Atleast the footpeg rubber looks real good.
Atleast the footpeg rubber looks real good.
I'm lost. I've gone to find myself. If I get back before I return. Please ask me to wait.
Any tool if used improperly can be used as a hammer.
He'll also need the brackets that hold the turn signals on, and a set of headlight ears (unless they are already there - I can't tell for sure, but the last conversion I helped with needed them).
Well, we are getting ready to batten down the hatch even up here in North Texas awaiting IKE, whom we don't LIKE! But before the tarp went over the Beast, I got a few things accomplished. Like pulling the plugs, squirtin in some Hillbilly Juice and jankin on the rear wheel and .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..................................it turns over and feels like it has pretty good compression. Definately 25 bicep lbs or more. At least I know I can do a compression test after the Reuben Carter. Also, a couple of pix of the cleaner and gussied up bones.
RENEGADE'S MOJO RIDES AGAIN!!!!!!!
More HZE showed up down low this time...
The baling wire was not enough HZE for the side stand.
Couldn't stand the mess under the MC any more.
It's not permanent so out comes the RattleCanExpressssssss.....hey, I think I may be channeling a Hillbilly!!!
Just tracked down the Starter Motor Relay Connector number and it is Bosch #3334485008. Most of the BMW supply houses don't stock it but do have the harness for $700.00. Cost via ASE Supply(503-288-0100) in Oregon is under $2. Guy that took my order rides a bike and was great to deal with.
Already found the relay at AutoZone so I'm a happy camper. One Hillbilly demon exorcised.......537 more to go...and I think the MOJO is startin ta grin....
Constructive comment: I bet your brake bleeders are still functional.
What'll you take for that baby right now?
IKE is mostly history and the weather is great so the tarp is off again and I needed something to do for the day so it's it's it's ELECTRICS!!!!
But first a little gas draining...
Not too bad and it still smells like gas...so on to the petcocks.
ARGGhHH!!!! What do we find but a wee bit of rust clinging to the screens. I'll have to look down in the tank later. Don't know which petcocks these are, so if anyone has seen them on the side of a milk carton and can ID them, please do.
So, the starter motor relay connector is on order and I thought I try to get a bit of a head start and clean up of the harness. Renegade is held together mostly with bailing wire and electrical tape. Miles and miles and miles of electrical tape. I had been worrying about the size of the red and orange wire at the relay connector and how I was going to find a spade the right size to deal with what looks like 8 or 6 gauge wire.
Then I noticed that both these wires had electrical tape wrapped about them several inches away from the relay but since there was electrical tape wrapped around THAT electrical tape, I could not for the life of me make any sense of Renegade's spinal tap. Time to unwrap the black mummy cord of death.
Mein Gott!! More HZE right before my eyes! That 06 gauge orange wire is connected to 10 gauge red wire for ABSOLUTELY NO GOOD REASON. I thought the 06 gauge might be the correct size and the 10 gauge the imposter but then I unwrapped tweedle dee (the twin brother wire) and found the same thing! The smaller gauge wire snaked it's way into the (I Hope)original harness (w/o electrical tape) so I will assume that 10 gauge is the original. So this solves another mystery as I have read recommendations to just tie the 2 red wires at the relay together behind the relay as that is what the relay does internally anyway. But I could only find one red wire....another Hillbilly mystery solved.
So I removed the offending BIG WIRE and lengthened both remaining wires by twist soldering extensions to them and then using waterproof shrink wrap to finish them off.
Stuck em thru the relay connector to "hold their places" till the connector arrives.
If you don't know by now, I will make it official. I hate bulges under electrical tape. I gotta know what the snake ate if I see any form of deformation, irregularity, or bloating. But what really pi$$es me off about electrical tape is the primordial ooze fest it promotes. It is my belief that in the beginning there was electrical tape..... and it oozed.... and the oceans were filled with sea cucumbers....and I don't like them EITHER! Now there is a bump on the large part of the harness that goes to the positive post on the battery that I've been spying for days. What could it be? My best guess is that there's some Hillbillyness goin on in that there harness and I aims to exorcise it. So I start unwrapping and unwrapping and unwrapping....I unwrap so much that my turntable start spinning backwards! Later that day, I found this?
It's an extension to the original harness termination but the cable is just stuck through the hole and not secured. I really can't imagine why the PO was having electrical problems. He certainly used BIG ENOUGH WIRE!
Last edited by lonelobo; 09-15-2008 at 01:18 AM.
Meanwhile back at the relay I cleaned up a few more wires but am a bit confused. In the picture here you see 2 brown wires coming out of some more of my waterproof shrink wrap that replaced some cracking harness rubber. The 2 solid brown wires are joined (clymer wiring schematic confirms)then enter a connector that is now connecting to a blue wire and then joined to a yellow wire. That yellow wire was connected (soldered) to a lug on the top of the Master Cylinder under the tank. The other wire bundled with the 2 solid brown wires is a brown/blue wire that currently pigtails to a male spade connector that also has another brown/blue wire that connects to a yellow wire that connects to a blue/white (poss. blue/yellow) wire that goes to the starter relay and shares the lug with another blue/white wire (poss. blue/yellow) that heads off to who knows where.
My guess is that this 2nd lug which was unconnected when I got the bike is somehow supposed to go to the Master Cylinder cap, but my cap looks like this:
More HZE and me without a degree in Hillbilly. Can anyone help? The schematic shows that the blue/yellow wire goes to the starter switch and I'm trying to figure out why the starter switch should care to interract with the Master cylinder fluid level switch.
By the way...I am referring to the Page 769 schematic in the Clymer M502-3 manual if that helps anyone out there...it's marginally helpful to me at the moment. Not sure if it's the color blindness, dyslexia, or alzheimers that's the problem. Please advise.
Can't help you there, but popped in to point out that, in cars or bikes, brown is BMWese for 'ground' and, fortunately, very few hillbillies take to buyin' rolls of brown wire down at the Texaco (too close to the color of mud ...). So probably every brown you find is, was, and should be, a ground.
Lonelobo, yes, this bike makes you an airhead.
Of course the two in my garage make me a Squarehead (Airhead squared).
Welcome to the club, good of you to resurect another abused airhead.....Regards, Rod.
Work is the curse of the riding class