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Uni Go Trailers Quality questions

but i have personally followed bushtech trailers down the road, and watched them swing so badly that i was scared out of my mind. To the point that i passed him, because i didn't want to be anywhere near him when he crashed.....

now i have also pulled RV trailers, and the proper hitch and weight distribution do make a difference with almost all trailers... although not as much with ones this long!! :nyah

Weight distribution is always a key concern for any tour. In 2008 we ran our Uni-Go at 100 mph in Nevada. Never had problems. And if you think that a Bushtec can catch us through the twisties of Penn. ...... (ask Statdawg)... I like Bushtec but it has performance limitations as well. Uni-Go is an excellent concept for sport touring and we'll stay with ours for the foreseeable future. - Bob
 
Weight distribution is always a key concern for any tour. In 2008 we ran our Uni-Go at 100 mph in Nevada.
Resurrecting an old thread because it is precisely on point -- a couple further questions please, Bob?

Setting the scene:

K1600GTL with new-to-me 2007 Uni-Go whose owner towed it for many K's of miles with no issues.

New DMC Sidecars/Dauntless receiver hitch, with receiver bar for the Uni-Go plate:

CIMG2538.jpg


CIMG2539.jpg


Air pressure in Uni-Go tire set to 26.5 psi (26 psi on swingarm sticker)

[EDIT]: I noticed the pic shows the hitch at the lowest of its 3 postions -- I actually towed with it in the highest position (less bar sticking below the fender flap -- don't know if that would make a difference).

I've pulled Bushtec Quantum, but this is my first single-track trailer.



My first test ride with the trailer, with about 55lb of ballast in the trailer (long bag with camping gear, nose down in front of trailer/tail of bag up by lid latch); result:

Big wobble :uhoh:huh (fishtailing? couldn't see it in the mirrors) above ~55-60 mph.

On return to my garage, I realized that I forgot to tighten the thumbscrew in the side of the hitch plate, so I need to take another test ride.

In the meantime, a couple Qs:

Could the wobble have been caused just by the loose thumbscrew?

Regarding your weight distribution comment above, I understand your comment about spreading the load, shared with the bike; my question: Is there a preferred weight distribution pattern for inside the trailer itself?

Thanks!
Mark
 
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Mark,
I would be very weary about using a non-UniGo hitch because one wheel trailer sway stresses are completely different than two wheeled trailers. Using a hitch made for two wheel trailers does not provide the correct towing needed for one wheel trailers. Think about it, a two wheel trailer just needs to be pulled whereas a one wheel trailer needs lateral support!
Ask the manufactures for their advice.
Ride Safe,
Robert



Resurrecting an old thread because it is precisely on point -- a couple further questions please, Bob?

Setting the scene:

K1600GTL with new-to-me 2007 Uni-Go whose owner towed it for many K's of miles with no issues.

New DMC Sidecars/Dauntless receiver hitch, with receiver bar for the Uni-Go plate:

CIMG2538.jpg


CIMG2539.jpg


Air pressure in Uni-Go tire set to 26.5 psi (26 psi on swingarm sticker)

[EDIT]: I noticed the pic shows the hitch at the lowest of its 3 postions -- I actually towed with it in the highest position (less bar sticking below the fender flap -- don't know if that would make a difference).

I've pulled Bushtec Qunatum, but this is my first single-track trailer.



My first test ride with the trailer, with about 55lb of ballast in the trailer (long bag with camping gear, nose down in front of trailer tail of bag up by lid latch); result:

Big wobble :uhoh:huh (fishtailing? couldn't see it in the mirrors) above ~55-60 mph.

On return to my garage, I realized that I forgot to tighten the thumbscrew in the side of the hitch plate, so I need to take another test ride.

In the meantime, a couple Qs:

Could the wobble have been caused just by the loose thumbscrew?

Regarding your weight distribution comment above, I understand your comment about spreading the load, shared with the bike; my question: Is there a preferred weight distribution pattern for inside the trailer itself?

Thanks!
Mark
 
Mark,
I would be very weary about using a non-UniGo hitch because one wheel trailer sway stresses are completely different than two wheeled trailers. Using a hitch made for two wheel trailers does not provide the correct towing needed for one wheel trailers. Think about it, a two wheel trailer just needs to be pulled whereas a one wheel trailer needs lateral support!
Ask the manufactures for their advice.
Ride Safe,
Robert

I agree, just looking at that setup makes me nervous. There is a lot of twisting force exerted on that forward tube. It is substantially smaller than the Unigo counterpart. Lateral support is also mandatory - a quick review of Unigo hitches will show that.
 
Quick Response: 1) cinch screw should be tight and 2) most importantly and as pointed out by others, that hitch WILL flex considerably. That would be most likely lead to some sort of 'wardrobe malfunction'. The alignment of the trailer will be shifting according to the changing angles of bike and trailer. (read wobble) The two must remain at the same angle of alignment. However, try that cinch pin and see if you notice any difference but my suspicion is that the change will be moderate. BTW, any more than 65 lbs in the trailer seems a bit much. A combined weight (bike and trailer) is about 130 lbs with 30lbs on the hitch. I also suggest that you not have a loaded trailer with an unloaded bike. I got a wobble that way set off by a blast by a passing tractor trailer.

I showed your hitch to Mary and she said "Holy Jesus!". I take from that that she concurred with my assessment. Be careful. - Bob
 
Many thanks for the input folks.

I hate the idea of having to replace the brand-new DMC hitch for the Uni-Go version, but I will go there if I have to :(

One other thing I will be looking into is whether I can remove any slack between the receiver bar and the receiver tube (shims maybe?). The DMC hitch itself is very robust. I suspect the receiver bar's slack in the receiver tube is contributing some free play to the wobble.
 
Many thanks for the input folks.

I hate the idea of having to replace the brand-new DMC hitch for the Uni-Go version, but I will go there if I have to :(

One other thing I will be looking into is whether I can remove any slack between the receiver bar and the receiver tube (shims maybe?). The DMC hitch itself is very robust. I suspect the receiver bar's slack in the receiver tube is contributing some free play to the wobble.

you may not want to "throw the baby out with the bathwater" on this. The whole assembly must be stiff and seemingly unmovable. You may possibly look into a way to further brace the hitch. I would have eliminated the lower extension part and brought the unit closer to the originating down piece from the bike frame. Seems easier to brace. I am also thinking that you have your bike on the center stand and thus the trailer looks like it is too high in the front. Cannot see how the hitch system is running on the bike. Should be NO flex here. I even had our Uni-go hitch reinforced because of some flexing and a hairline crack. Lot of twisting forces back there.

However, before going through all this just call Jay at Dauntless. He used to be a Uni-go dealer as well and is a pretty smart guy in fabrication. Maybe he can redo this for you and/or give some good advice. He was developing his own one wheel trailer back in 07 when we met up with him so maybe this hitch is part of that assembly. Keep us posted. - Bob
 
you may not want to "throw the baby out with the bathwater" on this. The whole assembly must be stiff and seemingly unmovable. You may possibly look into a way to further brace the hitch. I would have eliminated the lower extension part and brought the unit closer to the originating down piece from the bike frame. Seems easier to brace. I am also thinking that you have your bike on the center stand and thus the trailer looks like it is too high in the front. Cannot see how the hitch system is running on the bike. Should be NO flex here. I even had our Uni-go hitch reinforced because of some flexing and a hairline crack. Lot of twisting forces back there.

However, before going through all this just call Jay at Dauntless. He used to be a Uni-go dealer as well and is a pretty smart guy in fabrication. Maybe he can redo this for you and/or give some good advice. He was developing his own one wheel trailer back in 07 when we met up with him so maybe this hitch is part of that assembly. Keep us posted. - Bob
Thanks for the further input, Bob.

I will be getting in contact with Jay -- in my dealings with him so far, I'd give him a thumbs-up, too.

BTW, I agree with shortening the receiver bar -- there is plenty of clearance under the rear fender to have the Uni-Go hitch plate be positions directly on/against the part of the bar which goes up into the receiver tube. I also think that drilling and tapping a couple holes for thumbscrews to lock down the receiver bar against the inside of the receiver tube would help eliminate slack between the bar and the tube as a source of lateral hitch plate motion.
 
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Thanks for the further input, Bob.

I will be getting in contact with Jay -- in my dealings with him so far, I'd give him a thumbs-up, too.

BTW, I agree with shortening the receiver bar -- there is plenty of clearance under the rear fender to have the Uni-Go hitch plate be positions directly on/against the part of the bar which goes up into the receiver tube. I also think that drilling and tapping a couple holes for thumbscrews to lock down the receiver bar against the inside of the receiver tube would help eliminate slack between the bar and the tube as a source of lateral hitch plate motion.

PM sent - Bob
 
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Update

Thanks again to all for the suggestions. I now have a rock-solid hitch arrangement for my Uni-Go, with two modifications:

1. Shortening of the hitch receiver bar to bring the trailer closer to the bike:

Before:

CIMG2539.jpg


After:

CIMG2647.jpg


2. Drilling the receiver and the receiver bar to permit positive bolting of the bar to the receiver to eliminate the remaining small lateral and fore-aft play between the tubes. I used a pair of M8x1.25 thumbscrews and a coupling nut at the top, and a M8x1.25 Allen bolt at the bottom of the receiver. This arrangement makes removing/installing the receiver bar take more time, but it's worth the bother to have a no-slop set up:

CIMG2650.jpg


CIMG2652.jpg


CIMG2654.jpg


CIMG2655.jpg
 
:thumb:thumb Excellent Mark. Enjoy the ride, the convenience and the reliability of your new setup. Now you can spend more time practicing backing the little rig :laugh Be careful of the 45 degree angle while backing because the sudden 'lock' can twist your balance dramatically. Outside of that.... enjoy! Glad that it all worked out for you. - Bob
 
:thumb:thumb Excellent Mark. Enjoy the ride, the convenience and the reliability of your new setup. Now you can spend more time practicing backing the little rig :laugh Be careful of the 45 degree angle while backing because the sudden 'lock' can twist your balance dramatically. Outside of that.... enjoy! Glad that it all worked out for you. - Bob
Thanks, Bob, and thanks for the head's up -- I had not thought about the consequences of unexpectedly reaching the point of binding the universal joint! I never had that issue with my Bushtec, because I could see the trailer when I was backing, and the Bushtec hitch pin would let the trailer rotate all the way back to the saddlebag before there was a problem. I expect there will be more than one occassion when I just unhook the Uni-Go and set it aside while I maneuver out!
 
Thanks, Bob, and thanks for the head's up -- I had not thought about the consequences of unexpectedly reaching the point of binding the universal joint! I never had that issue with my Bushtec, because I could see the trailer when I was backing, and the Bushtec hitch pin would let the trailer rotate all the way back to the saddlebag before there was a problem. I expect there will be more than one occassion when I just unhook the Uni-Go and set it aside while I maneuver out!

you'll get used to it. Unhooking is a PITA. Two hints: 1) use mirrors only and get used to the turning angles and 2) sometimes it is useful to just put the sidestand down... get off... and go to the back and lift the trailer to a much better angle (lift point on body on each side of wheel (down low). Have fun. - Bob
 
Final Update --

you'll get used to it. Unhooking is a PITA. Two hints: 1) use mirrors only and get used to the turning angles and 2) sometimes it is useful to just put the sidestand down... get off... and go to the back and lift the trailer to a much better angle (lift point on body on each side of wheel (down low). Have fun. - Bob
Today I had a chance to take the Uni-Go out with the modified hitch receiver and receiver bar. I drove it to work (No. VA suburbs to downtown DC), including congested crawling and 65-70 mph highway time.

I'm pleased to report the rig is considerably more stable than my first couple of test rides -- quite satisfactory. Next test is in a couple weeks, heading to the MOA Gettysburg event.

And Bob, thanks again for the heads-up on the turning angles -- I was surprised how quickly the u-joint reaches its limits. Also, this --

2) sometimes it is useful to just put the sidestand down... get off... and go to the back and lift the trailer to a much better angle (lift point on body on each side of wheel (down low)
is *exactly* what I did this morning -- much more efficient than waddling back-n-forth on the bike with short legs! :thumb
 
you'll get used to it. Unhooking is a PITA. Two hints: 1) use mirrors only and get used to the turning angles and 2) sometimes it is useful to just put the sidestand down... get off... and go to the back and lift the trailer to a much better angle (lift point on body on each side of wheel (down low). Have fun. - Bob
Thats what I have Her for!:D :stick
 
R1200RT and a Unigo

I've just read a fair number of posts both on the MOA and STOC forums about Unigo trailers and have seen about a 50-50 split between owners who have had their bad experiences and those who have nothing but praise for the little unit.
Most of the fixes suggested seem to be related to either loading of the trailer/bike combo and hitch set-ups. A fair number of the posts I've read we're from several years ago.
I am seriously considering the purchase of a Unigo and am wondering if the manufacture's quality issues have been addressed both with the trailer and the hitch.
I too like to ride long and far and cannot abide issues of poor quality or issues regarding high speed wobbles.
So the questions I will put forward are 1: have the quality/stability issues been resolved on new Unigos, 2: how much $ do they cost and 3: where is the nearest distributor? (the City of Kawartha Lakes is in southern Ontario)
 
I've just read a fair number of posts both on the MOA and STOC forums about Unigo trailers and have seen about a 50-50 split between owners who have had their bad experiences and those who have nothing but praise for the little unit.
Most of the fixes suggested seem to be related to either loading of the trailer/bike combo and hitch set-ups. A fair number of the posts I've read we're from several years ago.
I am seriously considering the purchase of a Unigo and am wondering if the manufacture's quality issues have been addressed both with the trailer and the hitch.
I too like to ride long and far and cannot abide issues of poor quality or issues regarding high speed wobbles.
So the questions I will put forward are 1: have the quality/stability issues been resolved on new Unigos, 2: how much $ do they cost and 3: where is the nearest distributor? (the City of Kawartha Lakes is in southern Ontario)

I too am becoming interested in just those very questions. We are beginning to look at them too. Luckily for me there's a dealer in Jacksonville, FL. We stop in while heading to my parents further south, get the trailer, hitch & wiring installed while we wait and then head on.
 
I am seriously considering the purchase of a Unigo and am wondering if the manufacture's quality issues have been addressed both with the trailer and the hitch.
I too like to ride long and far and cannot abide issues of poor quality or issues regarding high speed wobbles.
So the questions I will put forward are 1: have the quality/stability issues been resolved on new Unigos, 2: how much $ do they cost and 3: where is the nearest distributor? (the City of Kawartha Lakes is in southern Ontario)
I can't help with all your Qs. The used UniGo I picked up last year is a 2007 model with no significant quality issues noted. With regard to wobble, I don't notice any until I'm up in the 70+ range. If the trailer is lightly loaded, it gets pretty "hoppy"/wags about pretty easy. The more the load, the more it resists moving around. All in all, not as stable as my previous Bushtec 2-wheel trailer, but the smaller size/footprint of the UniGo is much better suited to my needs at this point in my life, with acceptable handling.
 
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