I have seen an ad for bar backs that move the bars up and back. It says that non ABS needs a longer brake hose. I have ABS, do I need to change the hose, or will they work? The forward position of the S gets a little uncomfortable after to many hours. I know, I've heard about turning every thing into a /5 with a Windjammer. Thank you; Brett
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Bar backs for K75S
- Thread starter bmwrebel
- Start date
kbasa
Well-known member
If you look, the line that runs from the master cylinder to the junction at the steering head doesn't really have any slack in it, so if you move the bars, you'll need to replace it.
Lots of folks have had good success by using K75C bars on their S, so you could probably use the C brake line as well.
Lots of folks have had good success by using K75C bars on their S, so you could probably use the C brake line as well.
knary
looking for a coal mine
bmwrebel said:
What Kbasa said. C-bars work *very* well. Not only are they back an inch or more, they're wider than the S-bar - thus giving you greater leverage. After I installed them on my S, the bike seemed to handle better.
What you actually want, if you go this route, are the K100 Euro Standard bars. Vitually identical to the C-bars, they're around $60 or so. The only real difficulty is fitting the old crash pad.
Ted Verrill has a nice article describing the installation - click here
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
Re: Re: Bar backs for K75S
I'll add to what Scott sez:
You can use the stock brake line on ABS equipped bikes with C bars (BTDT). I'd much prefer the C bars to barbacks since the barbacks are fugly.. and the barbacks will set your switch pad WAY back where it won't meet with the bit on the front of the forks. Fugly.
And to see C bars on an S, you can go to:
http://www.eilenberger.net - and browse around the K75S section.. there is a section on the C bars.
If you don't have heated grips - it's a real no brainer. If you have heated grips - it's a bit more complex since you have to disconnect (under the tank) the heated grip wiring, then fish it out of the old bars and into the new bars.
No heated grips - mebbe 1/2 hour job. Heated grips - make it an extra hour at least.
The other alternative (which I may try) is Helibars.. http://www.helibars.com - which allow almost unlimited adjustability and look cool to boot. Only problem is cost - about $300, and I've got to check with a friend on how easy it might be to fish the heated grip wiring into them (may have to drill the hole for the left heated grip also..)
I find the stock S bars were a tad short and the angle was wrong for me - I got pain in the heal of my palm. The C bars are back further and the angle is better - but still not ideal. I liked the stock bars at speed (60MPH and up) since they put you in a position where the wind coming at you resulted in no weight on your hands. The C bars put you more upright, and the wind effect isn't as noticeable - but they are much better for around town and slower riding.
Unlike Scott - I preferred the handling of the bike with the short stock bars.. (and there were two lengths of the stock bars - they got 2" longer in 1988..) It seemed to turn in faster with the more forward position and shorter bars - but that could be just me. I'm short..
Best,
knary said:What Kbasa said. C-bars work *very* well. Not only are they back an inch or more, they're wider than the S-bar - thus giving you greater leverage. After I installed them on my S, the bike seemed to handle better.
What you actually want, if you go this route, are the K100 Euro Standard bars. Vitually identical to the C-bars, they're around $60 or so. The only real difficulty is fitting the old crash pad.
Ted Verrill has a nice article describing the installation - click here
I'll add to what Scott sez:
You can use the stock brake line on ABS equipped bikes with C bars (BTDT). I'd much prefer the C bars to barbacks since the barbacks are fugly.. and the barbacks will set your switch pad WAY back where it won't meet with the bit on the front of the forks. Fugly.
And to see C bars on an S, you can go to:
http://www.eilenberger.net - and browse around the K75S section.. there is a section on the C bars.
If you don't have heated grips - it's a real no brainer. If you have heated grips - it's a bit more complex since you have to disconnect (under the tank) the heated grip wiring, then fish it out of the old bars and into the new bars.
No heated grips - mebbe 1/2 hour job. Heated grips - make it an extra hour at least.
The other alternative (which I may try) is Helibars.. http://www.helibars.com - which allow almost unlimited adjustability and look cool to boot. Only problem is cost - about $300, and I've got to check with a friend on how easy it might be to fish the heated grip wiring into them (may have to drill the hole for the left heated grip also..)
I find the stock S bars were a tad short and the angle was wrong for me - I got pain in the heal of my palm. The C bars are back further and the angle is better - but still not ideal. I liked the stock bars at speed (60MPH and up) since they put you in a position where the wind coming at you resulted in no weight on your hands. The C bars put you more upright, and the wind effect isn't as noticeable - but they are much better for around town and slower riding.
Unlike Scott - I preferred the handling of the bike with the short stock bars.. (and there were two lengths of the stock bars - they got 2" longer in 1988..) It seemed to turn in faster with the more forward position and shorter bars - but that could be just me. I'm short..
Best,
