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Hexhead - shifting - into 1st from neutral

talmadge_w

Member
Apologies if this is a repeat question but I'm new to 1200s. I recently purchased a low miles 2008 R1200Gs in apparently excellent condition. My only gripe is that (warm or cold) it's difficult to engage 1st from neutral. This normally requires 2-3 attempts with revving the engine between before it catches. Once in gear and in motion there are no shifting problems. The dealer says this is not unusual for this bike. If this really is "normal" I can live with it but if it is a problem I want to get it fixed while the bike is still in warrantee.
 
I think I'm going to make this a "stickie".. it is very frequently a concern with new BMW owners.

Normal. Unlike bikes with wet clutches (which always have some "drag" through them - keeping the transmission gears spinning slowly even when the clutch is pulled in) - a bike with a dry clutch allows the gears to come to a complete stop when the clutch is pulled in.

The gears engage via nubs on the sides of the gears - and if the nubs are lined up nub to nub, rather than nub to recess - you can't get into the gear.

The technique to use is - engage (let the lever out) the clutch to get the gears spinning again, then pull it in (disengage) and QUICKLY shift into 1st (before the gears stop spinning.) It will snick right into 1st gear. There is no need to rev the engine doing it this way.

If you're sitting at a light waiting to go - and you've shifted into neutral while waiting (we won't go into why this isn't a good idea..) - as soon as you pull in the clutch lever - push down on the shifter. It should snick right into gear. No delay is the "trick"..

It's normal, the dealer would have nothing to fix.. it's all technique.

Good luck!
 
The technique I use when I don't get the direct shift into first is to simply roll the bike back a few inches. This rotates the driven gear set, and allows engagement without the possibility of inadvertantly getting the drive gears spinning too much and really clunking the N-1st shift. I'm a little conservative, mechanically speaking, which is to say "why do it rough when you can do it easy?". My caveat to that is in a traffic light situation where I don't anticipate the light sequence and get stuck needing things to happen in a timely manner.
Paul in CA
 
The technique I use when I don't get the direct shift into first is to simply roll the bike back a few inches. This rotates the driven gear set, and allows engagement without the possibility of inadvertantly getting the drive gears spinning too much and really clunking the N-1st shift. I'm a little conservative, mechanically speaking, which is to say "why do it rough when you can do it easy?". My caveat to that is in a traffic light situation where I don't anticipate the light sequence and get stuck needing things to happen in a timely manner.
Paul in CA
Ah - things are so much more mellow in CA...

In NJ if we did that we'd be run over from behind.. :dance
 
Thanks!

Thanks for the replies! Sort of figured there was "operator error" involved somewhere but it's good to know I'm not going to leave a pile of gears on the ground at the gas pump next time I start off.

Talmadge
 
With the clutch lever back, I apply pressure to the shift pedal, then slightly release the clutch lever to snick into 1st, then squeeze the clutch. Discovered it one day in my driveway. So when I pull up to a stop light, I usually go to neutral and snick (good description) it into 1st to go. This process takes less than a second. Works very well :thumb.

Ride safe.

Rich
 
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So does letting it warm up also help?

or I also heard that letting the Bikes warm up,is not a good Idea,although mine shifts better when warm .

So does any body have any input?
 
So does letting it warm up also help?

or I also heard that letting the Bikes warm up,is not a good Idea,although mine shifts better when warm .

So does any body have any input?

As the gear oil warms up - it thins out - and the gears continue spinning longer since the oil isn't dragging the spin down as quickly. That can make it easier to get into gear. But - use the right technique (pull-in clutch/shift immediately) and it shouldn't be a concern.
 
Since we seem to be tackling various shifting issues ~ I notice the shift from 1st to 2nd to makes a 'thud' ...sort of . . There are times when it doesn't thud and the shift seems like all the other gear changes. But I have yet to figure out exactly how to get the non-thud shift to 2nd every time. Low RPM's help, but don't always guarantee.

anyone figured this out?
 
Yesterday I re-learned that this works much better if the kickstand is up. Doh!
Used to the old Airhead.
 
Yesterday I re-learned that this works much better if the kickstand is up. Doh!
Used to the old Airhead.

For such a simple thing - I can't count how many times I have done that; and most times right in my driveway. :banghead
 
Since we seem to be tackling various shifting issues ~ I notice the shift from 1st to 2nd to makes a 'thud' ...sort of . . There are times when it doesn't thud and the shift seems like all the other gear changes. But I have yet to figure out exactly how to get the non-thud shift to 2nd every time. Low RPM's help, but don't always guarantee.

anyone figured this out?


I have been able to eliminate the 1st to 2nd gear clunk most of the time by adjusting my clutch timing and lentgh of pull depending on how easy or hard I am accelerating. Brisk clutch and shift action above 4500 rpm almost always eliminates the clunk too.

This also happens to me when down shifting but I say "loud grears save lives!"
 
Shifting

So does letting it warm up also help?

or I also heard that letting the Bikes warm up,is not a good Idea,although mine shifts better when warm .


I say no need to warm up, also noticed no one has mentioned the amount of clutch pull you need, or don't need, to shift. How about one of you higher tech guys/ladies covering this. My impression is one may be over pulling the clutch and this is not required to effectively shift. And is actually a no-no. I defer to the 'real wrenchers'.
 
So does letting it warm up also help?

or I also heard that letting the Bikes warm up,is not a good Idea,although mine shifts better when warm .

So does any body have any input?

Actually, the owners manual and the folks in my local BMW service shop strongly advise against any warm-up period for my 1200GS. As we all know, those lovely jugs crave air movement to keep them cool, lest their silver paint turns a ghastly black and the oil level viewing window melts and falls out. (Pardon the drama, it IS Halloween).
 
:bikes I agree with Rich. Just apply pressure to the shifter and release the culuch lever a little.
 
I,m a rider that shifts into neutral at stoplites. What are the thoughts on this practice? The release bearing used in the clutch slave cylinder does,nt look to be very strong.
 
There have been two times in the last 4 years where having the bike in first gear and ready to go have saved me getting rear ended. Once a car stops behind me, I sometimes will go to neutral. Sometimes you have things you need to do with both hands. But never until a car is stopped and blocking my behind.

I never worry about clutch/bearing wear. I'm not a BMW expert, but I've never had any clutch problems on any bike short of normal wear and replacement issues.
 
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