• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

High Frequency Vibration

Motor unit 7

Fire Don't Burn
It would seem that I have a high speed 70 mph high, frequency vibration in my 2004 R1150 RT-P with 120,000 miles on it. The tires are new and I have micro beads for balancing which I have used before with on problems, the rims are also good.

I replaced the front wheel bearings as I thought that was the problem. as it seemed to only be felt from the handle bars, but with that replaced it does seem to be the rear where it is.

I now think that it could be the bearings in the final drive starting to go any one else have any ideas on this? drive shaft, splines, ETC.
 
I would personally start with balancing the wheels/tires. Then I would move on to less likely culprits if that failed.

Next suspect would be the universal joints in the driveshaft.
 
Fwiw

I had similar on my 2000 RT and after a couple weeks in the shop, lots of looking at various components, different guys riding it, nothing. Put in a dose of Techron and it's been fine ever since.

Hope it's as EZ for you

PS Seafoam seemed to have no noticeable effect whatsoever
 
vibration

Thanks Paul and 26667

I think I will try the tire balancing sounds like there could be a problem with the Micro bead installation as the shop had not done it before and they could have lost some of them instead of them going in the tire.

That would do the trick and give the type of vibration I am getting, did not have the problem before the tires were put on, but also I was running at a slower speed for a fair while before getting up to the higher highway speeds.

I have to say that I have had Micro Beads on three bikes and never had this before, in fact I have had a superior ride with them but they would not work right if the right amount was not put in just like if there was too much or to little weights on the tire.
 
Hopefully it is something simple like that. As a note, you can check the rear end pretty easily. Put it on the centerstand and spin the rear wheel by hand. It should spin smoothly. If it's "grindy" your big bearing may be going bad. If it's "notchy" one of th u-joints in the driveshaft may be going bad.

That being said, I would be looking for a used driveshaft (new if you can spare $700) for that bike. There have been several instances of driveshafts letting go at around 100K miles on those bikes. It can be pretty spectacular, so you'd like to avoid it if possible.
 
Vibration

I realize this is an older thread, but I wanted to re-open the issue on drive shaft orientation and balance.

I just replaced the entire clutch assembly on a '96 R1100GS with 115,000 miles. The bike ran silk smooth prior to the work. I remember being very careful to orient the clutch components and the "flywheel". However, I failed to orient the drive shaft. It simply slipped my attention.

Now, I am experiencing the "70 MPH" buzz in the feet and hands. Wheels and tires do not seem to be the problem.

Could someone remind me the proper "orientation" of the shaft and the U-joints?
 
I realize this is an older thread, but I wanted to re-open the issue on drive shaft orientation and balance.

I just replaced the entire clutch assembly on a '96 R1100GS with 115,000 miles. The bike ran silk smooth prior to the work. I remember being very careful to orient the clutch components and the "flywheel". However, I failed to orient the drive shaft. It simply slipped my attention.

Now, I am experiencing the "70 MPH" buzz in the feet and hands. Wheels and tires do not seem to be the problem.

Could someone remind me the proper "orientation" of the shaft and the U-joints?

The yokes need to be lined up.
shaftends.jpg
 
Here's a photo of a BMW drive shaft correctly phased

Courtesy of StepToe over on the ADV site:
driveshaft.jpg

Paul Glaves posted a great image of correct vs. incorrect drive shaft phasing but I cannot seem to search my way there this morning. Need to bone up on site googling again.
 
Thanks, Wanderer. Pictures from the rebuild show that I did it correctly. Whew!

However, the vibration exists. I'll have to continue the search for cause.
 
Thanks, Wanderer. Pictures from the rebuild show that I did it correctly. Whew!

However, the vibration exists. I'll have to continue the search for cause.

If the engine is running smoothly as Paul mentioned above it's best to start with the tires and wheels and work from there.

I once had a hard to trace vibration at speed problem years ago that caused similar symptoms and it turned out to be belts in the tire separating inside the tire. But that is about as rare as can be.
 
Back
Top