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Changing Spark Plugs?

J

JALAIMO146577

Guest
Doing some basic maintenance ork on my newly acquired R1100RS, I thought I'd change the spark plugs. Pulled the cover and ignition wires off and reached in with a 5/8" deep socket could not reach the plugs. Checked with my trusty Haynes manual and it says "Remove the old spark plugs as described in Section 2 and install new ones". Not a single mention of the procedure in Section 2.

It seems rediculous to me, but do I have to remove the rocker covers to do a simple spark plug replacement?

:banghead
 
IF you are not using the spark plug tool that came in the tool kit, then your socket is probably too large in diameter and hanging up. Had the same problem with my 99 RT. Use the tool kit socket or find one that is skinny enough to go through the valve cover
Good luck.
 
Thanks I was hoping it was absic routine service. 5/8" correct?
 
Yeah you need a reduced diameter socket to clear the head. Which the tool kit has and might be your only option. Ive seen them ground or turned thinner.
 
Did you remove the valve cover? If not, the only tool that will work is the SP wrench from the tool kit because the rubber gasket on the SP tunnel will block a regular socket (unless it has been ground down).
Once you remove the valve cover you should be able to reach it with a regular 5/8 socket.
At least that's what works on my '00 1100RT and '04 1150RS.
 
PETDOC said:
Snap On makes one that fits, ....]
Click to expand...

I like SnapOn stuff also, BUT, paulmul is correct. It is the inner doughnut seal that blocks most sockets and every bike seems different probably because every doughnut seal squishes a bit more or a bit less. On some bikes the HF long reach socket works fine. Some people say it doesnt work. Same with Craftsman thin wall and even the SnapOn.

If you remove the valve cover first, pretty much any sparkplug socket will fit .
 
I own lots of special tools, but when it comes to changing sparkplugs on my 99 rt, I use the wrench from the tool kit...
 
breyfogle said:
I like SnapOn stuff also, BUT, paulmul is correct. It is the inner doughnut seal that blocks most sockets and every bike seems different probably because every doughnut seal squishes a bit more or a bit less. On some bikes the HF long reach socket works fine. Some people say it doesnt work. Same with Craftsman thin wall and even the SnapOn.
.
Click to expand...

I own an '04 1150 GS so I can't speak specifically on what works in the 1100's; however, the SnapOn S9706KA socket will remove the primary and secondary plugs on my bike without first removing the rocker cover. There are several threads in ADVRIDER where people have gotten a spark plug socket jammed inside the valve cover (went in but won't come out or turn) of an 1150. Apparently the 1200's have a little more room and sockets that won't work in the 1150 will work in the 1200.
If the S9706 works on an 1100 the Ebay one is currently at a good price, as mine new with shipping was about $32.
 
The one in my toolkit was FREE, and works perfectly well. (jsut had to buy an expensive but wonderful bike to get that free tool).

guys, unless you don't have the factory toolkit, you are waaaaay overthinking this one!
 
bikerfish1100 said:
The one in my toolkit was FREE, and works perfectly well. (jsut had to buy an expensive but wonderful bike to get that free tool).

guys, unless you don't have the factory toolkit, you are waaaaay overthinking this one!
Click to expand...


I learned the hard way that my mechanical skill does not include a torque-calibrated right hand. I envy those who can put a steel spark plug into an alumium head time after time and never strip the threads. I can not do it so a torque wrench is mandatory (for me).

It takes a fair bit of creativity to fit a 3/8" torque wrench to the stamped metal factory toolkit sparkplug wrench.
 
breyfogle said:
I learned the hard way that my mechanical skill does not include a torque-calibrated right hand. I envy those who can put a steel spark plug into an alumium head time after time and never strip the threads. I can not do it so a torque wrench is mandatory (for me).

It takes a fair bit of creativity to fit a 3/8" torque wrench to the stamped metal factory toolkit sparkplug wrench.
Click to expand...

But you can do it. Just braze a nut on the outboard end of it - then use a torque wrench and socket of your choice which fits the nut to your hearts content.

Or do one of the several things previously mentioned.

Buy a thin walled 5/8" spark plug socket with an OD no greater than .82" (21mm)

or

Have a 5/8" spark plug socket turned down on a lathe to an OD of .82"

or

Remove and replace the spark plugs when you already have the valve cover off to check the valve adjustment anyway.
 
I found a 3/8 drive socket in my toolbox that made a perfect pressfit into the toolkit sparkplug wrench.Plenty tight for the little tourqe a sparkplug gets.
 
I sent an email to BMWMOA about six months ago for their Touring Tips section and this was never published (FWIW):

Want a spark plug socket for the upper plugs on your boxer engine that you can actually use with a torque wrench? If you're willing to sacrifice a beloved 5/8 socket, attach it to a long extension and turn slowly and evenly on a belt sander or similar tool as you lightly grind some of the material along the entire lenght of the socket away (to decrease the diameter). You might be really surprised how far off the mark one can be when it comes to guessing the proper spark plug torque using only the BMW tool kit socket and a "calibrated elbow".
Works for me. :beer
 
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