How to use a bike jack

asaint said:

Jforgo,

Isn't the oilpan the jackpoint on an R100RT? It seems real solid. I don't see what else I can use as a jack point.

Asaint

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That puts a fair amount of weight on the pan and the same amount on the frame bolts. That is also less stable. I don't know that there is a designated jack point for our bikes; I haven't seen anything to indicate they expected them to be on a jack.

The one person I have known that used the type of jack you have fabricated and attached four small cradles similar to what you would see on a jack stand. They put them on the lower frame rails. Still a little shaky, but better.

Randy,

I use small 2x4's running the length of the bike. This means 100% of the weight is on the oilpan. The exhaust gets in the way of using the frame as a jackpoint.

Big question - do I continue to use the oilpan to jack up the bike or am I at risk for damaging something?

Asaint

If you can swing it, get a drive on ramp.

Best thing i ever did.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91764

Semper,

Interesting... I see there is a Harbor Freight about 20 miles from me. I wonder if they have this in stock there.

I think I can return the jack and then pay a difference of around $170. hmmmmm.

asaint

Semper_Fi said:

If you can swing it, get a driveon ramp.

Best thing i ever did.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91764

Click to expand...

I was just going to make the same suggestion!

Some time ago I went to Sears, bought a jack and then, once I saw what an unstable pia it was going to be, I returned it and drove over to HF and bought their cheapest lift.

That was three years ago and believe me, it's the best dollar I have ever spent on motorcycle tools, next to my service manuals. Some guys have griped about the HF lifts not being as well made as the US manufactured ones and thats probably true but mine works just fine. It's stable, rugged and it makes working on the bikes much less taxing. In fact, last time I checked, Ted Porter was using two or three of these as his shop lifts and they were holding up just fine.

The HF lifts usually sell for $300 with a coupon and at $100 more than that fancy jack, it's a huge bargain.

Click for full size!
<a href="http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w238/kenwhitehawk/83%20R-100RS/?action=view&current=LATESTFULLFILE003-2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w238/kenwhitehawk/83%20R-100RS/th_LATESTFULLFILE003-2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

Repairs won't break your back, you can finally get the bike really clean and if youre short of garage space, just store your bike on the lift. It allows me to lift the bike up out of the "Scratch Zone" when I'm not riding it!



PS: You may be able to find a 20% off coupon here: http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?p=10074095#post10074095

asaint said:

Semper,

Interesting... I see there is a Harbor Freight about 20 miles from me. I wonder if they have this in stock there.

I think I can return the jack and then pay a difference of around $170. hmmmmm.

asaint

Click to expand...

Let us know how it goes!

Semper_Fi said:

If you can swing it, get a drive on ramp.

Best thing i ever did.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91764

Click to expand...

Yes, I have one of these. The best thing about this one, which another one they sell does not feature, is the removable rear plate to drop the rear wheel thru the bottom

Two ideas that have worked for me:

1) A 2x6 (or 8) under the centerstand. It's a pain, and perhaps a two person job, to get it up, but it leaves enough room to get the wheel out.

2) A couple of eyebolts in the rafters of your garage -- use tie down straps to lift the bike.

Did some searching around on the net. There is, what appears to be an excellent adapter for that jack. If you only need to jack up your bike once in a while, this just might do the trick.

http://garage-toys.com/unmoad.html

On any airhead i've ever owned (all mid-to-late '70's vintage, not sure how much that matters), it was easy enough to remove the rear wheel by dropping the front wheel out, tilting the bike forward on the c-stand until the forks contacted a support object (milk crate or 4 gal paint bucket worked fine), and then pulling the rear wheel. Often changed both front and rear tires like that- no real issue.

i've since bought a H-F lift, which works fine as well. A strap across the seat holds the bike in place just fine. tilting forward or back is a theoretical concern, but i've yet to see it be a problem in practice. in fact, once the bike tips forward (weight of fairing will send it there), it is then more stable than it had been.

bikerfish1100 said:

On any airhead i've ever owned (all mid-to-late '70's vintage, not sure how much that matters), it was easy enough to remove the rear wheel by dropping the front wheel out, tilting the bike forward on the c-stand until the forks contacted a support object (milk crate or 4 gal paint bucket worked fine), and then pulling the rear wheel. Often changed both front and rear tires like that- no real issue.

i've since bought a H-F lift, which works fine as well. A strap across the seat holds the bike in place just fine. tilting forward or back is a theoretical concern, but i've yet to see it be a problem in practice. in fact, once the bike tips forward (weight of fairing will send it there), it is then more stable than it had been.

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What part of your bike rests on the HF lift? I have one of the small HF motorcycle lifts - looks like it will hit the exhaust pipes.

Manfred said:

What part of your bike rests on the HF lift? I have one of the small HF motorcycle lifts - looks like it will hit the exhaust pipes.

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bottom of motor & trans.

I have this same Sears lift and used it once to change my rear tire. Even with help it was a bit spooky even with the bike strapped down. Next time, I "kneeled" the bike. Simple, stable. I did it to practice what I would have to do on the roadside. I will never use the lift again for a tire change.

ok,

I seriously like this technique. Not only for removing a tire in my garage, but also for the off chance I need to do this while on the road.

Thanks!~
asaint

Just be sure to secure the front axle to the c-stand with a couple of straps. I carry a pair of simple straps in my tank bag just in case...

I have an 83 R100RS , When on the centerstand it sits with the front wheel in the air. When you pull the rear wheel clear of the final drive splines the weight of the front wheel tilts the bike forward onto the front wheel. there is no need for any stands,jacking, or tie downs.

mohler said:

I have an 83 R100RS , When on the centerstand it sits with the front wheel in the air. When you pull the rear wheel clear of the final drive splines the weight of the front wheel tilts the bike forward onto the front wheel. there is no need for any stands,jacking, or tie downs.

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Does your bike have the saddlebag brackets, as shown above? That's the crux of the biscuit for my RT. First time I changed the rear tire, I removed the right side saddlebag bracket - a PITA. My Yamaha XS850 had a hinged rear fender that one could fold up, out of the way, allowing the wheel to be removed without messing with the hard luggage.

Manfred said:

Does your bike have the saddlebag brackets, as shown above? That's the crux of the biscuit for my RT. First time I changed the rear tire, I removed the right side saddlebag bracket - a PITA. My Yamaha XS850 had a hinged rear fender that one could fold up, out of the way, allowing the wheel to be removed without messing with the hard luggage.

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no, you leave the brackets on. Tilt the bike forward enough to give plenty ground clearance, drop the wheel DOWN, and then back past the rear hub. Exceedingly wide tires (stock is 4.25") may coomplicate things.

Manfred said:

Does your bike have the saddlebag brackets, as shown above? That's the crux of the biscuit for my RT. First time I changed the rear tire, I removed the right side saddlebag bracket - a PITA. My Yamaha XS850 had a hinged rear fender that one could fold up, out of the way, allowing the wheel to be removed without messing with the hard luggage.

Click to expand...

No, I have newer style integral cases, no need to remove the brackets.