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Thread: ABSi problem on R1150GS 2004 model

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  1. #1
    DLEVQS
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    ABSi problem on R1150GS 2004 model

    A while ago I found the ABS lamp flashing rapidly with the warning lamp - odd times during the ride this would start. I could shut off the bike and it would go away on restart. No problems with any of the brake system were evident. Then the warning lights stayed on longer until they were flashing and lit immediately after startup. I checked all the easy stuff and found nothing.

    "Gen ON, ABS flashes at 4Hz =At least one brake circuit in residual braking function mode."

    This is definitely not the case here as I proved by road testing the brakes.

    As it was time to do it, I replaced all the brake fluid in both front and rear systems including all the ABS modulator bleed valves. After doing this the lights stayed off - for 30 miles. Then they came back on and now stay on all the time.

    There is no sign of frayed wires. The front sensor looks fine. The reservoirs are both full. The battery voltage is excellent and the alternator puts out plenty of current. I replaced the battery about 3 months ago - the old one died basically.

    I have tested the brakes repeatedly under all conditions including several times at 60 MPH. The ABS works perfectly in dirt and gravel.

    To run down the scorecard to date:
    1. Battery voltage is OK
    2. ABS sensor gap measures ok - front and back.
    3. tail light is ok - even with the Hyper Lite only 1/2 lit on 1 side it did not make any difference when I eliminated that totally.
    4. handgrip is definitely clear of the lever for front brake
    5. micro switches both seem to be working - I can hear them when the lever is pulled a small amount
    6. brake pads look to be ample thickness.
    7. fluid is above min in both reservoirs and is new fluid throughout both systems.

    Any other suggestions? Now the lights light up as soon as I turn on the ignition.

    Doug

  2. #2
    Daily Rider jurgen's Avatar
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    Check your owners manual - it has the ABS blinking codes listed. There are a number of different combinations of slow and fast blinks. Easiest problem may be a failed brake light bulb but I see you already checked that. Next is the microswitches - make sure neither hand nor foot lever is touching anything and both levers can freely return to the fully "brake off" position. Do the microswitches activate the brake light? You may hear clicks and they still are defective. Fluid levels in the outside reservoirs are only half the story. There are two more reservoirs in the ABS modulator under the tank.
    Let us know what the exact code is.
    J?rgen
    Red Rocks
    04 R1150GS adv
    04 K1200RS last of the great bricks

  3. #3
    DLEVQS
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    Continuing dillemma ...

    Quote Originally Posted by jurgen View Post
    Check your owners manual - it has the ABS blinking codes listed. There are a number of different combinations of slow and fast blinks. Easiest problem may be a failed brake light bulb but I see you already checked that. Next is the microswitches - make sure neither hand nor foot lever is touching anything and both levers can freely return to the fully "brake off" position. Do the microswitches activate the brake light? You may hear clicks and they still are defective. Fluid levels in the outside reservoirs are only half the story. There are two more reservoirs in the ABS modulator under the tank.
    Let us know what the exact code is.
    Jurgen - apologies to you and any others that follow both this and ADV rider. You responded to my query over there as well as this one here. Anyhow - here is the latest report to be sure we are all together on this epic tour of the GS brake system.

    "Gen ON, ABS flashes at 4Hz =At least one brake circuit in residual braking function mode."

    This is the flashing code I continue to get. This morning I pulled out the 2 ABS sensors and cleaned them. I checked the micro switches - again - very carefully inspecting them and oiling them and checking for debris. They both work (even without ignition on I can hear them). If they just light the brake light, then clearly they are functioning.

    I eliminated the Hyper Lites as on 1 side the unit had 1/2 the LED's lit and 1/2 dead.

    I have changed all the fluid at the ABS modulator - front and back caliper lines, all control circuits and metering circuits, new fluid and bled carefully. Manually sucked out the old fluid from every reservoir and the ABS reservoirs and then bled each bleeder nipple until new fluid came out.

    One suggestion from a fellow GS owner was to Ohm out the ABS sensors to see what the reading is. The ABS system functions with repeated tests on dirt and gravel so I can see little chance of those malfunctioning.

    I still get that pattern of lights as soon as the ignition is turned on.

    Any other thoughts?

    Thanks.

    Doug

  4. #4
    Daily Rider jurgen's Avatar
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    Doug,
    can you narrow it down to which one of the circuits is in residual mode? You should be able to tell by the way either the front or rear brake responds.
    Then you can focus on the circuit that is faulty.
    Also, did you physically disconnect each microswitch to make sure it functions?
    J?rgen
    Red Rocks
    04 R1150GS adv
    04 K1200RS last of the great bricks

  5. #5
    DLEVQS
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    Quote Originally Posted by jurgen View Post
    Doug,
    can you narrow it down to which one of the circuits is in residual mode? You should be able to tell by the way either the front or rear brake responds.
    Then you can focus on the circuit that is faulty.
    Also, did you physically disconnect each microswitch to make sure it functions?
    I don't think either one is in residual mode, Jurgen. At a 60 MPH full lever stop the bike is almost falling over dead in 30'. It is a bit nose-down at that point so I have to say it is possible the rear brake is doing less than it should but then I seldom have done a panic stop at that speed so I cannot be certain.

    No I did not disconnect either microswitch. I can Ohm those out but then disassembling the front lever mechanism looks a bit difficult. The bottom one is a more likely culprit anyhow. That thing looks like it was engineered for failure!

    Thanks for the reply.

    Doug

  6. #6
    Daily Rider jurgen's Avatar
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    Can you try to use only the rear to see if you can get it to lock? That might tell you if the rear circuit is in residual mode. Disconnect the rear switch cable to test the switch. Problem with these switches is that they are normally open and only close as you push the pedal. That means the contacts can oxidize when moisture gets in.
    Next, find a friend who has the GS-911 diagnostic tester. That should tell you more.
    Other than that, I'm at the end of my wits now.
    Hope you get it solved. Good luck
    J?rgen
    Red Rocks
    04 R1150GS adv
    04 K1200RS last of the great bricks

  7. #7
    Registered User awagnon's Avatar
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    Doug,

    My 1150RT ABS did exactly the same thing. Eveything seemed to be working except the rear system. Finally fixed by it by disconnecting and re-seating the connector to the rear brake pedal microswitch. I thought initially the switch was bad, but it turned out to just be the connector needed taking apart and re-seating. Nearly drove me nuts trying to find the problem. Has worked fine since.
    Al - Ogden, Utah
    Boxer bikes, boxer dogs, and letterboxing.
    2012 1200RT, 2013 F700GS
    2006 Boxer dog (Paisley)

  8. #8
    DLEVQS
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    Quote Originally Posted by awagnon View Post
    Doug,

    My 1150RT ABS did exactly the same thing. Eveything seemed to be working except the rear system. Finally fixed by it by disconnecting and re-seating the connector to the rear brake pedal microswitch. I thought initially the switch was bad, but it turned out to just be the connector needed taking apart and re-seating. Nearly drove me nuts trying to find the problem. Has worked fine since.
    I did that already - in the process of checking out the microswitch, but I checked it again- internal inspection looks fine and the connector M/F bodies fit together very snugly with no play. Your experience suggests to me that I dig a little deeper into the wiring. That ABS relay on my bike is an incredible piece of work and makes it nearly or actually impossible to check the wires below the relay where they connect, but possibly there is a fault between the connector and the ABS relay that I can locate.

    Yes, this is about driving me nuts!

  9. #9
    Registered User awagnon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougVieques View Post
    I did that already - in the process of checking out the microswitch, but I checked it again- internal inspection looks fine and the connector M/F bodies fit together very snugly with no play. Your experience suggests to me that I dig a little deeper into the wiring. That ABS relay on my bike is an incredible piece of work and makes it nearly or actually impossible to check the wires below the relay where they connect, but possibly there is a fault between the connector and the ABS relay that I can locate.

    Yes, this is about driving me nuts!
    If I recall, the switch is a normally closed connection. I tried jumping the wires at the connector to simulate a closed switch and the ABS faullt went away. That's what made me think the switch was bad, but the switch tested OK with a meter. Put it back together and it worked. Or, if it's a normally open switch, unplugging the connector should resolve the fault if the switch is bad.
    Al - Ogden, Utah
    Boxer bikes, boxer dogs, and letterboxing.
    2012 1200RT, 2013 F700GS
    2006 Boxer dog (Paisley)

  10. #10
    DLEVQS
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    Quote Originally Posted by awagnon View Post
    If I recall, the switch is a normally closed connection. I tried jumping the wires at the connector to simulate a closed switch and the ABS faullt went away. That's what made me think the switch was bad, but the switch tested OK with a meter. Put it back together and it worked. Or, if it's a normally open switch, unplugging the connector should resolve the fault if the switch is bad.
    Al, on mine the microswitch is NC and I will try that - jumping the pins at the connector. Yes, with an Ohm meter the switch tested fine at the connector. I had to use straight pins to get a reading but the brake pedal opened and closed the switch just fine.

    I will try your method and see what develops. Thanks.

  11. #11
    DLEVQS
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    Update - rechecked the rear brake microswitch connector. Jumping the pins on the side that comes from the ABS relay did not change the flashing lights. Leaving the connector body open and turning on the ignition - the front brake lever would not fire up the servo. Interesting that the rear brake switch has to be in the circuit. Long ago the self-test quit working so I am puzzled that it goes part way through its thing.

    Based on a thread I found at ADV rider, I took the bike out and stomped the **** out of the rear brake pedal a bunch of times. I could get the rear wheel to lock up by practically standing on the pedal. It did not do anything for the flashing lights however. The problem reported over at ADVrider sounded identical to mine and the guy took it to the dealer who could get the stuck valve in the ABS freed up with their computer but after that he exercised the rear brake circuit a whole bunch to keep the valve working.

    I am totally cornfused and befuddled now. Anybody care to jump in with suggestions or ideas for further troubleshooting?

    Dealer advice/diagnosis/repair is almost totally out of the question. He is in San Juan Puerto Rico and I live on a little island a day's travel away from there. They also have a shakey reputation and I could bring the bike back with more problems than it has now.

    All and any ideas welcome!

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