Getting ready for a trip to Idaho from North Dakota. Changed final drive oil and attempted to inspect and grease final drive splines and found the U joint rusted to the final drive input shaft. Trying to soak it overnight with Kroil penetrating fluid. Prying between the shaft and U joint didn't do the trick. Not feeling good about this. I guess my next move is to cut the gator off and try some heat on the U joint yoke. Being careful not to burn any seals. Any thoughts?
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2016 GS Drive Shaft Rusted to FD
- Thread starter bobgerman
- Start date
This problem has cropped up from time to time. Didn't say how many miles your bike has. If water gets past the rubber gator (which isn't hard to do) rust can quickly make disassembly a real problem. Several posts about it over on the R1200gs forum (https://www.r1200gs.info/forum/). I'd keep soaking it with penetrating fluid. Might take a day or two to soak enough to loosen. Do a search on the r1200 site and see what they came up with for the same issue.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c1_1gPRA274
Watch these videos by Boxflyer… this link is for part 2 of 6 parts that cover the full 12k service for the wet head R1200. The final drive is covered at the end of this one, and the first part of the next one. He shows how to separate the rusted spline and U-joint.
Cap
Watch these videos by Boxflyer… this link is for part 2 of 6 parts that cover the full 12k service for the wet head R1200. The final drive is covered at the end of this one, and the first part of the next one. He shows how to separate the rusted spline and U-joint.
Cap
In my view Boxflyer has done a tremendous service for wethead owners' wishing to do their own maintenance. I have the BMW service manual (DVD) and the Haynes manual, but these videos are the most useful. I usually watch them a couple of times before starting a periodic maintenance activity.
Boxflyer
Active member
Thanks!
Since the original 12k Maintenance series was completed, I've done almost 40 full services on RT's and GS/GSA's and have revised a few procedures and recommended lubricants.
I'm in the editing phase of a video about what's in my tool kit that I carry on the bike, and am about to start a YouTube video that covers just the process of removing the plastics to get to the air filter. I will be going a bit further after that video to change out my front shock since I think it is "sub-optimal" and will be replacing it with a low mileage OEM shock.
The next video I'm planning is going to be the compilation of revisions of technique and changes in fluids/lubricants that I've incorporated into the 12k Service...date TBA.
I also have a date firmed up with another rider that needs his first 12k service done on his 2019 R1250RT. He is going to allow me to use his bike long enough to film the process of the differences with the ShiftHead bodywork and specifically the Cam Timing checks/adjustments. I plan on digging into this engine to remove the cam bearing block so I can measure and record all the installed shims vs just check the clearances and close up the valve cover.
It's summer riding season, and I've already spent about 3 great weeks out in the Rockies riding with Cap, as well as I have 3 other weeks of organized rides/rallies I'm going to, so it will be a press getting all the filming/editing completed.
My first production run of fabricating the DIY Cam Chain Tensioner and the DIY TDC Tool was only 20 sets, and they are almost all sold, so I need to get back on the lathe to produce more.
Maybe I'll try to organize a local WetHead Tech Day near me while the weather is still warm here in Rhode Island.
Thanks again for the acknowledgement of something that I really enjoy doing...I like boosting the WetHead communities engagement with their bikes.
Boxflyer
(Brad)
Since the original 12k Maintenance series was completed, I've done almost 40 full services on RT's and GS/GSA's and have revised a few procedures and recommended lubricants.
I'm in the editing phase of a video about what's in my tool kit that I carry on the bike, and am about to start a YouTube video that covers just the process of removing the plastics to get to the air filter. I will be going a bit further after that video to change out my front shock since I think it is "sub-optimal" and will be replacing it with a low mileage OEM shock.
The next video I'm planning is going to be the compilation of revisions of technique and changes in fluids/lubricants that I've incorporated into the 12k Service...date TBA.
I also have a date firmed up with another rider that needs his first 12k service done on his 2019 R1250RT. He is going to allow me to use his bike long enough to film the process of the differences with the ShiftHead bodywork and specifically the Cam Timing checks/adjustments. I plan on digging into this engine to remove the cam bearing block so I can measure and record all the installed shims vs just check the clearances and close up the valve cover.
It's summer riding season, and I've already spent about 3 great weeks out in the Rockies riding with Cap, as well as I have 3 other weeks of organized rides/rallies I'm going to, so it will be a press getting all the filming/editing completed.
My first production run of fabricating the DIY Cam Chain Tensioner and the DIY TDC Tool was only 20 sets, and they are almost all sold, so I need to get back on the lathe to produce more.
Maybe I'll try to organize a local WetHead Tech Day near me while the weather is still warm here in Rhode Island.
Thanks again for the acknowledgement of something that I really enjoy doing...I like boosting the WetHead communities engagement with their bikes.
Boxflyer
(Brad)
I still don't understand how you can perform motorcycle service wearing light coloured shirts. I have to wear black or very dark coloured shirts because I always seem to get a bit of grease or dirt from the bikes on my shirt - even after cleaning the bikes before service 
[Obviously the bikes are not clean enough!]
[Obviously the bikes are not clean enough!]When I had my shop I had a friend stop by and use the shop if I had room. He showed up one day in a suit and tie and asked if he could slap in a set for front brake pads in his car. I told him to go ahead. He laid his jacket in the car, stuffed his necktie inside his shirt and went to work. When he got done his white dress shirt was spotless. I can't walk out of the house in a white shirt without getting it dirty!
Update.
The machine has 40,000 on it. I made the decision to remove the final drive assembly and the drive shaft. The u joint is being very stubborn. I made the command decision to cut off the gator as to be able to get some heat on the yoke rusted to the FD input shaft. With moderate heat, careful not to cook the grease out of the u joint, the yoke will not budge. I drove a small chisel between the input shaft shoulder and the yoke and got some movement maybe 1 or 2 mm. It stopped. It's still soaking in Kroil. I appreciate everyone's ideas, especially the video about servicing. Tempted to cut the yoke off and buy a new driveshaft. I don't want to damage the FD.
More to come
The machine has 40,000 on it. I made the decision to remove the final drive assembly and the drive shaft. The u joint is being very stubborn. I made the command decision to cut off the gator as to be able to get some heat on the yoke rusted to the FD input shaft. With moderate heat, careful not to cook the grease out of the u joint, the yoke will not budge. I drove a small chisel between the input shaft shoulder and the yoke and got some movement maybe 1 or 2 mm. It stopped. It's still soaking in Kroil. I appreciate everyone's ideas, especially the video about servicing. Tempted to cut the yoke off and buy a new driveshaft. I don't want to damage the FD.
More to come
https://blasterproducts.com/product/pb-blaster-penetrant/
I read an article recently about this old family-owned company in the Midwest somewhere that made this rust dissolver stuff… P’Blaster or PB Blaster…. Anyway, I recently spotted it for sale locally, and I bought a can just in case I ever had a situation like yours. Worth a try.
Cap
I read an article recently about this old family-owned company in the Midwest somewhere that made this rust dissolver stuff… P’Blaster or PB Blaster…. Anyway, I recently spotted it for sale locally, and I bought a can just in case I ever had a situation like yours. Worth a try.
Cap
bigjohnsd
'21 R1250 GS Adv
This many page thread over on AdV Rider is worthy of your review: https://advrider.com/f/threads/r120...ive-change-and-spline-lube-pictorial.1129815/ all of the issues discussed above have been covered ad infinitum.
Yikes. Just read the last page… page 85!
Success!
After soaking the splines with Kroil for several hours, the small movement provided a opportunity to slide the u joint back down a couple on mm. An hour or so of moving it back and forth finally released the splines. The chisel trick worked! Thank you for all the input.
After soaking the splines with Kroil for several hours, the small movement provided a opportunity to slide the u joint back down a couple on mm. An hour or so of moving it back and forth finally released the splines. The chisel trick worked! Thank you for all the input.
akbeemer
SURVIVOR
Good! Any pictures? Before and after would be interesting.
New discovery!
More information! I'm preparing for a trip to Dead Horse. Thought I would check the driveshaft and replace it with serviceable unit. During this process I discovered the original factory driveshaft is approximately 45 deg. out of timing. I will attempt to add a picture to this post. The problem is very clear.
More information! I'm preparing for a trip to Dead Horse. Thought I would check the driveshaft and replace it with serviceable unit. During this process I discovered the original factory driveshaft is approximately 45 deg. out of timing. I will attempt to add a picture to this post. The problem is very clear.
Attachments
bigjohnsd
'21 R1250 GS Adv
What is the source of the replacement shaft?
lkraus
New member
Please let us know what differences (if any) you notice while riding with the new shaft.
The replacement driveshaft shown above appears to be a rebuildable unit from Ei as sold by Ted Porter's Beemershop (image below).
https://www.beemershop.com/product/driveshaft-rebuildable-for-r1200-models-with-22-splines-copy.html
I installed a similar unit on my R100GS/PD a while back. I found my OEM driveshaft to be out-of-phase with respect to the u-joint alignment. Out-of-phase u-joints cause more riding vibration and perhaps stress on the driveshaft. Anton and Snowbum have more info on driveshafts -
http://www.largiader.com/articles/driveshaft/
http://largiader.com/gs/shaft.html
https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/phasing.htm
https://www.beemershop.com/product/driveshaft-rebuildable-for-r1200-models-with-22-splines-copy.html
I installed a similar unit on my R100GS/PD a while back. I found my OEM driveshaft to be out-of-phase with respect to the u-joint alignment. Out-of-phase u-joints cause more riding vibration and perhaps stress on the driveshaft. Anton and Snowbum have more info on driveshafts -
http://www.largiader.com/articles/driveshaft/
http://largiader.com/gs/shaft.html
https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/phasing.htm
In the 40,000 miles, how did the driveline run? I can’t picture it contributed to the trouble in removing the shaft?
Is there a chance the new shaft came shipped in the condition/orientation it is supposed to be in?
I have changed a lot of u-joints, never on a motorcycle. It always takes me a while to be satisfied with the feel of articulation of my repair.
I don’t know much about “phasing” but it seems to be a factor of some sort. I maybe have skipped the whole “phasing” deal as I seem to put index marks on components like a driveshaft so it goes back together as it came apart.
OM
