Aux fuse panel for F650GS

Hello from the North Pole,

We're up to 5 1/2 hours of daylight and we've gone though -46 degrees already so we're warming up. Naturally, I'm thinking about my bike. I want to improve the wiring rat's nest I have right now. I have wired in a few things and right now have all the extra harness wire tucked in front of the battery. I've managed to bundle it all up so it fits nicely but it would be a little difficult to troubleshoot a problem on a trip and impossible to add anything in the future. I'd like to add an aux fuse panel or use a european style terminal strip to relocate all of the connections under the seat for easy access. The one concern I have is having it so close to the fuel manifold. Has anyone else tried this or have different idea?

Not on a FGS, but the bluesea's fuze boxes are nice. Have a cover to protect them, and 6 fuses.

http://bluesea.com/

Earl

Thanks for the idea. There is not a lot of vertical space under my seat. How thick is that box?

A little over an inch and a half...

Yellowjacket said:

Thanks for the idea. There is not a lot of vertical space under my seat. How thick is that box?

Click to expand...

I think this looks like a pretty decent cable management solution as well, once I get the funding to purchase all the electronic goodies I'd like...

From Blue Sea's website:

Not available yet, but coming soon to a bike near you:
http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

Provides switched AND unswitched circuits!

Not affiliated, the usual disclaimers...

Auxillary Fuse Panel on F650

Over on the F650 site (www.f650.com) I posted pictures of a farkle where I built a switched fuse panel that's housed in the tail section.

Tim in Burien, WA

wmubrown said:

Not available yet, but coming soon to a bike near you:
http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

Provides switched AND unswitched circuits!

Click to expand...

The Centech AP-2 is available and provides switched and unswitched circuits. It also takes stripped wires directly so you don't need crimps (one more thing to fail).

Where's it at?

Hi Tim,

Thanks for the idea. I went to the Chaingang website but couldn't find it. What heading is it under?

tommcgee said:

The Centech AP-2 is available and provides switched and unswitched circuits. It also takes stripped wires directly so you don't need crimps (one more thing to fail).

Click to expand...

Can you clarify what you mean by crimps on the fuzeblocks solution?

It's got the same style bus as the Centech so you can just insert your stripped wires into the power and ground bus, tighten a screw, and walla, all connected.

Hotspice said:

Can you clarify what you mean by crimps on the fuzeblocks solution?

Click to expand...

Misunderstanding. I was referring to fuseblocks that are happier with crimped terminals on your wires, like the Blueseas that was pictured in an earlier post. I prefer the stripped wire choice.

Fits Perfectly

Thanks Earl and Tim,

I bought one of those BlueSeas boxes and it fits perfectly in the tail compartment. I installed a bracket and used velcro to keep it from rattling around. When I get it all wired in, I'll post a picture and a diagram of the connections.

Rikki

Centech

I mounted a Centech accessory fuse block and relay under the seat on my 07 F650GS. I hvae used Centechs on several other motorcycles and like them because they are easy to use and have positive ties. There is plenty of room to put one under the seat and the wire to the tail light is readily available for the relay to tie in to it.
1downfourup

Has anyone seen Spring?

For all of you patiently waiting to see what this modification looks like, please hang on a little while longer. Spring is having a hard time finding Alaska this year so I'm working on it between snow storms. This weekend is suppose to be nice and I'll try to take advantage of it as much as I can.

Its alive!

First, I would like to thank all of the folks who gave me suggestions. All of them combined gave me the idea for this fix to my problem. Winter finally released it's grip and spring has come to the interior of Alaska so I was able to finish this. Here's what I did.

Using the wiring diagrams, I ignored the German words (since I can't read them anyway) and managed to find the switched power wire coming off the ignition switch. You can see it in the first picture. Its the green wire with the white stripe. Its located under the black plastic cover just in front of the battery. I used a wire tap to create the positive "+" wire (red) for the aux fuse panel and ran a black wire from the negative battery post to create the "-" wire. I passed both of the wires down through the frame on the right side and followed the existing wiring across the bike to the tail compartment. There is a channel already there to pass all your wires into that compartment. I decided to use the BlueSeas fuse panel which fit perfectly in there. Initially, I had it sitting on a bracket but later removed the bracket because it made it too difficult to get in and out. Instead, I just padded the compartment and it seems to be just fine. I ran all of the accessories to the tail the same way and bundled all of the wire together to make a "J" harness to give me enough slack to lift the panel out of the way to release the seat. Again, check out the pictures. (I hope they make it or all of this will seem pretty silly) In the end, each accessory had it's own circuit and it's own fuse. It can't get much simpler than that and now I don't have to depanel my bike if, for some reason, I have an electrical problem half way to Prudhoe Bay. Oh! I almost for got to mention the extra white wire on the "+" terminal. My PIAA 510 lights have a relay that is controlled by a switched power wire. Since the entire panel is switched, I decided to make it think it was on the original wire harness and tied it into the first place to get power. I then made the positive and negative connections to the fuse panel as usual to power the lights. I hope this has been helpful to a few of you. The idea can be applied to any bike. Please let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to help. Thanks again everyone.

OK, I'm having some difficulty attaching the pictures. I have them scaled properly. All four of them are 67-90Kb and are 800x600 but it seems to lock up when I try to attach them. I'll continue to try another time

Let's try again

Ok, I reset the keyboard actuator and I think it will work this time. The green wire with the white stripe can be seen in the middle of the picture. In the other pictures I've show the panel installed, removed to gain access to the seat release, and with the cover off to show the connections. Again, I hope this will be helpful to a few of you. I know I'm liking it quite a bit!

Panel installed

This is the panel installed. As I mentioned earlier, I decided just to pad the compartment since it made it easier to get the panel back out.

Panel out

The picture shows how I built the "J" harness. This gives me the slack to get the panel out of the way.

The panel exposed

This last picture shows the panel without the cover to show the connections. As I mentioned earlier, the second (white) wire on the "+" terminal is the "switched" wire for my PIAA 510 lights. I put the wire here just to help it make sense. If you tap the power from the green wire with the white stripe, that makes the entire panel "switched" and it really doesn't make a difference where you connect it to get power.