
I wasn't aware that the '77RS was available in any color but blue, with a blue pinstripe on the wheels.
It may be a '78 model that was titled based on a '77 manufacturing date.
As others have stated in non running condition $2500-3000 would be a decent price. You will have to replace most, if not all of the seals, brakes could be frozen, etc.
 
I wasn't aware that the '77RS was available in any color but blue, with a blue pinstripe on the wheels.
It may be a '78 model that was titled based on a '77 manufacturing date.
As others have stated in non running condition $2500-3000 would be a decent price. You will have to replace most, if not all of the seals, brakes could be frozen, etc.

77 R100S, not RS. yes, they came in red metallic that year. red smoke in '78.
 
The R100S is a nice bike, and - at least around my area, somewhat rare.
It would definitely be worth buying if you are of the "Airhead Philosophy", but don't pay over $4K for it unless it is truly in running condition. As others indicated, it will need to be gone through, but if you take your time and go carefully, you can do it all yourself and likely will have no more than $1K of parts, etc. into it and then it will be One Truly Fine Ride!

I've brought my low mileage 82 R65LS back from its 15+ year sleep, and, while it certainly isn't concours-ready, it is very reliable and gets alot of looks where ever I go. I'm in the process of rejuvenating my '78 R100/7 and getting it paired up with a sidecar as my pocketbook allows. They are wonderful bikes and projects!
 
Well - I finally did 'pulled the trigger' - talked with my cousin last night and we settled on $4K for the bike. It deserves to stay in the family and live out it's days in sunny So Cal. vs. covered in my cousins garage in Mich. Now I have to do a couple of things:
1). Somehow break it to the wife I bought the (another) bike - might be a little easier as I just got her the below 31st Anniversary present (the Bird not the Dog - although I do love the dog, my daughters - and also the wife of course) a couple of weeks ago.

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2). Somehow make some more room in the garage for it - it was tough enough making room to get the Bird into our'3' car garage (that hasn't had a car in it for years).

3). Get the thing out to Calif from Michigan - can anybody recommend a good, dependable and reasonable priced transport company that they have had experience with?

Then, I will need to begin the process of healing the beast - and will be looking for your expertise and advice from this forum, although with 11K on the clock and being properly(?) stored I am hoping it won't be too bad. OH BOY OH BOY!!!!
 
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Check out the MOA's Links and Resource page: http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=47142. Look down the list for Shippers near the bottom.

I have used Forward Air before with good results. As a general rule, they are a terminal-to-terminal shipping service. Sometimes they can help you find a sub-contractor (door-to-terminal) to pickup the bike. Terminal-to-terminal is usually much cheaper then door-to-door service. Do you really want a tractor trailer showing up outside your house in the middle of the day? Some trucking services have power lift tailgates to get the bike off the 4' high trailer. Some can transfer it to a straight truck. Some trucking services require that you get the bike off the truck yourself. So, you need to ask them questions.
 
Well Bought!

You will NOT be sorry you snagged this, even with all the "fun" you're going to have in the garage over "what passes for winter" where you are!

If this is original paint in good shape, and if everything is "there" -- both of which appear true, and with a reliable, truth-telling seller, you done real good on this one at $4k.

I'm always amused at the posts that counsel low-balling on these old airheads, especially something like a beautiful and soon-to-be fully sorted R100S -- there were not many of these shipped here, (US: 841 w/ late '76 mfg date, and 544 w/ early '77 mfg date) and your main expense is going to be parts. This bike is not an "ordinary" /6 or /7 which can be found every day of the week, often with sketchy history, stored outside, etc. You now have something worth doing right, and worth the time and money you'll spend.

PLEASE buy both a Clymer's and a Haynes -- each has strengths, and -sometimes, conflicting information, so always post here for plenty of help. My opinion is that the BMW "factory manual" has limited use for those of us not born with a wrench in our hands. These are very easy bikes to take apart and to put back together with few (if any) leftover parts involved. Well usually no leftover parts, IF you've been paying attention.

Time-saving tip: UNLESS your local BMW dealer has "an airhead guy" in the parts/service department, my advice would be to FIND such a person, no matter what part of the country they're in; otherwise, prepare to end up with a lot of incorrect parts, which costs you a lot of time and trouble. My experience with "regular" dealers has not been good vis-a-vis parts or with advice on airheads --

I favor independent "airhead friendly" shops vs. "most" dealers, with the notable exception being Max's BMW in New Hampshire, mostly due to Rusty Gill - there is very little he doesn't know about airheads, and Max's has the BEST parts fiche, with extra "notes" in the fiche to help you get the right stuff the first time. As others have pointed out, get ready to open the checkbook, and do NOT skimp on replacing what needs to be replaced. False economy, and no excuse for this behavior in your case! This bike will have VALUE when you're done, IF done right.

Can't help with a shipper. Nice T-bird, cute dog, cute SWMBO, and good job on the bribe!

Keep us in the loop, por favor.

Walking Eagle
 
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My cousin has ownned this bike since around 1980(?) - its clean, perfect original paint (one small scratch in the bikini), and stored pretty much correctly. No doubt about the history or condition of the bike - yes I think I did get a pretty fair deal, particularly considereing a bike with 11,000 miles on it. Of course, I will see how well I did when the 'fun' begins.

I already have a Clymer Manual I bought several months ago in anticipation of this predestined purchase, and good advice, the Haynes will be ordered as well. I have a friend who is an 'Engineer' type and works for American Honda, is a rider and meticulous as hell. Last year he bought a 1980(?)RS that he then planned on turning into an S. Haven't talked with him in a while but I know he is well underway with the project - don't know if his objective has changed but he will also be invaluable for parts source advice, mechanical, etc., I also have an 'airhead' guy (Valdi Slusarczyk) who used to wrench at Marty's BMW in Torrance, then bought Mitch's (former Service Mgr. at Marty's) shop several years ago and now runs it - he will be my 'go to guy' when necessary. I know it will cost a few bucks to do this right and I plan on doing it right, no problem, this is one of the reasons why I work. Thanks for the encouragement -
 
I bought a 1978 R100S, red metallic (same color) 4 years ago. It had sat since 1996 and also had all fluids drained. I got it for $2,150.-, it had 26,000 miles on it.
I went through the carbs, front and rear brakes (including front master) and front fork. I put new tires and a new aftermarket exhaust on it. I did not open the motor. It runs like a scalded cat, but the final drive leaks through the vent (oil migrates into it from the drive shaft and causes overflow) and a pushrod seal leaks on the right cylinder. I worked on it for 3 months. I would not have paid 4K!
 

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Inspect the under tank Master cylinder

The front brake master cylinder has to be the single most overlooked and problematic(for paint) item on these old bikes. Until you get a chance to pull the gas tank and ensure that its not leaking and is in great shape I would consider removing the front brake lever so you don't accidentally bathe the underside of the gas tank, top of the motor and the relays that sit there with destructive brake fluid.

Alarmist??? Maybe but I would rather be safe than sorry!!!!
 
Nice one! I picked up a '77 R100S that had been sitting in a barn for ~10 years.. And And after re-uping the battery, tires and cleaning out the fuel system-- yeah, expect to replace just about every seal.. but luckily, it seems like most seals only cost a few bucks... the bitch is getting to where they need to be replaced.....!! But obviously worth it!

I bought mine for $1,500 with 30K miles on it- but now I can't park it without someone trying to buy it off me.....
 

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Nice one! I picked up a '77 R100S that had been sitting in a barn for ~10 years.. And And after re-uping the battery, tires and cleaning out the fuel system-- yeah, expect to replace just about every seal.. but luckily, it seems like most seals only cost a few bucks... the bitch is getting to where they need to be replaced.....!! But obviously worth it!

I bought mine for $1,500 with 30K miles on it- but now I can't park it without someone trying to buy it off me.....

I can see why, nice bike, nice color too. Reminds me of my old R90S painted Chevy pickup red. Should have never sold that bike.
 

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