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got the R90 out in the sun

Nothing else to do this winter, knew I had to get new guides sooner or later, if anyone wants to look at an old set of seats and valves from a 900.

I was not expecting no recession. Looks like a valve job with new guides should get by for now. Don't think this needs new valve seats? Maybe new exhaust valves depending on what the tec says? Awhile back, somewhere, somebody said the older valve seats presented no problem as to the use of unleaded gas? Definitely oily.

So whats up with that valve and seat?

Maybe its a poor photo but that valve appears to be recessed and the seat looks narrow. OTOH, I ran a set of R90 heads for huge miles and 10+ years and still had good seats.

I'm also curious about why you installed a second lower triple clamp. I've never seem that before!
 
I never worried about the spring gap as long as there is some. I always thought its purpose was it to keep the two scrappers separate, that is tight in the grove in the piston, not push it towards the cylinder. Anyway, I have had lightened wrist pins in my bike since 85, still has not blown up.
 
Move-a-fuse holder

Hope this isn't boring, but there's nuthin else to do until it gets warmer. Took out the fuse blocks, cleaned'em up, a little dielectic grease. Was going to buy new ones, can't find anything like these units, tough cases, thick brass fittings, fat wires, sold usually at rallies way back, put disconnects on ends for easy service.
 
Very cool, anything to not take off fairing to get to headlight bucket. I'm checking out local surplus store later, see if I can scrounge up some old radio junk with old panel blocks.
 
Not Boring

Excellent reportage. Keep it up, please.

I saw your reference to Quickseat, and looked at the info. Have you used this stuff? OK on precious jewelry?

Regards,

Walking Eagle
 
Snowbum

Snowbum has a tutorial on drilling mufflers for a better sound, and this "deep drill" is part of it. Can't find the link, but if you Google Snowbum, you'll easily find all his detailed articles.

Sadly, if you require pictures to understand instructions (vice words), Snowbum is not the guy for you. Fortunately, he uses many nice bright colors, sorta like Crayons, which helps when reading his long and quite specific instructions. He usually repeats the IMPORTANT stuff at least twice, a feature of his work that I appreciate.

Being a "non-trained" wrench, I read EVERYTHING I can get my hands on before I even think of doing a new job, but that's a personal thing. What I do next is READ EVERYTHING again. Then, after that, especially if I haven't done the job before -- I READ EVERYTHING again, and I'm not kidding. Yes, I'm old, but you may be surprised at all the details that you missed the on the first (or even second) reading. When I follow this discipline, I usually don't have parts left over after re-assembly -- and I take that for a good sign.

Walking Eagle
 
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Quickseat. . .

I noted that on the "other thread" that you apparently gave up on the Quickseat. I talked to a couple of mechanic friends, but they didn't know anything about it. Website wasn't much help.

Following your investigation, is it not worthy of consideration, or at least not worth $20? Possible damage to the 247? If you feel like reporting, let fly. Enjoying this thread, and I hope you keep it up.

Regards,

Walking Eagle
 
Base Sealant. . .

The latest info from Oak is to use Loctite 510 Sealant. Everybody has their favorite, and many gurus probably still use Hylomar, which probably works just fine if properly applied. There is a LOT of "old" information out there, and Hylomar has been around a long time, which is one reason you see it recommended in so many places.

You probably won't find this product on a shelf. I ordered mine through a local Fastenal store, and it ran about $30 for enough to do many, many bikes IF it doesn't dry out once opened, as with Dreibond and probably others. There are less-expensive choices out there in your local auto supply store, and I know several excellent mechanics who swear by other products that cost under $10 a tube.

I'm not an expert on any of this stuff, by any means, but - like you - I never rush through a job, and I read everything I can get my eyes on.



Walking Eagle
 
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Base Sealant (2)...

Tom Cutter just gave a nice treatise on gaskets and sealants. In it he stated the following:

------------------------------

BMW original recommendation was Hylomar SQ-32L Sealing compound.

Other sealants used by mechanics include:
- gray ThreeBond Liquid Gasket 1194 sealant
- other names for this include YamaBond 4 from Yamaha
- Suzuki offers the ThreeBond product in BLACK, under their "Sealant 1207B"
label
- Tom uses the Suzuzi 1207B on bikes with black-painted cylinders, and the ThreeBond 1194 for aluminum cylinders

----------------------------

I've heard Ted Porter say he uses Permatex Ultra Gray.
 
Thanx for the info. Got too many tubes of stuff around here. Need a fresh tube of the latest stuff. Went to bank, got four dollars, bought a can of rustoleum high temp paint, got out broom, and they're all done up fresh black, which will probably wear off in about one summer.

I used the rustoleum high heat spray on my valve covers and it held up tremendously, and that's without even prepping it properly. Once I'm ready to put my high compression pistons in I'll likely use the same spray on the cylinders.

Also, I sent you a PM but for some reason this forum won't let me send any out. Did you have to grind your valve pockets with the 336 cam using the 9.5:1 pistons? I've heard people say they've had to with smaller displacement engines and heard some people just put in the cam and go. I have the BMW TSB and they are sort of vague whether or not you have to insisting on testing for clearances on installation. I'm so anal I'm going to check all clearances when I finally decide to put the bike down for more than a few days at a time to install this stuff, but just want to know what your experiences with the cam were. The cam, pistons, cylinders, and dell'ortos are all on my shelf ready to go, but I just did the top end last year and have the bike tuned to perfection so I'm not really in any rush to take everything apart again
 
Here's the standard bore, left, with the first over, intake pockets. That's what I got when bought new pistons, a bigger pocket! And I didn't even know it at the time! Someone was looking out for 8ninety8. These are both 9.5 CR.


I have 2nd oversize and they look deep like the one on the right, maybe a little deeper even (but nothing like the stock one on the left). mine are also going into a 900. I don't have the installation sheet in front of me and it doesn't look like it's available online anymore but there is definitely a higher lift with the 336. I'll be measuring and measuring for sure once I finally decide to put the bike down (I ride through the winter so no downtime there), just wanted to see what your experiences were


EDIT:

336 cam lift = 10.68mm
308 = 9.4 mm
 
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Thanx ....for excellent diagram on how to measure pushrod tube ring with straight edge and cylinder base.

I'll give credit to Oak for this. I received his version on an email a number of years ago when he was discussing it on the Airhead list. I requested his figure and he sent me one. Rather than just straight publish his work, I transformed it a bit to create my version. Still, it is Oak's knowledge that is in this figure.
 
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