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german high bars r1100s
- Thread starter RIDE4YOU
- Start date
RIDE4YOU
New member
hey dave hows it going?do the bars come back twords you alittle ?im sure they come up as well but how much?356.00 american dollars so i assume they are factory with the price.just listed my shopping list in a reply to"buying a 1100s"post above this one .i did order the lower pegs i think i heard you mention you had them as well.any tips would be appriciated.thanks wayne
kbasa
Well-known member
Here's how they look from the side. They're a good inch and a half higher than the low ones.
This is a little blurry and I'm too lazy to go back out there.
When you swap the bars out, you need to take the circlip off the top of the leg stanchions. You can see it on the top of the legs. You'll also need to take the bodywork off and slide the tank back so you can get at the heated grip connectors.
The heated grips will plug into a gang connector like this one. You'll need to pop the leads out of the connector so you can get the wire back up through the ends of the bars.
Use a paper clip to release the wires. Pull easily on them, they're tiny.
The grips have screws hidden on them. They're not glued to the bars. You unscrew them and slide them off the left side. If you're careful, you can slide the throttle side off with the cluster.
This is a little blurry and I'm too lazy to go back out there.
When you swap the bars out, you need to take the circlip off the top of the leg stanchions. You can see it on the top of the legs. You'll also need to take the bodywork off and slide the tank back so you can get at the heated grip connectors.
The heated grips will plug into a gang connector like this one. You'll need to pop the leads out of the connector so you can get the wire back up through the ends of the bars.
Use a paper clip to release the wires. Pull easily on them, they're tiny.
The grips have screws hidden on them. They're not glued to the bars. You unscrew them and slide them off the left side. If you're careful, you can slide the throttle side off with the cluster.
kbasa
Well-known member
The switchgear is the same as the stuff here and it comes apart into two pieces. There's a screw hiding in the hole where the mirrors would go, along with a couple underneath. I think there's two philips screws on teh bottom, underneath the cover. The clusters have about a million little screws.
There's an allen head screw that clamps the cluster to the bar. If you take the bolt all the way out, a nut will fall out of the cluster. Be ready to catch it. It lives in a little slot and is captured by the housing.
Careful with the wires.
Throttle side:
More pictures here:
There's an allen head screw that clamps the cluster to the bar. If you take the bolt all the way out, a nut will fall out of the cluster. Be ready to catch it. It lives in a little slot and is captured by the housing.
Careful with the wires.
Throttle side:
More pictures here:
RIDE4YOU
New member
YOU THE MAN
what a slide show thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i didn"t relize how much was involved.i feel more confident after all your help and time you spent taking pictures.it doesn't look like a 5 minute job huh? again i appreciate your help.i hope the lower foot peg job is easyer !i will let you know how it goes if they ever come in.thanks again Wayne@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ps if you have any heating or air conditioning problems maybe i can return the favor!
what a slide show thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i didn"t relize how much was involved.i feel more confident after all your help and time you spent taking pictures.it doesn't look like a 5 minute job huh? again i appreciate your help.i hope the lower foot peg job is easyer !i will let you know how it goes if they ever come in.thanks again Wayne@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ps if you have any heating or air conditioning problems maybe i can return the favor!
RIDE4YOU
New member
suburban machine
hey dave howsit.i just got my bars in but something doesnt look right.the have no holes to run wires for heated grips however they did send wire ties.i did order suburban peg kit,but have not received them yet. i will study your pictures more to see what steps to follow.dont take your pegs off your bike to make pictures f or me!!!!!!!however if you already have them that would be great.thanks for the help wayne/
hey dave howsit.i just got my bars in but something doesnt look right.the have no holes to run wires for heated grips however they did send wire ties.i did order suburban peg kit,but have not received them yet. i will study your pictures more to see what steps to follow.dont take your pegs off your bike to make pictures f or me!!!!!!!however if you already have them that would be great.thanks for the help wayne/
kbasa
Well-known member
Re: suburban machine
Do they have a hole on the underside somewhere that allows the wires to come out? They have the notches on the ends of the bars, right?
I'll just take pictures of the SM lowering kit. You have to relocate the master cylinder and the diagram they give you isn't real clear.
airbiz said:
Do they have a hole on the underside somewhere that allows the wires to come out? They have the notches on the ends of the bars, right?
I'll just take pictures of the SM lowering kit. You have to relocate the master cylinder and the diagram they give you isn't real clear.
kbasa
Well-known member
The installation pictures were of an R1150R, but the switch gear is the same.
You will need to slide the tank back to get to the connector. The bodywork has screws under the seat, along the top of the turn signal housing and in two diabolical locations underneat.
One is basically on the back of the roundel or so. It's down there a ways, underneath. You can reach it from the front wheel opening. The others are on the front edge, where the side panels join the center part of the fairing (the part that holds the headlight). If you can't find them, let me know. The tank is held on with a big bolt on the side, just undo the bolt (can't remember if it's on both sides) and slide the tank back.
You will need to slide the tank back to get to the connector. The bodywork has screws under the seat, along the top of the turn signal housing and in two diabolical locations underneat.
One is basically on the back of the roundel or so. It's down there a ways, underneath. You can reach it from the front wheel opening. The others are on the front edge, where the side panels join the center part of the fairing (the part that holds the headlight). If you can't find them, let me know. The tank is held on with a big bolt on the side, just undo the bolt (can't remember if it's on both sides) and slide the tank back.
