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R1200R - Paint quality

FredRydr

Danger: Keep Back 500 Ft
After 66,000 miles, I moved my Marsee tankbag from my black R1150R to my black R1200R, and rode the new R for 300 miles. I removed the tankbag and it had marred the R1200R's paint. Wax/polish and elbow grease removed the marks, but it still surprised me. I called the body shop that does repairs and paint for the BMW shop (and high-end Euro cars including BMWs); the owner rides new and restored Beemers. I asked if the new BMW paint was somehow softer, water-based, etc., but he was as surprised as I am. He suggested I ask around to see if anyone else is having the problem before I put another clearcoat on the tank.

Has anyone noticed anything like this? With black or any other color?

Meanwhile, the Marsee tankbag was washed thoroughly and is hanging out to dry. I'd buy a new one, but the BMW bag is too tall for my tastes, and low tankbags (i.e., four inches high or so) with large map windows seem to be out of style in the aftermarket, too.

Fred
 
I have noticed on my RT that the knee area scratched rather easily. I'm kind of suprised at this since BMW should be well aware how the bikes are ridden.

I have applied some 3M protection film to keep it from getting worse. It seems to work very well and is barely noticable. And you can and should apply wax or something to seal and protect the film as well.
 
I have applied some 3M protection film to keep it from getting worse.
Tell me about this stuff. How does it conform to compound curves? I am not an artist with scissors, either.

I did some googling and found this. Luckily, there is a professional installer three miles from me.

Fred
 
this thread reminds me how amazed i am that the paint on my r1150r under the tank bag looks as good as it does.
 
Tell me about this stuff. How does it conform to compound curves? I am not an artist with scissors, either.

Fred

It's excellent at protection but a bear to install on compound surfaces, a little heat helps. On relatively flat surfaces its much easier to install. You don't need to be an artist (I'm far from it) just understand how to cover a surface much like wallpaper. I'm terrible at that too. Tracing paper can help for making a template on complex applications.

As mentioned they recommend waxing after install. I prefer to use petroleum based products. A popular one is called Rejex and is compatible with the 3M film.

You can buy the 3M film in bulk from here - http://www.xpel.com/ They also make kits but for $250 for the RT I passed and bought bulk. Besides the kit may not have the pieces you want.

I believe an order over $50 will get you the tool and rag. The tool is a big help.

Let me know if you need any more info or help.
 
Actually - Rejex isn't oil based. It's a polymer based coating - similar to other plastic type coatings. I was going to suggest it.

Good stuff. I have my old R1150RS tankbag on the R1200R - and I've been watching for any signs of paint marring - haven't seen anything yet, and thats about 8 weeks and 4,000 miles of use.

One thing I did do when I got the bike was to immediately give it multiple coats of Rejex. It's a product with very poor instructions - but most of the polymer based products work the same way.. I have quite a collection of them for my BMW cars..

You have to allow 24 hours (unless you use an accelerator like Zaino has) between coats for the polymer to cure. Repeated coats in too short a time will only dissolve the coating you just put on. Multiple coats will last longer and protect better - the coating does actually get thicker as you put on the coats (provided you give them time to cure.)

Some people claim they get better results by allowing the product to dry for 24 hours before even buffing the haze off. I have tried this on faceshields - and it seems they might be on to something.

FWIW - the Cee-Bailey windscreens come with a small bottle of plastic cleaner/protector - which from smell and consistancy (color etc) appears to be rebottled Rejex. Rejex was originally made for aircraft windshields - to help protect them and to provide a surface slick enough that bug splats wash off easily. It certainly does do that on windshields and faceshields.. works wonderfully well. It also works well on the other plasics on the bike - I do my saddlebags with it - it doesn't leave any white film behind, and leaves a nice looking luster.

Good stuff. Zaino also makes products that work the same way, as do several other high-end car finish manufacturers. Don't confuse them with solvent based waxes (ie - petroleum based) - they're a different sort of thing entirely.

Oh - it also works well on your wheels to help make brake dust easy to clean off. If you build up a good layer of it - the dust will easily wash right off - or even dust off with a dry rag. I've got about 3 coats on my rims, and gotta do a few more. It worked well on my M3 rims - which have dust problems like the bikes.

Best,
 
... 3M film in bulk...I believe an order over $50 will get you the tool and rag....
I ran the 3M film through Google, discovered a professional installer three miles from me, and had him do the job for $60. I'm glad I did, because he said the tighter radius curves on motorcycles are harder than the wider radius on cars. Has a machine that cuts the pieces from either a database of vehicles (the R1200GS is in there, but not the R1200R) or custom dimensions. He tried to install one piece, and had to cut a second to get it right. I had him install between the top stripes (white hides the edge better) until the film drops down in front of the seat to protect from the tankbag's rear straps and from me.

Looks great. Time will tell.

Fred
'07 R
 
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My Wunderlich tank bag scuffed the hell out of my paint on the top of my tank on the GS. I complained to the Manager at Santa Cruz BMW and he said dirt gets caught in there and it scuffs it. Bulls#it!! The tank bag on my K75S never did that. The map pocket alone from the Wunderlich scuffed my tank too. I say the finish on these new bikes is not that strong. I'm going to try and get it replaced under warranty.
 
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