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So many questioins so little knowledge

Got it. Mine is hidden behind the black foam piece.

Will the gas in the canister eventually evaporate if I don't tip the bike over or overfill the tank? Probably don't need to worry about it?
 
Got it. Mine is hidden behind the black foam piece.

Will the gas in the canister eventually evaporate if I don't tip the bike over or overfill the tank? Probably don't need to worry about it?

looking at the manual,or trying to...my CD reader is giving me fits this week:banghead
it gives a torque value of 23Nm for that plug...and maybe it has a one time use sealing ring...prob like the copper ones on the banjo fittings on oil & brake lines

Lot's of opinions on the canister...it may evaporate..it may stay clogged since it was for vapor recovery only and it's been doused. Some oilhead guys have reported sucking crud back into the injectors from the older canister. I had a new one here full of water a few weeks back from a submarine bike( sorry Bob:wave) I drained it, but it was cloggged badly.
 
Got the plug out. Its alot easy when you remove the correct part. There is a 16mm nut thing that I can rotate the engine. The sealing ring looks like a hard piece of tan rubber. I think it is reusable. Oh yeah, its now in neutral and the engine turns freely.
I may have this done by next week.
 
Lot's of opinions on the canister...it may evaporate..it may stay clogged since it was for vapor recovery only and it's been doused. Some oilhead guys have reported sucking crud back into the injectors from the older canister. I had a new one here full of water a few weeks back from a submarine bike( sorry Bob:wave) I drained it, but it was cloggged badly.

I will also mention....Back in the olden days, 9 months ago, when opening the gas cap it would sound like a kiss. Try it. Now it sounds like a big ole raspberry when I open the tank for gas. Is that a sign of a clogged canister?
 
I will also mention....Back in the olden days, 9 months ago, when opening the gas cap it would sound like a kiss. Try it. Now it sounds like a big ole raspberry when I open the tank for gas. Is that a sign of a clogged canister?

yes...
there are two vent lines...one from the filler ring hole down to the stand, it doesn't vent the tank once the lid is closed...it just keeps you from spillin' gas over the top of the tank at fillup and drains rainwater away from the recess so it doesn't enter when you open the cap ...and one in the inner tank fitting that goes to the canister. if you pop the hose off from the upper tank at the canister the vacuum should stop forming at the tank. The coolant tank will come off easily so you can see all the hoses.
 
Got the plug out. Its alot easy when you remove the correct part. There is a 16mm nut thing that I can rotate the engine. The sealing ring looks like a hard piece of tan rubber. I think it is reusable. Oh yeah, its now in neutral and the engine turns freely.
I may have this done by next week.

excellent!
 
Does it matter which direction feeler goes in?
Can't use single feeler because it is too stiff to make that curve.
My set may not be 100% complete but if I use two or three to make up the gap they slide in much easier.

On the first cylinder intakes I get .38mm for sure, .40 no way and I can't test .39 because the numbers don't add up.

The exhaust valve numbers are .23mm on the first valve and the second valve is .20mm yes but .23mm no. I can't add the feelers to get .21 or .22mm.

It is very difficult to squeeze the feelers in there at the angle needed.

Oh yeah, what is the range supposed to be?
Does the crank stay in the same position the whole time?
 
here's my gas leak.
The tube is clogged with something and the canister is also clogged.
P8130016.JPG
 
info from the manual:



Crank the engine through half a crankshaft rotation each time and check valve clearance at the appropriate cylinder.



Technical data
Inlet valve clearance
engine cold max 35 ??C
0.18...0.28 mm


Exhaust valve clearance
engine cold max 35 ??C
0.3...0.4 mm



use a copy of the chart Luis posted...easier to keep track of where you have been
also the pic also shows the intake clearance being checked..as long as you can get between the lifter and the camshaft.


Seems the charcoal is coming out of the tube with the gas...def a clogged canister. will not get better for sure ...the older oilheads have the canister above the intake level which made the issue worse...these are close to even...but I would still worry about it sucking into the throttle body assy... I would remove the old one while you are there...maybe find a used one at one of the salvage guys...or spend $49...or...
 
The valve check is complete. I guess it passed. Now onto putting it back together.

P8140019.JPG
 
Stud Muffin?:laugh:laugh:laugh

another tip on the CD...put sealant on the cover gasket on the water pump side...in the valley and on the hump part of gasket

* Apply sealing compound to the gasket around the water pump drive and the half-moon (arrows).
 

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Thanks Steve and Luis. I saw the rtv on the old gasket and also assumed I would need it for those locations. Going to clean all the nook and crannies and start putting it together today.

Is the arrow the shim that would need to be replaced? Or is it part of that? Not that I need to but would you remove the e-clip and just replace the piece with one of the appropriate thickness?

P8140018.JPG
 
Here's the charcoal canister. I found that the pad and spring was soak in gas and cocked allowing the charcoal to bypass it and clog the tube. Kind of odd that the tube had a split near the end.
I'll let sit in the sun to evaporate the gas and see if I can get it back together.
Bike is almost together with no extra parts for some reason. I guess BMW has cut corners and didn't leave anything extra for me to leave off.

P8140017.JPG
 
Took it out for a test ride.......I didn't put the side panels on and lost one of those foam pieces on the highway. After the third pass looking for it I spotted something that could be it or at least it wasn't a piece of tire. Got back to where I saw it and stopped. Sure enough it was the foam piece still intact. Woohoo!

as for the temp...it is running a little hotter than it did before. It normally ran with the temp gauge just above quarter scale the highest I've seen it was at half scale sitting at the border in the heat. Probably was mid to low 90's that day but when moving just above quarter scale.

Now, its just above, just above quarter scale. Still below half scale by quite a bit.

If I had to guess, looking really, really close at the gauge it may be a pixel or two warmer. Not much and I know I could be seeing things but it is still well below half scale and sitting in the heat and idling it still never got above half scale.

So is my temp ok?
 
Been out ridin'....

both of ours sit around 4 bars...even after a 100 degree ambient temp ride. If you bled the system and topped off the radiator after it warmed up...should be good.

Still chuckiling about the "thermal barrier" blowing off...at least you found it...:dance
 
I'm glad I could give you a chuckle. How about this one.

After I got done test riding I pull into the garage, set my helmet on the work bench then stepped over the bucket of coolant on the floor. One foot made it, the other didn't.

P8150015.JPG
 
and you had to use the Barbie Blanket! :laugh I ran out of those a LONG time ago


I am not sayin' a word...between the oil pan and the coolant pan...not sure which one gives me more action...never set it in a "safe" place it seems.
 
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