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Thread: R1200RT Oil Change ??

  1. #1
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    Question R1200RT Oil Change ??

    Tomorrow I am doing the 6000 mile oil and filter change . MAX BMW is going to do the valves and throttle bodies . I hope by 12,000 miles I will be doing my own valves and TB . Is there any advice/ tricks for draining the oil ? I know checking it and getting a good reading takes some time. How long should the oil drain for ?? I am using BMW filter and 20w50 Castrol .
    Mike

  2. #2
    Focused kbasa's Avatar
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    Ride your bike around for 10 minutes or so.

    Put it on the centerstand and open the oil pan drain. Let it drain until it's got just a teeny, tiny little thread of oil coming out or it's just dribbling a drop now and again.

    Put the plug back in and move the drain pan over to the oil filter. Remove the old oil filter, making sure you get the rubber gasket that goes between the filter and the case. It usually comes out attached to the filter, but sometimes it doesn't.

    Fill the filter with oil and install it. Just snug it up tightly, you don't have to kill it. I usually spin it on so it's hand tight and then use the filter wrench to give it another quarter turn. Before you put the filter on, run a bit of oil on the edge of the rubber gasket. It'll seal nicely that way. Just put your finger in the drain pan and run a little around the seal.

    Fill the bike with oil - watching the oil window as you fill it.

    Ride it around for a bit, then park it on the sidestand for a bit. Put it up on the centerstand and check the oil level again. Add oil if necessary.

    In my experience, you don't need to do much to the TBs on the hexheads. Adjusting the valves is easy and I think Jim von Baden put up a nice post about how to do so. If you can't find it, PM him.

    When I've adjusted the valves on my hexheads, the intakes haven't changed at all, but the exhaust valves have been just the slightest bit tight.
    Dave Swider
    Marin County, CA

    Some bikes. Some with motors, some without.

  3. #3
    brez DMR's Avatar
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    Plug and filter torque

    I was told by a mechanic the proper torque for the plug was 25 ft/lbs and for the filter 8. It seems to be ok.

  4. #4
    Retired and proud of it MOTORMAN's Avatar
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    Keep in mind, once the engine is broken in they will usually stabilize at a certain oil level in the crankcase. It may not be at the full mark but as long as it is not below the add mark don't sweat it. If you have to keep adding oil just to bring it up to the full mark after just about 100 miles or so, check to see if it will stay at the same level if you leave it alone. Some engines will just blow or throw out the top pint or whatever of oil until the level gets to the point where it's comfortable then it will stay the same for quite some time. Just don't let it get below the add mark.

  5. #5
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    Oil change completed ...all went well .... I have been changing oil, my own, on cars , trucks and motorcycles for 40 years . I have found out that there can be a difference with different engines . This BMW boxer is a new deal for me ...
    Thanks for your held.
    Mike

  6. #6
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    Oil change completed ...all went well .... I have been changing oil, my own, on cars , trucks and motorcycles for 40 years . I have found out that there can be a difference with different engines . This BMW boxer is a new deal for me ...
    Thanks for your help .
    Mike

  7. #7
    Looking for Stella ! westmount's Avatar
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    I would add more more thing to do before you drain your oil on your RT.

    I would put it on the side stand for a few minutes before putting it on the center stand. It helps get the oil down to the bottom of the pan for diffent nooks and crannies...

  8. #8
    rangerreece rangerreece's Avatar
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    Knowledge is power

    I know this is an old thread, but unlike our "youngens" on kiowapilots.com I actually do research before asking questions. I've recently purchased a BMW R1200RT (2005) and I am a NAZI when it comes to specs, proper maintenance, proper training, (I'm an Army Helicopter Pilot by trade you can see the need for precision)...
    well you will be glad to know that I'm a BMW MOA member and forum member and I was looking for the torque settings for the filter and plug on my R1200RT and couldn't find them anywhere on the internet but my google search landed me right back here to forums, boosting my confidence quite a bit on the integrity of this site as a resource.
    cheers.
    reece

  9. #9
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    You have to ride the bike around enough to get the thermostat on the oil radiators open and circulating. The oil can cool down to 100 degrees and still drain good. If it is above 145 degrees you can get burn't.

    Always have the oil filler cap off before you pull the drain plug. It will cause the oil to flow freely in a steady stream, no more mess when it surges coming out.

    Be careful with the BMW oil, at $19.35 a quart you don't want to spill any.

  10. #10
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Moving this thread to Hexheads..
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  11. #11
    bob1100rtc
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    I can tell you one thing for shure. I won't be using any $19 oil ! Got a gallon of Castrol 20-50 V-twin for something like $13-$14 last oil change.

  12. #12
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob1100RTC View Post
    I can tell you one thing for shure. I won't be using any $19 oil ! Got a gallon of Castrol 20-50 V-twin for something like $13-$14 last oil change.
    I had the same thought yesterday when I bought 4 quarts of oil to do my next oil change.. but before using a brand other than BMW's oil, I want to be absolutely certain that the oil I use meets the requirements BMW has for oil in my engine so there can't be any warranty problem down the road.

    Dunno about the Castrol oil - it might be just fine. Check it to see if the approvals are SG-SH (and NOT SJ/SL or higher..) That's what BMW wants in their engines due to the increased extreme pressure additives used in the earlier rated oils.

    BTW - since I'm not sure if the Castrol is a dino oil or synthetic) - BMW sells a non-synthetic at 1/2 the price of the synthetic stuff. Was $9.95/quart as of yesterday at the dealership. That is an approved oil for hexhead engines.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  13. #13
    bob1100rtc
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    The Castrol was sg-sh rated and was dino oil. I only have 5000 or so miles on this bike. I will probably go to synthetic at 15000 or so. I got it at Pepboys and I used a BMW filter. About $30 for both oil and filter.

  14. #14
    K Bikes Complex by Choice cjack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob1100RTC View Post
    I can tell you one thing for shure. I won't be using any $19 oil ! Got a gallon of Castrol 20-50 V-twin for something like $13-$14 last oil change.
    BMW has reduced the price of their BMW synthetic oil, 15W50, to $12.83/ qt MSRP as of 11/8/08.
    BMWMotorcycles, fun when they're running...
    My other bike is a BMW.
    Jack Hawley MOA and RA #224, KE9UW ("Chuck")

  15. #15
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjack View Post
    BMW has reduced the price of their BMW synthetic oil, 15W50, to $12.83/ qt MSRP as of 11/8/08.
    So Jack, think I can return the $20/quart stuff and buy the $12.83/quart stuff?
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

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