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Thread: Euro Bars?

  1. #1
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    Euro Bars?

    I am in the process of bringing an R60/6 back to life (my first Airhead) and I'm thinking of switching to the low euro bars for a different (more streamlined) riding position. What do you think? Will the bike handle differently? Better? Worse? Also, the bike did not come with a steering damper. Is this worth adding? Bike seems to handle ok without it.
    Any input appreciated.

  2. #2
    airhead butcher
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    I like em. I think they transform the bike and make it much sportier feeling. Mine are now upside down and backwards for an even sportier feel

  3. #3
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    i have an RS which had to have the damper removed for awhile. With the bearings adjusted right, no problem. Sometimes I think the damper encourages neglect of steering heads and fork alignment.
    Euro bars are easier on your neck and back on a naked bike at high speed. Anything which puts your hands closer to line of axle to forks will make your road feel more precise, as well. I see no downside to euro bars
    Last edited by jforgo; 07-14-2009 at 03:13 PM.

  4. #4
    lastrada
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    Go for it! I just installed euro bars on my /5, and they make it look 100% better. I always felt the USA bars were way too high, I felt like i was riding a chopper with ape hangers (kidding some what). I don't know what brands you looking at,but if you get Flanders be prepared to spend a lot of time fighting to get the controls on. They seem to be bigger in diameter than the others.

  5. #5
    Registered User boxerkuh's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    I am big fan of the Euro bars. I have them on both of my Airheads. I have tried the stock bars on both bikes, but don't like them. The Euro bars give me the perfect compromise. The idea between the different bars (Euro and US) is actually very simple... In Europe the "normal" riding position is with a slight lean forward to have better control of the bike, in the US the "normal" riding position is laid back with more weight on your back and straight up. Have fun with the change over... don't forget the cable length, shorter bars might require shorter cables...
    Keep the rubber side down!!
    1986 R 80 RS
    1992 R 100 R
    BMW MOA Life member; Ironbutt Member; Airhead Member

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies everyone. I think I'll go for it! I figured I might need shorter cables so I guess I'll order them. Aside from all the valuable riding benefits you all list, I also agree they look a lot better too! Thanks again.

  7. #7
    mollied
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    I have a 1975 R75/6 with USA bars.My question is would i get by without changing my cables to drop down to Euro bars? TIA,Stan

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdaley View Post
    I have a 1975 R75/6 with USA bars.My question is would i get by without changing my cables to drop down to Euro bars? TIA,Stan
    On my R65 I swapped out the USA for R90S bars, which seems to me a similar change. I loosened and rerouted some of the cables with more generous curves in appropriate areas to make it work well - no binding etc. The funkiest part was the brake hose from the handlebar - which won't be a problem for you unless you have done the master cylinder to bar conversion.

  9. #9
    TimmmyD
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    I also replaced my US ape hangers with Euro bars on my /5 (and replaced all of the cables as well). The look fits the bike much better and the riding position fits me much better.

    ducatipaso, I didn't recognize that the bars on your rat were Euros. I may have to give that a try on the ol' toaster. Flip flop & fly...

  10. #10
    Rally Rat
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    Your lucky day... check this out on IBMWR:

    handle bars & crash bars
    K & N chrome euro bars, 22mm, 29.5 inch wide, 2 inch rise,5.5 inch PB, 4.5 inch CW. NEW never used. $35.00 obo. Also,one piece crash bars, chrome, for r bikes. $ 50.00. Plus, Header Nut wrench for air heads, made by webco, $25.00 obo
    Price: best offer, plus shipping
    Location: Richmond, VA
    Contact Paul Bertholet at
    Posted Wednesday, July 15, 2009 at 16:04:51 (EDT)



  11. #11
    Nutfarm
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    With the euro bars you can use the US cables, but it looks much better with the correct cables. The front brake cable is the same, alittle rerouting is nessasary, the clutch and throttle cables are shorter fit much better and make a much cleaner install. Just pull the longer switch wires into the headlamp shell.

    I've switched mine back and forth several times over the years.

    Ken G.

  12. #12
    mollied
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    The route I'm thinking of is going with the BMW K75C Bars which are in between the Euros and the high USA bars.Anyone out there have a set they want to unload?Stan

  13. #13
    Rally Rat
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    I have a pair of K-bike bars on both of my airheads, I have found them to be quite comfortable with a little bit of forward lean. Not much room for the various cables/switches etc, but it all works fine. This is a pic of my cafe'd /6 with the bars, rotated and dropped as far as possible without whacking the tank at the stops. Surprisingly good ergos for me at 5'7".............







    PS fwiw, I removed the steering damper, rebuilt the head/bearing setup and am tickled with response. No issues whatsoever, quick steering with easy input, and can ride "look ma, no hands!" when I want a stretch...... he he he

  14. #14
    Brett
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    I have Euro or M bars on my 1970 /5 and I love it. After I get in fourth gear I slip my feet back to the back pegs (only when not in town) and it really feels great and solid. Some things you need, I put small risers on so the bars would still turn in the fairing I have and the clutch cable it a different one I got from Bob's BMW but the break cable is standard. The throttle or cruise control I run a little tight so I don't have to keep a death grip on the throttle and I keep the steering damper about neutral.

    Brett Endress
    Altoona Pa

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the advice/encouragement, everybody. I installed the low bars today and I LOVE them! I like the riding position better and the bike looks better, too. Steering feels a bit heavier but I prefer it this way. Haven't ordered cables yet but it looks like it might be necessary. Clutch and front brake seem fine (will keep them) but the throttle cables are a little cramped and when they flop around it affects how the carbs behave. I tried several different positions and routes but couldn't find anything that worked all the time. Will def. swap them out. Thanks again, everyone. Very happy with the switch (and with this forum!).

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