'93 K75S Inspection and Initial Maintenance

[TechPoet]

Howdy,

This week I got a 20 year old bike (K75S) with around 110k miles for a (time will tell) good price. I took a risk in not getting a mechanical inspection. I have a few concerns with it which I'll save for other posts. I would like to ask the community for help in creating a list of inspection points and then initial maintenance procedures.

Hopefully this will be comprehensive enough to serve in the K-bikes-DIY-Tech-Library.

Pre-purchase Inspection Points (PrePIP)
What to listen, smell, look, feel for in the K

Post-purchase Maintenance Steps (PostPMS)
What to do to set the ground for it. This is my ride now, I want my own confidence in the fluids, etc.

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I've started to compile ideas from various threads and other forums and page on the interweb but wanted to get more experienced direction.
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[timtyler]

Get a Clymer Guide for your bike.

Lots of reading at http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml and http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=370.0 and http://www.verrill.com/moto/newkbike.shtml

Good luck with the bike!

 

[kkeller149854]

Welcome to the wonderful world of K-Bikes! I agree with your thinking, start by changing the fluids from final drive to front brakes. I did that with my K75RT that had been sitting for a couple years and it was a wise decision.

 

[cy7878]

Hi,

I just picked up a 85 K100RS last registered in 1999. It rode fine and I was able to ride it home to San Diego from Pomona.
I did:

1. change the tires. The old ones were 16 and 18 years old wearing 3 digit date codes. I didn't feel it would be safe.
2. changed fork oil
3. changed engine oil and filter
4. coolant change
5. got new brake pads (waiting to be installed)
6. flushed the brake lines
7. charged the battery
8. changed the tank gasket
9. changed air filter
10. will be changing the transmission and final drive oil
11. will be lubing the splines -- waiting for my order of Wurth 3000 to show up hopefully today
12. will replace a leaking cluth bell rubber seal when the transmission is pulled
13. should probably replace the fuel filter (although my local dealer told me the part is not available and ended up selling me the fuel pump strainer instead....)
14. Was told by dealer to flush the tank, but I looked inside mine and I have to say, the aluminum tank is spotless. YMMV
15. checked the rubber hoses, all felt okay. I think I'll just keep an eye on them
16. will replace the plugs
17. debating about checking valve clearnace..... I hate/fear leaking and fiddling with gaskets
18. debating about changing the fork springs and rear shock. I think I'll ride awhile to see. The dealer told me that if I'm looking for a firmer ride to not bother. Bikes from the 80's will never have the crispness of the bikes made today.

19. will check clutch and seals while I'm in there as per Don's rec.


anything else, I would also appreciate some input.

 

[timtyler]

Hi,
13. should probably replace the fuel filter (although my local dealer told me the part is not available and ended up selling me the fuel pump strainer instead....)

Other options here.

I buy the MAHLE Original KL 145 Fuel Filter.

 

[cy7878]

Other options here.

I buy the MAHLE Original KL 145 Fuel Filter.

Nice. Thank you very much for the link.

 

[35634]

Introduce yourself over at www.motobrick.com They're more focused on old bricks & have lots of helpful expertise.

 

[98lee]

13. should probably replace the fuel filter (although my local dealer told me the part is not available and ended up selling me the fuel pump strainer instead....)
.

Your dealer parts guy is either lazy or not very skilled:


16 14 2 325 859 FUEL FILTER $35.22

 

[lee]

17. debating about checking valve clearnace..... I hate/fear leaking and fiddling with gaskets

Don't be afraid of this job, checking the valves on a brick engine is easy. I've done it and I'm not much of a mechanic.
In the rare case that the valves need adjustment, this is also very easy.
Gasket is not a problem because it's rubber. Just make sure it's clean and the engine cases are clean and you're good to go. If it does happen to leak, it will probably leak right away and then it's only a couple minute job to remove the cover again.
My first BMW was an airhead and I found the brick engine much easier to check valve clearances on, and the great thing about a brick is it rarely needs an adjustment.

 

[lee]

Your dealer parts guy is either lazy or not very skilled:


16 14 2 325 859 FUEL FILTER $35.22

I agree. I thought all the K75, K100, K1100, K1200 brick bikes used the same filter.

 

[lee]

Other options here.

I buy the MAHLE Original KL 145 Fuel Filter.

Instead of Amazon, let me recommend Beemer Boneyard. They're great to work with and the last time I checked they offer BMWMOA members a 10% discount.
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/16142325859.html

 

[Paul_F]

I agree. I thought all the K75, K100, K1100, K1200 brick bikes used the same filter.

As does my R1100RT.

Here are some alternate fuel filters although I've only tried the OEM and the NAPa filters
NAPA Gold 3032
Wix 33032 at CarQuest

 

[TechPoet]

Amazon says this (MAHLE Original KL 145 Fuel Filter) doesn't fit '93 K75S. But what do they know...

Is there a good site with part compatibility charts?

 

[timtyler]

The MAHLE Original KL 145 fits and is one of the better options given the high pressure fuel system on the K bikes.

 

[cy7878]

few hours more into it last night and here I am...


The question for all if since I don't have a lift. I don't have a wheel choke either. I made a box that is 9 inches in height and fairly sturdy and with 2x4s as support. What is the safest way to get the bike off the center stand without spending a lot of money on lifts to get to the gear box?

what have people done in this case?

 

[cy7878]

Your dealer parts guy is either lazy or not very skilled:


16 14 2 325 859 FUEL FILTER $35.22

I gave the parts lady the exact part number I copied down from A&S microfiche. She typed it into her system and said that part is no longer available. I ordered the Mehler one off amazon along with some Bosch plugs. It's all good, I hope...

 

[98lee]

Straps over the rafters attached to the rear frame or a sawhorse type support for the rear frame.

 

[98lee]

I gave the parts lady the exact part number I copied down from A&S microfiche. She typed it into her system and said that part is no longer available.

She goofed, unless you gave here the wrong number.

I just checked. There are 307 of them in the US warehouses (not counting what are on dealer shelves. Our dealer has 6.) and 2935 in the German warehouse with more on order.

 

[98lee]

That filter is used on virtually every BMW bike (except airheads and Rotax) from 1982 to 2004. They are not going to discontinue that.

 

[JamesInCA]

She goofed, unless you gave here the wrong number.

I just checked. There are 307 of them in the US warehouses (not counting what are on dealer shelves. Our dealer has 6.) and 2935 in the German warehouse with more on order.

Is that something normal humans can check? (I'm a bit miffed with my nearest dealer at the moment, who has nothing in stock and wants me to buy something else at twice the price instead. But that's for another thread.)

Meanwhile, is there any reason *not* to use the $5 NAPA 3032?