Zumo/Autocom mic wiring help needed

Hi Group,

I moved my Zumo 550 and Autocom L-1 Logic from my RT to my new GS and everything went well except I no longer have voice output over the phone. I can hear the phone just fine, and the intercom feedback of my voice is loud and clear. I looked at the tank bag on the old RT and there were two holes for wires from the Autocom to the Zumo, but now I'm down to one. I'm assuming there is a wire missing from the mic input on the GPS to the Autocom. I've looked everywhere on both bikes and it's lost. In looking at both manuals this option is of coarse missing. Does it plug into Aux 3 port on the Autocom. If anyone else has this same set-up please confirm I've not really lost my mind. If there is still the part number tag on the wire that would be great as well.

Thanks,
Jay

Had breakfast with the club this morning and still no idea what's missing or broken with my set-up. I still think I'm missing a wire lead. I broke down and sent Autocom an email. Lord know how long it will take to hear from them. In the mean time, all of you that have your phone sync'd to your Zumo go out to the garage and count how many wires go from the GPS to your intercom.

Thanks,
Jay

My old Zumo 550 needed a cable from the mic jack and another from the spkr jack to plug into an Autocom adapter box and then into one of the Autocom ports. The adapter box was about an inch by an inch by three inches long with a pigtail lead on one end and the two jacks for the Zumo on the other

There might be some useful information in This thread HTH Gary

Thanks both of you. I too have the red box with two inputs and one output to the autocom. Not too much detail on their website on this adapter.

I also sent Lisa an email explaining my situation.

Keeping my fingers crossed!

Jay

Not sure if I understand your issue, but your Zumo 550 has two bluetooth circuits. One Bluetooth on your Zumo talks to your phone while the second Bluetooth talks to a Bluetooth module which is connected to your Autocom. I believe your phone stuff, or in this case your Bluetooth module will be plugged into Aux 1.

If working correctly your Zumo on the menu page should show both an icon of a telephone handle and the second icon right next to it will show a headphone set. The headphone set icon represents your Autocom Bluetooth module. You will always see both icons when working correctly.

The Autocom module looks like a filter block only all black with a 3.5 mm male jack coming out one end. That goes to Aux 1. The other end has two caps. One has a red LED and the other has a small button. You need a very small screwdriver to push the button. Push and hold button for 6 seconds until red light is rapidly flashing. Set Bluetooth on your Zumo to pair with the Autocom module. From there everything will automatically pair every time you start your bike. You should never have to mess with it again.

RTRandy said:

Not sure if I understand your issue, but your Zumo 550 has two bluetooth circuits. One Bluetooth on your Zumo talks to your phone while the second Bluetooth talks to a Bluetooth module which is connected to your Autocom. I believe your phone stuff, or in this case your Bluetooth module will be plugged into Aux 1.

If working correctly your Zumo on the menu page should show both an icon of a telephone handle and the second icon right next to it will show a headphone set. The headphone set icon represents your Autocom Bluetooth module. You will always see both icons when working correctly.

The Autocom module looks like a filter block only all black with a 3.5 mm male jack coming out one end. That goes to Aux 1. The other end has two caps. One has a red LED and the other has a small button. You need a very small screwdriver to push the button. Push and hold button for 6 seconds until red light is rapidly flashing. Set Bluetooth on your Zumo to pair with the Autocom module. From there everything will automatically pair every time you start your bike. You should never have to mess with it again.

Click to expand...

Good summary on this.

Some more info on the bluetooth headset: on my RT I had the autocom hooked up to fuse 3 which was briefly affected by the load relief relay when starting the bike.
This would cause the autocom bluetooth headset to unpair from the garmin if the timing was right between turning on the key and pushing the starter button.

I moved the autocom to fuse 8 (I think) which was unaffected by the load relief relay, and only turns off when the key is in the full lock position. This solved the unpairing, but I need to turn the key to full lock to prevent the parasitic drain on the battery form the autocom when off the bike for long periods of time ( not sure how long probably days)

I only have the single bluetooth from the phone to the gps. I've been dealing with autocom-usa and have deduced I'm missing a cable from the zumo to the red converter box that goes into aux 2 (I think) on the autocom. I do know it's
3.5mm on one end and 2.5mm on the other. How many conductors on each end I have no idea. The cable with the zumo kit is that size, but it's made for direct phone connection and does not work. It has four contacts on the big end and three on the other. I'm waiting for Lisa to email back from autocom-usa.
Jay

beeryboats said:

I only have the single bluetooth from the phone to the gps. I've been dealing with autocom-usa and have deduced I'm missing a cable from the zumo to the red converter box that goes into aux 2 (I think) on the autocom. I do know it's
3.5mm on one end and 2.5mm on the other. How many conductors on each end I have no idea. The cable with the zumo kit is that size, but it's made for direct phone connection and does not work. It has four contacts on the big end and three on the other. I'm waiting for Lisa to email back from autocom-usa.
Jay

Click to expand...

The input you use depends on what else you're using with your setup. It also depends on which Autocom mixer you have and the way you have the switches configured internally. Mine is different from yours, so we can't directly compare notes.

Not sure about the cables at the Autocom end, but at the Zumo end, the mic cable should be two conductor and the earphone three.

beeryboats said:

have deduced I'm missing a cable from the zumo to the red converter box that goes into aux 2 (I think) on the autocom. I do know it's
3.5mm on one end and 2.5mm on the other.
Jay

Click to expand...

That red box is an ignition isolator . Anything that is powered by the bike needs that in the line to filter out ignition noise. Aux2 and 3 on the Autocom is for stereo music. In this case they are suggesting the audio from your Zumo go through Aux 2. This means you can also play your music stored as MP3 on your Zumo music. It works great and I highly recommend routing the stereo output from the outside of your Zumo cradle to Aux2 with that isolator.

You still need that blue tooth module to go in Aux 1 if you want to use your phone while it's tucked away in your pocket. Your Zumo will show all your contacts once paired with a current model phone.

If for example you want to play your iPod and it's fully charged running on it's own battery, then you can plug it directly into Aux3 and you don't need an isolator. Again, anything that is powered by the bike such as radar detector or your Zumo needs an isolator in the line running to one of the inputs to filter out ignition noise. An iPod running on it's own battery doesn't need one.

You can also play everything through that bluetooth module from your Zumo including voice commands and then you don't need to go through Aux2. You have to change the setting on your Zumo, however routing directly to Aux 2 is the preferred way.

I've got Zumo 550 and autocom on my GSA. Android phone is bluetoothed to Zumo for phone. Two wires run from the Zumo to the Autocom unit. Since both the Zumo and the Autocom are bike-powered, I must use a Part # 2190 Special GPS isolation adaptor.

A cable (Part # 2248), 2.5 mm, runs between the Zumo's Microphone jack and the jack labeled "B" on the isolation adaptor. This is for your mic in your helmet to link to your Zumo.

A cable (Part # 2245), 3.5mm, runs between the Zumo's music out jack and the jack labeld "A" on the isolation adaptor. This is so you can hear stereo music as well as the GPS instructions.

The other end of the isolation adapter has one cable that will plug into the Autocom unit itself. I have the top of the line unit and mine is plugged into Aux 3, stereo music.

As said above, the Android is bluetoothed to the Zumo. But the Zumo is hard-wired to the Autocom.

I hear music from the Zumo, either MP3 or XM. When the phone rings, the music drops off completely, I tap the answer button on the Zumo Screen and talk. When done, music automatically comes back on.

If GPS starts providing information, music drops only 50% until GPS is done, then goes back up to previous level.

Hope I helped you.

stkmkt1 said:

I've got Zumo 550 and autocom on my GSA. Android phone is bluetoothed to Zumo for phone. Two wires run from the Zumo to the Autocom unit. Since both the Zumo and the Autocom are bike-powered, I must use a Part # 2190 Special GPS isolation adaptor.

A cable (Part # 2248), 2.5 mm, runs between the Zumo's Microphone jack and the jack labeled "B" on the isolation adaptor. This is for your mic in your helmet to link to your Zumo.

A cable (Part # 2245), 3.5mm, runs between the Zumo's music out jack and the jack labeld "A" on the isolation adaptor. This is so you can hear stereo music as well as the GPS instructions.

The other end of the isolation adapter has one cable that will plug into the Autocom unit itself. I have the top of the line unit and mine is plugged into Aux 3, stereo music.

As said above, the Android is bluetoothed to the Zumo. But the Zumo is hard-wired to the Autocom.

I hear music from the Zumo, either MP3 or XM. When the phone rings, the music drops off completely, I tap the answer button on the Zumo Screen and talk. When done, music automatically comes back on.

If GPS starts providing information, music drops only 50% until GPS is done, then goes back up to previous level.

Hope I helped you.

Click to expand...

You are correct!!!! Where were you a week ago???? Lisa got me the P/N 4428 cable in the mail today so I should see it in about a week. My bike is wired exactly like above. It worked great on the RT until I moved it and lost the cable. It would be very helpful if Autocom would publish on their web-site some of the more common installations in picture form like they do for home electronics. So dummies like me can understand them.

Thanks for everyones input once again. Now all I have to do is wait.
Jay

stkmkt1 said:

I've got Zumo 550 and autocom on my GSA. Android phone is bluetoothed to Zumo for phone. Two wires run from the Zumo to the Autocom unit. Since both the Zumo and the Autocom are bike-powered, I must use a Part # 2190 Special GPS isolation adaptor.

A cable (Part # 2248), 2.5 mm, runs between the Zumo's Microphone jack and the jack labeled "B" on the isolation adaptor. This is for your mic in your helmet to link to your Zumo.

A cable (Part # 2245), 3.5mm, runs between the Zumo's music out jack and the jack labeld "A" on the isolation adaptor. This is so you can hear stereo music as well as the GPS instructions.

The other end of the isolation adapter has one cable that will plug into the Autocom unit itself. I have the top of the line unit and mine is plugged into Aux 3, stereo music.

As said above, the Android is bluetoothed to the Zumo. But the Zumo is hard-wired to the Autocom.

I hear music from the Zumo, either MP3 or XM. When the phone rings, the music drops off completely, I tap the answer button on the Zumo Screen and talk. When done, music automatically comes back on.

If GPS starts providing information, music drops only 50% until GPS is done, then goes back up to previous level.

Hope I helped you.

Click to expand...

You make it sound so easy and effective it makes me want to try it!

beeryboats said:

You are correct!!!! Where were you a week ago???? Lisa got me the P/N 4428 cable in the mail today so I should see it in about a week. My bike is wired exactly like above. It worked great on the RT until I moved it and lost the cable. It would be very helpful if Autocom would publish on their web-site some of the more common installations in picture form like they do for home electronics. So dummies like me can understand them.

Thanks for everyones input once again. Now all I have to do is wait.
Jay

Click to expand...

Be sure to let us know how it works when your up and running Gary

I must disclose that I am having one problem that I have not yet been able to solve. When talking on phone, others have a difficult time understanding me. They say voice is quite garbled. I know it is Autocom related since the Zumo does double duty in my Avalanche and it works perfectly.

Once I get this issue resolved, it will be a near perfect setup. I use earbuds by the way. Didn't like the speakers, even their best ones.

stkmkt1 said:

I must disclose that I am having one problem that I have not yet been able to solve. When talking on phone, others have a difficult time understanding me. They say voice is quite garbled. I know it is Autocom related since the Zumo does double duty in my Avalanche and it works perfectly.

Once I get this issue resolved, it will be a near perfect setup. I use earbuds by the way. Didn't like the speakers, even their best ones.

Click to expand...

It seems by their instructions on mic placement it must be just in the right spot in front of your lips. When I first got mine on the RT I called my folks in CA from IN, not the best long distance on a cell phone, and they could hear me just fine with the standard headset. You really need to have the mic touching your lips all the time.

Jay

This thing still doesn't work! I thought I had it licked when I got the 2248 cable and forgot about it. I was bored tonight so I thought I would give it a try. Still no voice from the bike but I can hear fine. Then I got to thinking about it and tried plugging the isolation adapter into the aux 2 gps port on the autocom. It works but my voice is almost un-hearable it's such a low volume. I don't know what to try next. There is an adjustable pot under the cover for something, maybe that's it....

Hi, my first ever post but are you pluged in to the operator side of the Autocom. My problem with sound was due to me connecting to the passenger side by mistake.

redriderbmw said:

Hi, my first ever post but are you pluged in to the operator side of the Autocom. My problem with sound was due to me connecting to the passenger side by mistake.

Click to expand...

Yep, I checked that too. I got an email back from Autocom UK tonight and he told me that the isolator should be in Aux 3 (phone). That didn't work either. I'm starting to wonder if the isolator has half died. I still get audio in the speakers but the mic is dead.

Did you get Zumo working? Problem should be in the red interface. This device has three isolation transformers. Left, Right, and Mic. I have a used one available for $30. You can also check my signiture and get the newer 4066 interface for $89.99 shipped. Expensive, but that is your most likely problem.

Hi Matt. I'm still not having any luck with my system (see my problem in the post above). Have you any ideas?