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Speed bleeders/brake fluid change?

D

davel

Guest
Looking to put a set of speed bleeders on a 91k100rs with ABS, anyone using these? Also, do I need to bleed the ABS cansiters? Thanks!:dunno
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes, bleed at the canister first, then the calipers. Make sure you push the brake pistons back into the caliper before starting your bleed, and keep the master cylinder cap on loosely when pushing the pistons back in, or else the bleed hole will shoot brake fluid across the garage. Move all of your other cars and bikes away when doing this operation. :)

Also, gently pump up the front master cylinder when you are done. This breed of master cylinder is famous for weeping right after a brake fluid change when the front brake lever is pumped wildly.

I do not use SpeedBleeders myself.
 
jdiaz said:
or else the bleed hole will shoot brake fluid across the garage. Move all of your other cars and bikes away when doing this operation. :)

Mr Diaz, I have never had this squirting problem. maybe you should be a bit gentler.

Bob Malehorn
Ohio
 
davel said:
Looking to put a set of speed bleeders on a 91k100rs with ABS, anyone using these? Also, do I need to bleed the ABS cansiters? Thanks!:dunno

I'm not a big fan of Speed Bleeders for several reasons:

1. Difficulty in telling when all the air is out due to air being pulled in around the threads..

2. The very real possibility Jon mentioned of destroying the master cylinder(s) by allowing the seals to travel into previously untravelled cylinder territory.

So what do I use?

A home-made power bleeder.. this is a pressurized container, with a fitting for the master cylinder(s) that pushes fresh brake fluid through the system.

It's not only superior for the 2 reasons I won't use SpeedBleeders for - but also a few other reasons:

1. It can move fluid in a continuous stream with some velocity. This has the effect of making it lots easier to get all the air out - especially with the more complex plumbing of the ABS systems..

2. It continually refills the master cylinder reservoir - avoiding the "Oh S*it" moment when the reservoir runs dry while doing it by hand - requiring you to start all over again

3. If the cap fittings are designed correctly - it automatically sets the reservoir level as you remove it.

So - how to build it?

http://www.apexcone.com/JimPowellHomepage/Bleeder/bleeder.html

You will have to glom (tech term) some old reservior caps (being friends with a dealers shop manager is sometimes a good thing - these just go in the trash usually when the master cylinder is replaced..), and you'll have to visit a big-box store like Home-Depot for the sprayer and the plumbing bits needed.

Total cost to build one - about $10-11 not including the reservoir caps.

Only downsides?

1. People will want to borrow it

2. You do have to clean it up when done (not a difficult job, basically just drain and wipe it up)

3. You should use a fresh quart of brake fluid in it - and then throw the remainder away (but that's true of any opened brake fluid)

I built one when I added ABS to the FYK100RT.. and haven't looked back. I have one cap that fits all my automobiles also - and believe it or not - they should get semi-annual brake fluid flushes also. The power bleeder makes it a 10 minute job (don't even have to jack the cars up..)

The bike gets done once a year since the brakes are very critical and are more exposed than on a car..
 
BouncinBob said:
Mr Diaz, I have never had this squirting problem. maybe you should be a bit gentler.
You need to move a greater number of cars and bikes around the motorcycle being serviced in order to get the full effect! Try it! :)
 
Thanks guys! Very useful information. I used the pressurized container method on cars before and it made the job so easy. Didn't know that one was available with a cap that fits the master cylinder. I will take a look at that web site and hopefully I can build my own.:clap
 
I may have spoken to soon, the cap...

in the picture is a round screw-on type, and mine 91Krs is rectangular. Can I just purchase the rectangular type tap it with the fitting in the picture and accomplish the same? :confused:
 
Re: I may have spoken to soon, the cap...

davel said:
in the picture is a round screw-on type, and mine 91Krs is rectangular. Can I just purchase the rectangular type tap it with the fitting in the picture and accomplish the same? :confused:

Davel..

If you re-read the posting I made - you'll notice I suggested asking your friendly local dealer for a cap off a bad master cylinder. They do see these often enough, and they do just chuck them in the trash when they're replaced. Cost should be nothing.

You'll then have to be a tad creative with some plumbing bits from HomeDepot (or big-box store of choice) and a drill to make your own bleeder cap.

It took me about 15 minutes to make one. If I have a chance I'll take a digi-pic of it and toss it up here..

Oh - you do NOT want to tap the cap. The fittings must be a male-female straight threaded fitting, and you make the hole in the cap and the rubber bellows/seal just big enough for the threaded male section to fit through. I then used some flat rubber rings for additional sealing.

If you just tapped the cap - and screwed it in - you would have a very nice mess of brake fluid spraying out all over the place.

If you are uncomfortable doing this type of work - I'd suggest letting a dealer handle it for you.
 
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